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Help Tranny And Clutch Problem

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Old 11-19-05, 06:15 AM
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Help Tranny And Clutch Problem

here is what happened my car sat a while and the slave cylinder was leaking i rebuilt it and the master cylinder put it on, started bleeding the system and all of a sudden no pressure noting a fly could push this thing WTF?????????? well i started looking and the clutch fork for the throwout bearing is wiggly all the time, now i thought there was spring to hold when the clutch pedal was not depressed so it pulled the bearing off the prssure plate, i need to know what i need to do i thiink i need to drop the tranny and check out the bell housing and find out whats the deal with the fork and then rebleed everything sombody lease help. need some advice quick i want to get this thing on the road thanks in advance
Old 11-19-05, 01:54 PM
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i'm going to assume here that you pumped the clutch pedal enough to build up the pressure..currently I have a leaking slave cylinder, it loses pressure in a few hours and in order for me to get it back to normal I have to pump the clutch pedal for a few minutes..I hope your issure is that simple
Old 11-19-05, 01:56 PM
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How "wiggly"? As I recollect from installing the slave, there is a little wiggle and it's a trick to get the slave pushrod seated right in the dimple in the release fork. When I failed to get it seated right there was no back pressure. And I think I jumped to the same wrong conclusion about the pushrod fork being loose: guess I couldn't believe I missed the dimple. Or didn't want to believe it. But I removed and re-installed the slave and it's been OK for 3 years. I'd sure hate to have to drop the transmission to fix it.

Bleeding the clutch hydraulics is another problem. You can go to the autostore and get a $45 pressure bleeding kit, or you can look for $10 Speed Bleeders which replace the OEM nipple and have a check valve, or you can look around here for some good ideas. There was a thread a couple months ago and, true to form, the FB guys had a competition for the easiest and cheapest way to power bleed.
Old 11-19-05, 03:30 PM
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well the push rod is in place and its REALLY wiggly, im talking not just a jiggle but like a inch of play. i have to do some stuff under the car so i might drop the bell housing just in case. but in order to drop it i have to take off the slave cylinder, so ill check it first, thanks for the help and if any body has any more suggestoins lets hear them, ill let you know how it goes.
Old 11-19-05, 04:24 PM
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Is the push rod fully extending when the pedal is pushed? Can you pull the fork forward, if so how much? It should not move forward much at all. Also will the fork wiggle from side to side, does it feel real loose? If that is the case, it may not be mounted on the pivot ball or the pivot ball could be worn or broken.

Since the pedal stays down, my vote is for a rebleed. If that doesn't work, have fun with the tranny.
Old 11-19-05, 04:42 PM
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no its not moving side to side but front to back alot. and no the pushrod will not extend out with one press of the pedal, somthing is fishy with the hydralics and the tranny i think. im going to drop the tranny to double check and also i am going to buy a new slave and master cylinder im tired of screwing around i just want it fixed, since i got my car running now, i want to drive it something awful.
Old 11-19-05, 07:24 PM
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Okay, I just finished replacing my slave an hour ago (can't wait to drive it again without that burning hydraulics smell). When I first installed it, everything was seated (lots of skinned knuckles getting it in there) but after bleeding I had the same problem. The pedal didn't want to come up from the floor, and I had lots of play between the pushrod and the throwout lever. So I pulled the thing out, thinking I must've gotten the wrong part.

The first thing I noticed was how short the pushrod was. Like it was compressed. I tried pulling it out, but it wouldn't budge. Something was wrong, because when I played with it earlier, it wouldn't stay compressed. Now it wouldn't uncompress.

I hopped in the car and pulled up the clutch pedal, then pushed it down. The pushrod popped out. Good as new. I reinstalled it and the clutch worked perfectly. What I figured out, compressing the pushrod with the hydraulic line attached locks it there. Bleeding wouldn't extend it--path of least resistance was the bleed valve. All I had to do was push the pedal down ONCE with the valve closed and I wouldn't have had a problem. Live and learn.
Old 11-19-05, 08:07 PM
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nickj,

That sounds familiar to me.
Old 11-20-05, 06:44 AM
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the thing is there is absolutly zero pedal pressure !!!! the fork i know is not right and once you get alittle pedal back, you can push the pedal in and then by hand with the pedal down you can push the pushrod back in to the slave cylinder. cant be good. i have had some many problems withthe clutch hydraulics i think im going to get new stuff
Old 11-20-05, 03:02 PM
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I could definitely wiggle the fork with the slave cylinder out. That's to be expected. Fork travel is limited by the pressure plate in one direction, the slave pushrod in the other. With the slave out, forward travel's limited only by the hole in the bell housing.

So I think you're right. If you can compress the slave with the hydraulic line attached, it can't be good. A new slave should do the trick.
Old 11-20-05, 03:40 PM
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well problem solved on this one. the spring that holds the fork to where once you let of it returns was screwed up. it soe how had popped out of its spot in the fork. i just drped the tranny only took about a hour and then i looked in and there it was sticking out to the side dont ask how but i pushed it in and the fork will return to its right spot now. but im still going to have to get new hydralics for the whole clutch system. ive tried rebuilding them both twice and still not working so instead of wasting the money and worry about them im just getting new ones but thanks for the response from everyone robert
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