Hey guys, im kinda stuck right now because I began changing my rear brake pads, I can't get the caliper off.

A) as pictured, I've unscrewed the bottom bolt and it allows the caliper to move from the lower side, but the top half is stuck.

B) Also, it seems that the E-Brake cable doesn't let it move.

How do I change the rear brake pads?

Help much appreciated since im standing outside

 

whats unscrewed...

 

release the parking brake with wheel chocks on the tires and you should be able to push the p-brake lever in and pull the it out of the slot. at least that is what i see.

 

The handbrake is off, the cable moves, but not far enough to be unclipped from the caliper.

 

can you rotate the caliper forward then try to pull the handbrake out? if not you may have to adjust out the screw on the handle in the car to the point where it will come off.

 

The p-brake cable has two locking nuts right under the caliper. Loosen those up and the cable should come off. Then you should be able to swing the caliper up to replace the pads. Make sure the top pivot point is well lubed before installing new pads.

 

guess it helps to have advise from someone with rear discs, eh? lol.

 

Okay, problem PART II

The new pads are on , the cable dillema is resolved. I can't put the caliper back on because the piston is sticking out. How do i get it to retract?

I tried clamping it, with an opened fluid reservoir but it doesn't want to give in.

What to do???

 

open the bleed valve and releave the pressure? i know you have to be careful not to pop out the other side while pressing in one.

 

Do I really have to bleed it out ???

 

Well... Bleeding some of it off, still can't depress the piston....

 

Yeah, it can be a little tricky getting the cable off. Have fun.

As for forcing the caliper piston back, heres how I do it:

Get a clear tube(~30inches?) that will fit on the bleeder nipple and the wrench to loosen it. Then Run the tube up from the nipple and then down to a bucket. Loosen the bleeder nipple. Next Take a large channel locks or plyers and turn the caliper pistion clockwise. This is how it is forced in. Its hard to do, but is how you do it. Anyway, when its forced far enough back, be sure that tube has filled with brake fluid thats directly above the bleeder nipple and there is no air in it. Then you simply tighten it and reinstall the caliper, parking brake line and such.

This method requires no help from anybody to bleed out air since the tube retains the fluid out of the nipple and then you tighten it and no air can get in.

 

Okay, I installed the pads, everything is in and everything is tightened. However, I think air somehow got into the system, because now the pedal is REAL mushy and the brakes are barely working.

What do I do now ?

BTW. This was the biggest pain in the *** to do, my subaru and nissan are 20 minute snap

 

Well if you force the caliper back without opening the bleeder, you will force back crud that builds up inside of the piston of the caliper. Thus may require taking the master cylinder off and fully clean it/rebuild it, full system bleeding. I've decided that anytime you force a caliper, always open the bleeder while you do it...and when tightening it, be sure that you apply a little pressure to the caliper piston(as your tightening) so air does not get sucked in.

Now it sounds like you have either forced crud up the lines into the master cylinder or there is air in the system. Bleed it, if very little comes out, it probably means you got crud in the master cylinder now. Have fun(rolling eyes).

 

I thought the rear calipers have to be screwed in... verses forced...

 

I guess you didn't read my first post in this thread.

 

plus... if your brake are mushy, you have air in the system, you'll have to bleed them... easier to do with someone to pump the brake pedal while you work the bleeder valve... I ususally use a hose attached to the bleeder and run it into a small container of brake fluid and bleed until I don't see any more bubbles

 

yeah... I got as far as channel locks.. my bad...

I have a little cube shaped tool made by Lisle that fits on the end of a 3/8 extension... much easier than pliers

 

'Doh!

This is where I got air into the system.

After I got the calipers on, I just tightened the bleeder valves and refilled the fluid reservoir with some new fluid.

Doh.

 

What do I do to fix the problem? Should I open bleeder valves one at a time or both at once and watch until the air bubbles disappear from the fluid coming out?

 

find a partner to dohcee doh and have them pump the brake pedal a few times then hold it while you open the bleeder, then close the bleeder and they can stop holding the pedal. repeat until fluid is the only thing coming out. start at the driver's front and work to the passenger rear. also make sure and check the mc often so you don't start sucking air.