Harder engine mounts?
10-20-02, 10:06 PM
#1
Harder engine mounts?
Hi, I dont come in this section often but I have a friend with a GSL-SE. He was wondering if someone makes competition motor mounts for his car. We checked with mazda trix and they said that they didnt know of any for that generation rx7. Has anyone ever bought any?? Thanks
10-20-02, 11:30 PM
#3
The people here will just tell you to use a torque brace. I, however, am going to go with solid motor mounts in my non RX-7 rotaries. Something about solid motor mounts in 1st gens and less grip in the front end? At least I won't have to worry about it. Where's peejay when you need him?
I'll tell him about the tourque brace. Maybe one of those and some new stock mounts will do the trick. Any more suggestions?? Thanks alot Trending Topics
10-21-02, 01:12 AM
#8
Originally posted by mperformance
hey I took mine out two days ago an I'm thinking about using solid plastic stock.
I heard that solid engine mounts tend to crack the front cover, is this true?
hey I took mine out two days ago an I'm thinking about using solid plastic stock.
I heard that solid engine mounts tend to crack the front cover, is this true?
10-21-02, 12:38 PM
#9
The mushy mounts in my REPU are so bad that my oil pan twists over and hits the crossmember. This ended up ripping one of my exhaust hangers completely through and severely stretched another one. Is my 13B really that torquey? Or are my mounts just old? Either way, I'm going to try solid mounts because I've got too much flex. The oil pan also hits the frame in my rotary MG, as does the starter because it also uses stock Mazda mounts. Rubber mounts are for luxury cars, not sports cars/trucks.
10-21-02, 01:32 PM
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Well mazdaspeed (aka MazdaComp) has competition engine and tranny mounts that it says are 40% stiffer than stock:
Engine mount: PN# 4352-39-040 $36.00
Tranny mount: PN# 4352-39-340 $43.60
"Note: 40 percent stiffer rubber than stock mount provides better rigidity and throttle response."
This is what I am getting for my car.
Engine mount: PN# 4352-39-040 $36.00
Tranny mount: PN# 4352-39-340 $43.60
"Note: 40 percent stiffer rubber than stock mount provides better rigidity and throttle response."
This is what I am getting for my car.
04-06-15, 12:41 PM
#12
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I'm bumping this from the grave because I'm wondering what people with gsl se cars are supposed to do, when wanting stiffer mounts, you can't use 12a ones, because the driver side one is taller than the passenger side, which is the same as a 12a one.
04-06-15, 01:18 PM
#13
I can update this thread with what I installed in my GSL-SE. I've gone with a competition trans mount from RB and hockey puck motor mounts. RB says the comp trans mount is 40% stiffer than stock. They also say that about their competition motor mounts. I went with hockey pucks because they are cheap and seem to be about 60% stiffer than stock.
As for my REPU, it got comp engine and trans mounts. The drivability is excellent and feels better than a new or modern truck. Modern in this case means anything built built from the 90s and later. The oil pan is up away from the crossmember and the exhaust hangers are perfectly happy. The engine also doesn't rock left to right anywhere nearly as much as it used to, even though the distance between mounts is short. Compare this to a 1st gen which has more distance between mounts thus more leverage or rather it's easier for the REPU engine to rock back and fourth but it really doesn't anymore. Plus no need for a torque brace.
Note the only times I've gotten shuddering are due to an old trans mount that is separating rubber from steel. If your car is doing this, get a new trans mount. And if you don't like the jiggly engine and don't mind a little more noise and vibes transfered from engine to car, get competition mounts or hockey pucks.
As for my REPU, it got comp engine and trans mounts. The drivability is excellent and feels better than a new or modern truck. Modern in this case means anything built built from the 90s and later. The oil pan is up away from the crossmember and the exhaust hangers are perfectly happy. The engine also doesn't rock left to right anywhere nearly as much as it used to, even though the distance between mounts is short. Compare this to a 1st gen which has more distance between mounts thus more leverage or rather it's easier for the REPU engine to rock back and fourth but it really doesn't anymore. Plus no need for a torque brace.
Note the only times I've gotten shuddering are due to an old trans mount that is separating rubber from steel. If your car is doing this, get a new trans mount. And if you don't like the jiggly engine and don't mind a little more noise and vibes transfered from engine to car, get competition mounts or hockey pucks.
04-06-15, 01:19 PM
#14
Originally Posted by project7s
I'm bumping this from the grave because I'm wondering what people with gsl se cars are supposed to do, when wanting stiffer mounts, you can't use 12a ones, because the driver side one is taller than the passenger side, which is the same as a 12a one.
04-06-15, 01:45 PM
#17
I just ordered a set of Mazda competition bushings for all my arms front and rear. I also ordered the Mazda competition differential mounts and was told that the Mazda competition motor mounts are no longer available. At least that's what the customer service rep told me when he couldn't order it on his computer for me. I need something equivalent to Mazda competition 40% stiffer then stock on my fd.
04-06-15, 02:44 PM
#18
Originally Posted by RW-7
Has anyone used FC competition motor mounts on an FB?
04-06-15, 02:45 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Rocketeerbandit
I just ordered a set of Mazda competition bushings for all my arms front and rear. I also ordered the Mazda competition differential mounts and was told that the Mazda competition motor mounts are no longer available. At least that's what the customer service rep told me when he couldn't order it on his computer for me. I need something equivalent to Mazda competition 40% stiffer then stock on my fd.
04-07-15, 09:26 AM
#20
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I was just didn't know if I got the competition ones and it lowered theDrivers side of the engine, would the engine fan hit the shroud, it looks like it would.
I was hoping they made a gsl se drivers side competition mount.
I was hoping they made a gsl se drivers side competition mount.
04-07-15, 10:13 AM
#22
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the drivers side of a stock gslse mount is twice as tall its massive, maybe some one put 12a mounts in your car previously, but stock that's the way it is. You should bee able to see the difference on MazdaTrix web site in the stock mounts.
I know I can't use a shorter stock 12a mount on the drivers side the fan will hit.
I know I can't use a shorter stock 12a mount on the drivers side the fan will hit.
04-07-15, 11:57 AM
#23
the drivers side of a stock gslse mount is twice as tall its massive, maybe some one put 12a mounts in your car previously, but stock that's the way it is. You should bee able to see the difference on MazdaTrix web site in the stock mounts.
I know I can't use a shorter stock 12a mount on the drivers side the fan will hit.
I know I can't use a shorter stock 12a mount on the drivers side the fan will hit.
04-09-15, 04:48 PM
#24
I have stock 12a mounts in my SE swapped 80. No issues. I think they are too soft from the weight of the engine being further forward due to the notched front cover engine mount bracket and causes a wobble at idle. I am considering stiffer mounts. I had them in an FC and my 79 and liked them.
06-05-15, 01:06 PM
#25
djessence
I can update this thread with what I installed in my GSL-SE. I've gone with a competition trans mount from RB and hockey puck motor mounts. RB says the comp trans mount is 40% stiffer than stock. They also say that about their competition motor mounts. I went with hockey pucks because they are cheap and seem to be about 60% stiffer than stock.
As for my REPU, it got comp engine and trans mounts. The drivability is excellent and feels better than a new or modern truck. Modern in this case means anything built built from the 90s and later. The oil pan is up away from the crossmember and the exhaust hangers are perfectly happy. The engine also doesn't rock left to right anywhere nearly as much as it used to, even though the distance between mounts is short. Compare this to a 1st gen which has more distance between mounts thus more leverage or rather it's easier for the REPU engine to rock back and fourth but it really doesn't anymore. Plus no need for a torque brace.
Note the only times I've gotten shuddering are due to an old trans mount that is separating rubber from steel. If your car is doing this, get a new trans mount. And if you don't like the jiggly engine and don't mind a little more noise and vibes transfered from engine to car, get competition mounts or hockey pucks.
As for my REPU, it got comp engine and trans mounts. The drivability is excellent and feels better than a new or modern truck. Modern in this case means anything built built from the 90s and later. The oil pan is up away from the crossmember and the exhaust hangers are perfectly happy. The engine also doesn't rock left to right anywhere nearly as much as it used to, even though the distance between mounts is short. Compare this to a 1st gen which has more distance between mounts thus more leverage or rather it's easier for the REPU engine to rock back and fourth but it really doesn't anymore. Plus no need for a torque brace.
Note the only times I've gotten shuddering are due to an old trans mount that is separating rubber from steel. If your car is doing this, get a new trans mount. And if you don't like the jiggly engine and don't mind a little more noise and vibes transfered from engine to car, get competition mounts or hockey pucks.
When you are installing your hockey pucks do you just torch out the rubber under the upper cap and replace with the puck and set back on the lower cap?
Have you have any issues with the pucks cracking yet?
Thanks,
Jesse