This'll be long...

So, I've been working on my 85 GS off and on for the last 8 years. The car was my father in laws that he owned since 2 years old. It was just about to return to the earth from whence it came, massive rust issues (I think I have an old thread on here with pics), redid all rear control arm mounts, rear inner wheel wells, rockers, fenders, floors, everything. Hundreds of hours in body work with my dad, who's patience and skill with a mig far exceeds mine.

Unfortunately, at the ripe age of 62, he had a massive stroke. He's still alive today (about 15 months on), and doing ok, though he has some significant disabilities. I'd really like to get this car back on the road this summer and take him for a ride. I've wrapped up all remaining body work, redone the brakes, suspension, etc, but have a few lingering and incredibly annoying issues:

1) Clutch slave. I noticed the one on the car was leaking, so I threw in a new one. Used a vacuum bleeder, but fluid blew past the seals and filled the boot. Ok, maybe I got a bad slave, they're cheap, ordered another one & installed today. Nope, same issue. It seems like the clutch arm is too far away from the slave, if that makes sense, so the piston overextends and breaks the seal. Is my clutch arm broken? Clutch rusted in the engaged position?

2) Carb issues. Pulled off rats nest, installed rebuilt (by my very experienced mechanic buddy, going off racing beat rebuild kit & instructions) RB prepped holley 465. I know, there are better carbs, and I'm looking for a weber setup, but I just want to get it running. Installed 6-10psi pump & regulator, set to 6psi. Here are the symptoms:

Start car, runs up around 3-3500 rpm, and hangs there for a while. As it warms up, idle drops, and it'll die without input from me. If I tap the gas, it'll go back up to 3500+ rpm and hang for a bit. Seems sort of like it's not getting enough vacuum, but I have all lines either in place or plugged.

Again, apologize for the length of the post. Not looking to come off w/some kind of sob story, but I really want to get this little lady back on the road this summer. Any and all help would be appreciated.

 

Picture bomb incoming:

When I first got it, not so bad right?



After digging in a bit, bad news:

 

In process:






And, most recently:


As of this morning:

 

Sounds like the choke on the holley isnt giving. This means it starting up is normal, but the thing that made it start well is an overly rich mixture, which it doesnt need after a while. The choke should be automatic with an RB 465, meaning that the choke plate should be slowly opening from the bi metallic spring in the choke housing. Its
heated up via a copper tube wrapped around the header or exhaust mani.

If it doesnt heat up, the choke will remain "full choke" resulting in a super high fast idle speed, that will never step down the choke cam. It will also be far too rich for an engine at normal operating temperatures, essentially choking it to death.

If its electric, make sure its getting 12 volts while the engine is running.

If its manual, (converted) install a choke cable haha.

 

Also, your clutch fork and cup could be bent!! I had this on my 84 SE. Tear down revealed a tiny crack in it that let it slowly bend on every operation over probably thousands of miles.

 

Thanks, I'll play around with the choke (automatic, mechanical), though I think the issue seems like its not pulling enough vacuum to get fuel out of the idle jets.

Question, last night it struck me that the rod on the slave just passes through the hole on the clutch fork - it's not captured in any way. Is there supposed to be some sort of retainer on the clutch fork to hold the slave in place? Could possibly be my issue if so.

 

Anyone have any ideas on the clutch? Can anyone take a picture of their slave/clutch area so I can compare? I'm about ready to jump out a window on this, and I'm just so damn close to getting it running.

 

Uhhhh im 99% sure thats not normal. Let me go look at mine.

 

From what you described its actually getting too much, drowning the engine. That choke plate should be opening via the vac pulloff (built in to that choke) to slip the plate open enough not to kill the engine. Have you stood over the carb and observed choke plate operation when you start it? My guess is that it stays fully closed and might crack open just enough to let you start it...

 

Yes, thats whats wrong with your clucth lol. It shouldnt pass through the fork cup. You need a new one it sounds like.

 

Yeah, when the slave cylinder doesn't have any resistance, it will push all the way out, that is why you were thinking the new one was bad. You'll have to either replace the clutch fork or weld the hole closed. Good luck, looks like a nice car and you've done a great job on the repairs. Most guys would have trashed the car and gotten a roller. I commend you for sticking with it. My bin rust repair job is looming and I have yet to learn how to weld. Mine isn't quite as bad as yours was though.

 

Are you sure you don't have the rod backwards?

 

This was it. I haven't had too many moments working on cars where I've literally slapped my forehead for something this dumb, and I think this makes up for it.

Sigh. Thanks! Will mess around with the carb a bit more this weekend and report back.