I washed my whole engine and like a dumb a** i played with the fuel and air screws... now the car doesn't pull after 5k.. if i close both of them (turn them right) how many turn i need to go back to make her run good again? Btw the air one is the big screw on top and the fuel one the one right below the other one right?

THx!

 

3 turns will do it, 2.5 a bit better (the easy screw on the left). Then adjust the idle (the one on the right) to suite your mood.

 

3 turns for both screws?? which one is the idle one?

Thx!

 

The hard one to get to, the one on the right, is the idle. Turn that guy in all the way till you get things started. The easy one on the left needs to be about 3 turns out.

 

Ok i did it 2.5 turns and idles at 850ish now. Not sure how it pulls cuz since i changed the shifter bearings my whole shifter is out. I will try the car when i put the shifter back.

Now.. when i rev it up and the revs go down passing 2.5k starts misfiring making the whole car to rattle/shake. Ir let's say when i live the car revving the car at 3k flat..it misfire too!!

I already got NGK plugs and wires.. any solution??

 

Sounds like you may have water in the ignition system. Pull the rotor cap and dry it out. Carb manual says 3-1/2 turns out for mixture screw.

 

Sorry to sound noob but which one is the rotor cap?? 3-1/2 turns on which screw. Looking from the driver side, under the carb i see a big screw and right below it, a small screw..which is what?? thx!

 

The mixture screws should not have any effect above about 2k; they're only for idle. The distributer cap is what he means by rotor cap (the rotor is the part that spins inside, so rotor cap is technically correct too). It's black, located on the front LHS (driver's side) of the engine, and has all the spark wires plugged into it.

 

I've done that yesterday.. cleaned it with gas and then dried it up. Any other ideas??

 

generally the best way to adjust the idle is to pull both screws out about 3 turns and adjust the air screw (the big one) first until you get the proper idle rpm (which it sounds like you've done already). Out (counterclockwise) increases the idle, in decreases. Once the speed is adjusted for, slowly screw in the mixture screw (the smaller one) clockwise until it starts to stumble a little, and then back it out half a turn. There was a post by Stirling that said basically the same thing, but I can't find it right now.

Be careful not to tighten them up too much when you bottom them out. Screw them in until they seat gently.

 

I was in the middle of writing that last post when you responded. Was it yesterday when you washed the engine bay? (I'm trying to gauge if it's already had a chance to dry out). If you've already looked over the wires, and the cap/rotor are both clean, dry, and not worn down, the next area to look at would be the points if you still have them. Don't start adjusting them if you don't have the proper feeler gauges! Just make sure they're dry.

 

ok ima try that tomorrow.. once i get the idle i will play with the small screw.. one i see the engine starts to shake that means it need more mixture, so like you said fro there half turn back. But i still think there must be something wrong.

The 3 diagrams from the carb i took them out to see if the idle would change but nothing happen, i wonder if they're working good. I'm thinking i may need a carb rebuild.

 

AAS is "Air Adjust Screw"; MAS is "Mix Adjust Screw"

For 79-80; later carbs had differences.

 

Dear god that carb is delicious!

 

Follow Sterling's very detailed instructions to adjust the carb: http://sterlingmetalworks.com/tuning_the_nikki.htm

But I agree that it sounds like you got something wet that you shouldn't have....


.

 

Yeah ima have to sit and read carefully.. it's a long read. Where can i get my carb rebuild and for how much?

 

I'd get the rebuild from DD, his came out real good:



Or, you can get the sorensen rebuild kit at autozone for about $25, if you do it yourself it will be for free but the blue powder coat will cost you extra.

 

How much are you paying to get it rebuild? yeah that blue coat looks sick!

 

Ray's pullin your leg; I did the rebuild myself, using the Sorensen kit and a lot of Berryman's & elbow grease. And I used the Mazda carb manual rather than the instructions that come with the kit - - much more detailed. Replaced all the factory screws with stainless Allen-head screws, too.

The blue coat is actually a specific kind of clear rattlecan paint, sprayed over stripped/buffed metal. Looks like anodizing. Stands up to fuel & heat real well, but it does scratch easy.

I'm too damn cheap for real anodizing, heh.

 

i was planning on doing the same thing except in purple haha now if my rebuild get would get here

 

I think i could try doing it myself..where can i get that rebuild kit from?

 

Bought mine at Autozone.

 

Cool thx!