Harder engine mounts?
Theres a Canadian mob ( Level Zero?) that does semi-solid (as in through-bolt) engine mounts in poly urethane. Iv got them in my 13bt fb to replace the std fb mounts. Motor barely flexes now and vibration no issue at all - just better feel.
I was so impressed with them that i obtained short length of 50mm PU rod (95d) and made my own tranny mounts.
I was so impressed with them that i obtained short length of 50mm PU rod (95d) and made my own tranny mounts.
I don't use any part of the stock motor mounts when I install hockey pucks. All I do is cut out a wendy's hamburger square of 1/8" thick 3"x3" steel plate, then a 1/4" thick 3"x3" square of aluminum plate, drill a 3/8" or 10mm hole through both, and then drill an oversized hole through the hockey puck (because rubber is really grippy and needs a slightly bigger hole). Then use a grade 8 bolt 3/8" 16NC (don't recall the length), a thick washer at each end, two nuts counter tightened together to keep from backing off because you can't really tighten down against rubber. Make the through-bolt tight and snug, then tighten a second nut to the first one to keep them from coming loose. Does that make sense?
As for cracking, only a tiny bit along the edge after years of engine heat exposure.
The throttle response from these is amazing. It isn't soft and squishy or delayed like on all modern cars. It's much more imediate and rewarding. Feels like you're driving a race car, sort of.
They don't transfer very many vibrations because rotaries don't really have any vibrations. But then if you start to feel vibrations you'll know right away that your engine might not be very happy so you can get in there and fix it before damage is done.
There is an oil slosh in the rotors that happens above idle. You do get to feel this.
It's interesting to learn more about the way your engine actually works just by upgrading your motor mounts.
No need for the torque brace that RB sells. Seems to me the torque brace is a combersome way to apply a band-aid fix when the real issue are the soft stock motor mounts.
Oh, you don't have to cut out your metal in a square. I just do it that way because a straight line is easier to cut than a circle. As for the thicknesses, I've found 1/8" and 1/4" plus the hockey puck is a good height. So because 1/4" in steel would weigh a lot, I went with aluminum. It holds up fine.
As for cracking, only a tiny bit along the edge after years of engine heat exposure.
The throttle response from these is amazing. It isn't soft and squishy or delayed like on all modern cars. It's much more imediate and rewarding. Feels like you're driving a race car, sort of.
They don't transfer very many vibrations because rotaries don't really have any vibrations. But then if you start to feel vibrations you'll know right away that your engine might not be very happy so you can get in there and fix it before damage is done.
There is an oil slosh in the rotors that happens above idle. You do get to feel this.
It's interesting to learn more about the way your engine actually works just by upgrading your motor mounts. No need for the torque brace that RB sells. Seems to me the torque brace is a combersome way to apply a band-aid fix when the real issue are the soft stock motor mounts.
Oh, you don't have to cut out your metal in a square. I just do it that way because a straight line is easier to cut than a circle. As for the thicknesses, I've found 1/8" and 1/4" plus the hockey puck is a good height. So because 1/4" in steel would weigh a lot, I went with aluminum. It holds up fine.
I used hockey pucks on my Gold car. Just drilled through them then slapped some plate steel on top... bolt up good to go.
My old mounts were completely separated. As for a different feeling from stock to "60%" stiffer??? dunno. They were better than separated.
They lasted at least two years and 20k. I haven't driven that car in about a year, but I'm sure the hockey pucks are still there.
My old mounts were completely separated. As for a different feeling from stock to "60%" stiffer??? dunno. They were better than separated.
They lasted at least two years and 20k. I haven't driven that car in about a year, but I'm sure the hockey pucks are still there.
djessence
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
I don't use any part of the stock motor mounts when I install hockey pucks. All I do is cut out a wendy's hamburger square of 1/8" thick 3"x3" steel plate, then a 1/4" thick 3"x3" square of aluminum plate, drill a 3/8" or 10mm hole through both, and then drill an oversized hole through the hockey puck (because rubber is really grippy and needs a slightly bigger hole). Then use a grade 8 bolt 3/8" 16NC (don't recall the length), a thick washer at each end, two nuts counter tightened together to keep from backing off because you can't really tighten down against rubber. Make the through-bolt tight and snug, then tighten a second nut to the first one to keep them from coming loose. Does that make sense?
As for cracking, only a tiny bit along the edge after years of engine heat exposure.
The throttle response from these is amazing. It isn't soft and squishy or delayed like on all modern cars. It's much more imediate and rewarding. Feels like you're driving a race car, sort of.
They don't transfer very many vibrations because rotaries don't really have any vibrations. But then if you start to feel vibrations you'll know right away that your engine might not be very happy so you can get in there and fix it before damage is done.
There is an oil slosh in the rotors that happens above idle. You do get to feel this. It's interesting to learn more about the way your engine actually works just by upgrading your motor mounts.
No need for the torque brace that RB sells. Seems to me the torque brace is a combersome way to apply a band-aid fix when the real issue are the soft stock motor mounts.
Oh, you don't have to cut out your metal in a square. I just do it that way because a straight line is easier to cut than a circle. As for the thicknesses, I've found 1/8" and 1/4" plus the hockey puck is a good height. So because 1/4" in steel would weigh a lot, I went with aluminum. It holds up fine.
As for cracking, only a tiny bit along the edge after years of engine heat exposure.
The throttle response from these is amazing. It isn't soft and squishy or delayed like on all modern cars. It's much more imediate and rewarding. Feels like you're driving a race car, sort of.
They don't transfer very many vibrations because rotaries don't really have any vibrations. But then if you start to feel vibrations you'll know right away that your engine might not be very happy so you can get in there and fix it before damage is done.
There is an oil slosh in the rotors that happens above idle. You do get to feel this.
It's interesting to learn more about the way your engine actually works just by upgrading your motor mounts. No need for the torque brace that RB sells. Seems to me the torque brace is a combersome way to apply a band-aid fix when the real issue are the soft stock motor mounts.
Oh, you don't have to cut out your metal in a square. I just do it that way because a straight line is easier to cut than a circle. As for the thicknesses, I've found 1/8" and 1/4" plus the hockey puck is a good height. So because 1/4" in steel would weigh a lot, I went with aluminum. It holds up fine.
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