1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

gslse wont start!?!?!

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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 04:42 PM
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gslse wont start!?!?!

Well i figured i wasnt getting any spark because the plugs were pretty bad so i bought new plugs and sure enough it started just fine 3 times but when i would try and let it idle it would die so started it up again and the same thing then again......after the 3rd time i started it, it doesnt wanna start again i have fuel spark and air what else could this be?Thanks in advance!
Daniel
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 04:58 PM
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perhaps it is flooded. or just the opposite, lack of gas...
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 07:11 PM
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Most likely is flooded. During the idle conditions, if the timing isn't set correctly and the idle mixture is off, and/or the TPS is out of adjustment, you'll get a 'loping' (up/down) idle that results in the engine dying. Once this occurs, you still have fuel pressure in the fuel rail, and your injectors may be leaking-down, i.e., leaking and dumping that excess fuel pressure into the intake runners. This results in a flooded engine.

Take out the plugs and look at them to see if they're wet (replace plugs) - if so, remove the 'INJECTION' Fusible Link near on the driver's side strut tower, and crank until you get it to spark. Once it tries to turn over, re-insert the Fusible Link and it should start up pretty easily.

Most SE's will turn over and start within about 2-3 seconds during that first crank, so if you have to keep at it, you either have delayed fuel pressure coming up (clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, or clogged lines), or leaky injectors. Injectors will leak internally into the intake runners, so you may not see or smell fuel and still have to replace fuel injectors.

Give the unflooding trick a try and report back,
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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Longduck you just explained everything that happend to the car perfectly..........it was flooded, so i let it sit for a while went back and it started right up..........it was smoking pretty dang bad and leaked 2 quarts of oil in about 2 minutes lol i have a oil pressurized hose that has a hole in it but at least it starts now i just gotta replace the hose and it should be on the road.....aaaawwwwwwwwww i love rotary :0)
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 07:55 PM
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Thanks to both of you!!
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 07:56 PM
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Longduck seems to know ALL about the gsl-se. he's helped me a ton in the past. his advice is righ on!
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 10:04 PM
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oh fo shizl, longduck is god around here im my eyes. Seems to me he created the damn car.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 10:40 AM
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Thanks for the feedback - I have learned by doing (and reading the FSM whenever I get a chance).

Keep at it, the SE's are the most rewarding 7's to drive, IMO.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 01:55 PM
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AAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!! Dang car man........i got the new hose fixed the oil leak went to start it and nothing!!!!!!! Its not flooded, has spark, everything is good it just doesnt wanna turn on. Sounds like it wants to but doesnt turn on. What else is there, how do I know if i have bad injectors?
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:13 PM
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Sound like the plugs are getting fouled by getting too much fuel.

Are ALL the plugs soaked in fuel or just some of them.

If a condition exists that is fouling the plugs then you have to clean the plugs EVERYTIME you want to start it.

Many things can cause that problem. Check the fuel pressure regualtor, injecors might be stuck open etc.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:18 PM
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Well i finally know what it is.........the fusible link was never getting spark flooded or not starts right up when I rub the fusible link back and forth in the plug.....why is it not getting spark without rubbing it? Thanks again for all your input!
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 07:31 PM
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Run a search on Fusible Links to see how they work.

Essentially, you need to get some replacements for your car or it's going to cause ongoing problems. In the meantime, you can cut the wiring wrap from the Fusible Link that's causing the problem (is it the IGNITION one?) cut the wire and twist the ends together - this will keep you running until you're able to find replacements.

DO NOT RUN STANDARD WIRE TO THE FUSIBLE LINK CONNECTORS.

Fusible Links are designed to carry a high initial load and then the continuous load during use. When tasked with too much current draw, they are designed to FRY, and thus serve as a fuse that will prevent a potential ENGINE FIRE or ELECTRICAL FIRE. You need to replace Fusible Links with the proper type and color.

Mazdatrix (www.mazdatrix.com) sells the correct Fusible Links for your SE, and you'll need 3 types on hand as spares. Brown, Black and Green - each of these are designed for different current loads, so be sure that you replace with the correct color.

Check the FSM to determine which one goes where (I documented this in another thread about Fusible Links awhile back).

You might try disconnecting and reconnecting ALL of the Fusible Links a few times as sometimes the connectors can get corroded or rusted and cleaning them off can work wonders. HTH,
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