Help with camera mounting needed
05-20-03, 09:48 AM
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Help with camera mounting needed
Any ideas about how/where to mount a video camera inside my '85 without doing permanent damage? I have no harness bar or other mounting surface at this time. Thanks for the ideas.
05-20-03, 10:38 AM
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Stablitiy (camera vibration) might be the only problem so you might want to come up with some sort of outrigger set up to add some stability. The hole thing can then just be turned out of the flange and removed for your hot date after the race...
Good luck
Anthrax
Good luck
Anthrax
05-20-03, 02:06 PM
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Home Depot for parts, four drilled holes, installation is done, looks like it will work well. Added a floor mount to the top, also, to mount the camera on. With shims to bridge the gap between the tunnel and floor mount, it doesn't seem to need additional support. All for less than $10. Thanks again!
05-20-03, 03:23 PM
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Can you post some pictures. I was thinking about maybe making a mount that hung from the latch on the roof( I take my roof off to autocross). I don't know if it would swing back and forth though.
05-20-03, 03:31 PM
#7
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im am in the process of developing a 1 piece tripod videocamer mount that requires no drilling...
the prototype is 50% complete..
i will keep you guys updated..
-greg
the prototype is 50% complete..
i will keep you guys updated..
-greg
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05-20-03, 07:25 PM
#9
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easy way- mount a tripod to a harness bar
ioport has them and camera mounts but are way too pricey, build your own and be happier
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...oduct_Code=GB3
ioport has them and camera mounts but are way too pricey, build your own and be happier
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...oduct_Code=GB3
05-20-03, 08:05 PM
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$10 to $15 camera mount that you can do yourself.
OK, Anthrax was correct, I did need to add support to eliminate vibration. Now, it's rock solid. Take a look at the picture to see the finished project.
This isn't rocket science, so I feel a little strange detailing the thing, but here it is.
_________________________________
Parts:
- 12" length of 1/2" pipe
- 8" length of 1/2" pipe
- One 1/2" pipe coupler
- Two 1/2" floor mounts
- About 6' of 1/2" aluminum tube or something similar (mine came off a junk playpen, of all things)
- One U-bolt with nuts
- Four bolts, washers, nuts to attach base to tunnel
- Two self-tapping hex-head screws to mount struts to trim screw holes
- Misc. washers to level the base on the tunnel
- Self-adhesive Velcro hook and loop
First, you'll need to mount one floor plate with the 4 bolts, between the center console and storage bins. Level with necessary washers.
Pre-assemble the remaining pipe components, tightly, and then thread the assembly into the floor mount with only a half turn or so past hand tight. This will allow you to remove the camera mount without removing the floor mount every time. Be sure to orient the top floor mount so that on of the bolt holes faces the front of the car. This hole will be used to mount the camera.
Stick one side of the Velcro to the top floor mount. The remaining piece sticks to the underside of your camera to prevent camera rotation during hard driving. Also, if you are using this device in a non-street application, you may be required to (and should anyway) use an additional nylon strap to secure the camera to the mount.
Determine the required length of each aluminum strut, creating a flattened, bent flange on each end through which you will drill mounting holes.
Follow the picture to finish up.
_________________________________
The whole thing took about 90 minutes with simple tools like a vice, a drill, a grinder to clean up the cut and formed struts, a screwdriver, and a socket set. I also had to get under the car to access the underside of the tunnel.
It's easy to install and remove, doesn't really invade the rear cargo area, allows access to both storage bins, is rock solid, and is asthetically passable. And yes, you can do it for $10 to $15.
Have fun!
Mike
_____________
'85 GSL
Going to Grattan on
OK, Anthrax was correct, I did need to add support to eliminate vibration. Now, it's rock solid. Take a look at the picture to see the finished project.
This isn't rocket science, so I feel a little strange detailing the thing, but here it is.
_________________________________
Parts:
- 12" length of 1/2" pipe
- 8" length of 1/2" pipe
- One 1/2" pipe coupler
- Two 1/2" floor mounts
- About 6' of 1/2" aluminum tube or something similar (mine came off a junk playpen, of all things)
- One U-bolt with nuts
- Four bolts, washers, nuts to attach base to tunnel
- Two self-tapping hex-head screws to mount struts to trim screw holes
- Misc. washers to level the base on the tunnel
- Self-adhesive Velcro hook and loop
First, you'll need to mount one floor plate with the 4 bolts, between the center console and storage bins. Level with necessary washers.
Pre-assemble the remaining pipe components, tightly, and then thread the assembly into the floor mount with only a half turn or so past hand tight. This will allow you to remove the camera mount without removing the floor mount every time. Be sure to orient the top floor mount so that on of the bolt holes faces the front of the car. This hole will be used to mount the camera.
Stick one side of the Velcro to the top floor mount. The remaining piece sticks to the underside of your camera to prevent camera rotation during hard driving. Also, if you are using this device in a non-street application, you may be required to (and should anyway) use an additional nylon strap to secure the camera to the mount.
Determine the required length of each aluminum strut, creating a flattened, bent flange on each end through which you will drill mounting holes.
Follow the picture to finish up.
_________________________________
The whole thing took about 90 minutes with simple tools like a vice, a drill, a grinder to clean up the cut and formed struts, a screwdriver, and a socket set. I also had to get under the car to access the underside of the tunnel.
It's easy to install and remove, doesn't really invade the rear cargo area, allows access to both storage bins, is rock solid, and is asthetically passable. And yes, you can do it for $10 to $15.
Have fun!
Mike
_____________
'85 GSL
Going to Grattan on
Last edited by GlobalSport; 05-20-03 at 08:28 PM.
05-20-03, 08:05 PM
#11
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$10 to $15 camera mount that you can do yourself.
OK, Anthrax was correct, I did need to add support to eliminate vibration. Now, it's rock solid. Take a look at the picture to see the finished project.
This isn't rocket science, so I feel a little strange detailing the thing, but here it is.
_________________________________
Parts:
- 12" length of 1/2" pipe
- 8" length of 1/2" pipe
- One 1/2" pipe coupler
- Two 1/2" floor mounts
- About 6' of 1/2" aluminum tube or something similar (mine came off a junk playpen, of all things)
- One U-bolt with nuts
- Four bolts, washers, nuts to attach base to tunnel
- Two self-tapping hex-head screws to mount struts to trim screw holes
- Misc. washers to level the base on the tunnel
- Self-adhesive Velcro hook and loop
First, you'll need to mount one floor plate with the 4 bolts, between the center console and storage bins. Level with necessary washers.
Pre-assemble the remaining pipe components, tightly, and then thread the assembly into the floor mount with only a half turn or so past hand tight. This will allow you to remove the camera mount without removing the floor mount every time. Be sure to orient the top floor mount so that on of the bolt holes faces the front of the car. This hole will be used to mount the camera.
Stick one side of the Velcro to the top floor mount. The remaining piece sticks to the underside of your camera to prevent camera rotation during hard driving. Also, if you are using this device in a non-street application, you may be required to (and should anyway) use an additional nylon strap to secure the camera to the mount.
Determine the required length of each aluminum strut, creating a flattened, bent flange on each end through which you will drill mounting holes.
Follow the picture to finish up.
_________________________________
The whole thing took about 90 minutes with simple tools like a vice, a drill, a grinder to clean up the cut and formed struts, a screwdriver, and a socket set. I also had to get under the car to access the underside of the tunnel.
It's easy to install and remove, doesn't really invade the rear cargo area, allows access to both storage bins, is rock solid, and is asthetically passable. And yes, you can do it for $10 to $15.
Have fun!
Mike
_____________
'85 GSL
Going to Grattan on Memorial Day!
OK, Anthrax was correct, I did need to add support to eliminate vibration. Now, it's rock solid. Take a look at the picture to see the finished project.
This isn't rocket science, so I feel a little strange detailing the thing, but here it is.
_________________________________
Parts:
- 12" length of 1/2" pipe
- 8" length of 1/2" pipe
- One 1/2" pipe coupler
- Two 1/2" floor mounts
- About 6' of 1/2" aluminum tube or something similar (mine came off a junk playpen, of all things)
- One U-bolt with nuts
- Four bolts, washers, nuts to attach base to tunnel
- Two self-tapping hex-head screws to mount struts to trim screw holes
- Misc. washers to level the base on the tunnel
- Self-adhesive Velcro hook and loop
First, you'll need to mount one floor plate with the 4 bolts, between the center console and storage bins. Level with necessary washers.
Pre-assemble the remaining pipe components, tightly, and then thread the assembly into the floor mount with only a half turn or so past hand tight. This will allow you to remove the camera mount without removing the floor mount every time. Be sure to orient the top floor mount so that on of the bolt holes faces the front of the car. This hole will be used to mount the camera.
Stick one side of the Velcro to the top floor mount. The remaining piece sticks to the underside of your camera to prevent camera rotation during hard driving. Also, if you are using this device in a non-street application, you may be required to (and should anyway) use an additional nylon strap to secure the camera to the mount.
Determine the required length of each aluminum strut, creating a flattened, bent flange on each end through which you will drill mounting holes.
Follow the picture to finish up.
_________________________________
The whole thing took about 90 minutes with simple tools like a vice, a drill, a grinder to clean up the cut and formed struts, a screwdriver, and a socket set. I also had to get under the car to access the underside of the tunnel.
It's easy to install and remove, doesn't really invade the rear cargo area, allows access to both storage bins, is rock solid, and is asthetically passable. And yes, you can do it for $10 to $15.
Have fun!
Mike
_____________
'85 GSL
Going to Grattan on Memorial Day!
Last edited by GlobalSport; 05-20-03 at 08:27 PM.
05-20-03, 09:08 PM
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That looks really nice. I made mine sunday, and it uses the passenger and driver headrests for support. It doesn't require any holes, but yours looks more solid/just better overall.
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