Shelby117

as the header says all 4 oil inj lines melt'd off, completely under the intake, melt'd to the outter edge of the intake,, no fuel leaks no electrical shorts, this was some time ago, i have no history on the engine
pic are here
>http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/she...c=ph%26.view=t

come on guys help an old timer out, i may be new here but i have over 20k posts on 5 other boards, so i know how much work it s to read and reply to post's and questions
thanks

rhinor61

Damn dude that is one hell of a dirty engine.

So what is your question?

kettlman

iTrader: (2)

yeah, what is your question? looks like its been sitting for awhile.a long while.



late

Shelby117

humm well what your seeing is fire ext stuff,, if you 'l look at the pic you'l see no oil inj line,s they are melt'd that was the fire , the oil lines alone burnt, nothing else , no fuel leaks no electrical shorts, nothing, could the engine have gotten that hot, if it had fuel in the oil would it start to burn in the intake and back up into the lines out side, as you see all 4 lines burnt, even after they branch'd off, all the way to the nozels , like i said this was 4 yr's ago and no history other then he said it quit while driveing , so i know thats not true, i found one trailing igniter bad
it fires up but gets the plugs wet , good thing it don't run with no oilers huh

fatboy7

My guess is that there was an engine fire of some sort. Looks like you need new oil injector lines. Checkout Mazdatrix.com they have those

bliffle

In the meantime, premix MMO or 2-cycle in your gas.

F

Shelby117

thanks , yes i understand that i'l need to install new oil lines, but is there any spacific thing i need to be looking for in reguards to over heat'd engine , what is the normal damage done to these from over heating , and i mean very much over heat'd from the looks of things , is there any other place for coolant to get into the cyl area other then the intake o-rings
sorry for the maybe simple question s but it's been 10 yr's sence i was thru one of these things and then it was to replace an ATK block
just trying to get an idea if this engine is worth saveing , if it's junk, then throwing 200 or 300 into it is a waste of time

fatboy7

It would take serious heat to melt those lines. Heat usually makes them brittle, not soft. Like I said, I suspect an engine fire.

If the engine has been really overheated it probably isn't worth saving, because it will require almost all new housings to rebuild. Coolant can get into the combustion chamber through the water seals that are between the rotor and side housings. If it was overheated baddly the water seals are probably toast, and the engine will burn coolant (white smoke) on startup, the oil seal o-rings would also potientially be toast.

Shelby117

understood on the internal seals,, but the tricky part is this wasn't any fuel fire,, i've been turning wrenches for over 40 yr's and have seen more then my share of fuel relate'd and electrical fires and this was neather
thanks for the responces

79+80+84_rx-7

what if..... the injectors were leaking gas through bad o-rings on the injectors... andit leaked, maybe dripped down the line till the engine or somthing caught it on fire, and it just melted those lines?!


who knows?!


I would premix with 2 cycle...


if you put water in it, and let it sit for a few hours, then start it, and it poooooooors white smoke out, then dont **** with it.... if it doesnt smoke, then its good..... you might want to put someATF in the motor.... like down the intake to carbon clean it.....


anyways, laters

Keaponlaffen

put some atf in the washer fluid, radiator fluid, in the gas tank, in the tranny, in the rear ends, in the power steering fluid (if applicable), in the engine oil, and also pour it into every orifice on the engine (spark plug holes, etc). Might even want to put some in a grease gun and lube up all your grease zirks.... this should fix everything that was ever wrong/ever will go wrong in your car...

"Against the overuse of ATF" lol....

79+80+84_rx-7

do you like jacking off to the idea of you being an ***?


heh..... I use it properly and find EXTREMLY GREAT RESULTS..... ever have seals rusted shut? on a high milage junk yard motor that sat for about- years? I have..... just atf the fucked, break it loose, let it sit for about 30 hours, go pull start it, then run the **** out of it.... "wala" good running high compression 12a......







oh well.... you can just blow it out yer ***.....

pratch

Right, but you're suggesting ATFing an engine without knowing if anything is wrong. Great way to foul up plugs for no good reason. Had he said "I have an Rx-7 and the engine doesn't turn", I don't think anyone would jump on you for your suggestion. But to toss it in there with the premix suggestion takes solid advice and mixes it with shitty advice.

No worries at all, I just don't think you should have offered the ATF in this post.

There's no reason to suspect an overheated with melted oil lines per se. The only way to be certain is to tear down the engine and until you've exhausted the standard getting-your-car-running steps (which it looks like you're doing just fine), there's no reason to suggest a rebuild just to find out that you can't put it back together.

My 1st engine was overheated at about 90K miles. It lasted just fine to 152K before giving up the ghost. YMMV, SPSFD.

79+80+84_rx-7

flooding...... just was suggesting low compression.......




anyways, it will gain more power.... since its flooded..... and yep..... if you want, you can delete the ******* post....

Shelby117

ok more info thanks, looks like it'l be pull the lower intake reseal the o-rings and do a cooling system pressure test to verify the internal seals , right
i'm asumeing the seals will show up on a pressure test of the radiator
as i said i have been a mechanic for a long long time , and have use'd atf for many things , and have a fair idea of where to and when not to ,
but the same advice given to some young kid that didn't know better it could cause some serious problems, and wouldn't that be nice ,
any way just looking for some good advice on what to do and where to go, straight answers and sound advice just as you'd get on the sites i normaly monitor , you stop by one of our Conquest /Starion sites and if you don't get the same treatment let me know , it will be correct'd

FJ

I wouldn't pull the lower intake. I've just read your other post where the o-rings were suggested but they responded before you had mentioned fuel injecters. The 13B (injected engine) does not have o-rings between the manifold and housings. The holes are blocked off from the factory, so if you have coolant in the engine it means a rebuild as there is no other way for coolant to get in other than the water seals.

If it starts, I doubt it's fuel that you see on the plugs. The wet plugs would indeed suggest leaking water seals.
The pressure test would likely indicate bad water seals if there are no external leaks, but the best bet is to get it running and see if it persistently exhausts white smoke after a cold start. Also, leave the rad cap off when the engine is cold and start it. Once the thermostat opens, look for bubbles in the rad. Increase the rpm to 2000 or so while watching.
If it has started and the plugs are getting wet from coolant, you may not need it running to check: leave the cap off and crank it. If the seals are that bad, you may see coolant gush out just while turning it over.

I'm sure the lines wouldn't have melted from overheating. And fire caused by the oil lines would be a first for everybody here, I believe. You might remove the plastic cover on the pulsation damper on the front of the fuel rail. When they leak the small screw in the middle of the diaphragm is usually loose or has fallen out.

You mentioned you were told it died while driving and you had found a bad trailing igniter: generally, a rotary will run without trailing plugs but on an '84/'85 model, lack of the trailing coil signal will cause the ECU to turn off the fuel pump. If it started you must have replaced the igniter; if there's any doubt about the pump running you can jump the fuel pump test connector to run it while troubleshooting. (A white connector in a black rubber boot near the air filter.)

I imagine you've capped the two nipples on each of the four oil injectors? (Can't tell from the pic if the vacuum lines are intact but may as well cap the injector ends and the nipple on the intake at the other end of the vacuum line.) The open oil lines would cause a major vacuum leak, of course. Certainly enough to prevent idling and it may be why it won't stay running, if you haven't capped them.

You had mentioned compression in the other thread: compression can be decent even with bad water seals so that doesn't help to narrow it down, unfortunately.

-John.

Shelby117

John thank you very much for your reply, you just help'd me make up my mind on the block, i'l have to get with my son in law and see if he wants to go for a use'd engine , he pick'd this up for his daughter as a first car , you sound very knowelgeable about these cars,, any chance the rear pig will fit into a 82 626 banjo houseing , the 81 & 82 were the last yr for the rear whl drive 626
from another post i see the GS diff should handle 250 -275 hp , if so the 4.07 gears would be just the thing for a auto tranny toy i have , but the RX7 banjo houseing looks to be very weak to use as a leaf spring rear , but the 626 banjo looks much stronger and is a leaf rear spring already
thanks

FJ

Sorry, I only know the basics about differentials. Can't help you there.

-John.

fatboy7

According to Felix's Mazda Rotary Parts Interchange, you can swap the pumpkin from the 7, if the year is 83 or newer. The 84-85 year RX-7s had larger axles, and won't fit. Unfortunately in your case, you have an -SE, so you have the larger axles -- the pumpkins won't swap. I'm sure though if you were to sell it, you could get some decent cash. The -SE rear-end swap is very popular here.