Hey guys, I just recentlly got an 1983 base model rx7 12a MT 5spd I have fixed a problem with Tachometer stick by cleaning corosion off connectors.
HERES WHERE MY QUESTIONS START!:
1.) I have noticed alot of oil and grease build up in the engine compartment a significant amount, it almost looks as if someone dorve the car with the oil cap off or dipstick pulled out....I noticed the oil cap seemed fiarly new so I asked the last owner who was second owner and had owned the car since 1988 and he said the car has always had a small leak between every 3,000 miles oil change he said probably no more than a quart.....but being that said rotary engines burn oil respectivly close to that amount but there seems to be alot more oil the that in the engine area....maybe he didn't keep it clean and it built up over time or maybe ya'll can give some suggestions of where to look for leaks...P.S. the under side of the hood even had a decent build up of oil and under the carb against the firewall...exc....help?
2.)I noticed it runs very rough until warm and even then it runs somewhat rough the car has 177K miles on it the choke works properly what could be the issue? do i need to get hotter plugs? and the temperatures in florida get no lower than 35F so do i need cold start fliud if so whats the best mixture? and also could it be that it needs a new charcol canister and air filer?
3.) My final question so far is this when driving the car I can accelerate good the car runs good accelerating, but when i let off the throtle I can here a kinda of slight popping or backing firing noise as if releasing pressure from the engine compartment could it just be the all the exhaust gaskets are burnt out and they need replaced? In which I should Just Replace the Exhaust system? and if I should replace it what would be a good set up for everyday driving with exhaust somewhat loud but not to loud to be annoying when driving or loud enough for a ticket, and would give proper performance increase and I wanna be sure that the system I get bolts into factory locations and I Would like it to be a header back exhaust including the header......And The system or setup exceding no more than 750$ I'll do my own installation and when you post what setup you would choose to fit my prefered application state wether or not all gaskets come with it or not and where the best place to get gaskets if they dont come with the setup....thank you!
4.) also last what would be the preferred off set for a set of aftermarket rims and tires?

YOU HAVE READ ALOT THANKS FOR TAKEING TIME TO HELP ME OUT,
Nate!

 

Well this is the old standard for a newbie, go read the FAQ section on 1st gen RX7s.

Can you describe the poor running better it sounds like a shutter valve issue, easily fixed, do a search.

Rotary engine use oil as a lubricant into the engine via the OMP and this regularly leaks, the o rings can be easily replaced and the unit cleaned, or you can remove it completely and then pre mix, which is what I do, then I can use 2 stroke oil which is designed to lube the engine.

Rough running can be a vaccum leak, bad wires, bad plugs, low compression, etc etc..check the shutter valve first then what spark plugs are you using, only NGK or Nippon denso are recommended by anuybody in this forum.

Rotary engine all backfire on deceleration that isn't unusual at all.

A good RB exhaust, Mikuni carb and intake and 2GCDFIS will give you about 150hp on a stock engine, and 177K is just run in if treated right.....

 

As for the oil and crud build-up in the area of the oil filter and dipstick area, it could simply be the result of years of sloppy oil changes.

OR...... it could be leaking oil galley seals or, in the case of an under-rad oil cooler swap (if your oil filter still has the beehive style cooler under it this won't be the case), cracked oil hose fittings due to over-torquing in a futile effort to make used crush washers seal properly.

To confirm the galley seals are ok, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Wipe the housings clean in the areas just above the spark plugs and just below where "12A" is stamped into the aluminum rotor housings, particularly the areas between the housings, where the side and end housings meet the rotor housings. As long as there is no oil seeping out from between the housings in this area your galley seals are ok. If there is leaking here the engine will still run fine, but the only fix (if you can't stand the sight of engine leaks) is to tear the engine down and replace these four o-rings.

 

First thing to do is a good degreasing of the engine and engine bay, then locate the source of the leak. Once the leak/s are located, repairs can be made from there.

If you recently bought the car and don't have a maintinance history on it, perform the standard 30/60k maintinance. RX7doc recently did a thread on what to do for a newly purchased 7.

And, since you're new, welcome to the forum and the Darkside. In my sig line is a link to the online FSMs along with the factory carb manual, wiring diagrams, etc.

 

Thanks for the help I'll check it out today i also found a little issue.....is my Fan Supposed to come on right when i strat up the car when it's cold and also it doesn't get that cold here in florida no more than 35F at night should I still put cold start fluid in the car or is it just a waste of time?
Also should it decarbonize the engine with that amsoil stuff that i spray down the carb? I noticed it mentioned would it help with the rough idleing and running?, if so where would i get it?

 

Yes Amsoil, MMO, Seafoam all will help remove carbon, can be put into oil and fuel also, it will cause a lot of white smoke don't panic it'll pass, but it will be a LOT of smoke.

Fan is clutch type, works when heat builds up enough to engage it.

Cold start is dead wieght for you, hell I removed mine in Ohio.

 

An addition, you should need the cold start fluid until very, very low temps, my 12a starts fine at 10F without using any cold start.

I know racingbeat has an almost complete exhaust system for $690 for the 12a with all gaskets and parts as needed to install it. You will need to remove the rats nest and put an block of plate for the ai acv(i think that's the part name) to put the header on though. It also doesn't replace the intermediate pipe, you'll have to order a new one, or keep the stock one you have.

 

Thanks for the reference to the AMSOIL and C.S.F. but, About my fan since it's only supposed to come on when the engine builds heat, then it is a problem that it comes on right away correct? and being so how do i fixed it is it just the cluch on it? or maybe the thermastat that activiates the fan? also, since the fan is only right when my car is started then could this also be a reason why it takes so DAMN LONG TO WARM UP!!! >>>???? grr i hate that ...
Nate...

 

Does it have the standard big white fan driven off the waterpump or do you have a non-standard electric fan?
If you have the standard fan it does make a lot of noise (wind noise) after startup.

 

I have Standard everything nothing is aftermarket on here and yes right when started theres alot I MEAN ALOT OF WIND

 

Your fan may be stuck ON, so that it is always spinning. That happened to mine once: made a hell of a lot of wind noise always. So I picked one up at the junkyard and it's been fine everysince. If the motor is off, then when you spin the fan by hand it should have some resistance, but not a lot. If you give it a spin it should halt after about a turn or so.

 

I see in your other thread that you are now looking to rebuild, And the reason for this is why? What did you find out about the oil leak?

 

If the fan blows like crazy for like 30 seconds or so when you first start it up thats normal, all of mine have done that, after that initial blast it should slow down, it will always spin at least a little bit. The cold start is useless, I've started mine in sub zero temps plenty of time and it fires right up.

 

Thanks again for all the help um....and in reply to the question y I'm looking to rebuild the oil leaks that i found on the engine that is in the car now (the original engine 180,000 miles) they are coming from under the BeeHive Oil Cooler wich yes i know can be repaired but the leaks on the side of the block or between each housing can only be fixed by rebuilding and also the oil pan gaskets are worn out and leaking a decent amount of oil so i have a spare motor that needs rebuilt i plan on rebuilding it and putting on a nice exhaust, and intake/carb upgrade..

 

Swap to a FMOC (front mount oil cooler when you rebuild, I also recommend removing the OMP and going pre mix.

 

Yea...thanks I wanna keep my OMP cause i Don't wanna hassle with Premixing but how much about does it cost to swap to a FMOC?