riofrio

I remember reading here that the GSL SE has like a 'cold-start mechanism', or something, such that when you start it cold, it will idle high (around 2000) and progressively make its way down to 800. My car does the complete opposite: when I start it cold, I need to hold the gas for a few seconds otherwise it will stall. Then it will idle at ~550 and slowly make it up to 800-850. Can someone tell me what may be causing this?

Thanks,
rio

Feds

The starting procedure for an -se is to press the gas all the way to the floor to engage the cold start mechanism, release the gas, then start it. Try it and report back.

riofrio

Yeah, I did try that... in fact, I still do that every time, but no change.

werd

if you are standing on the rt side of the engine look at the firewall side of the throttle body. there is a cylinder shaped valve with 2 water hoses going to it. this is the valve that controls the fast idle. when the engine is cold the piston on top of the valve should be down. it will slowly move up as the engine warms up.
before making any adjustments make sure the coolant is topped off. there is a adjustment screww on top of the piston turn it in to idle up. only adjust when engine is cold. you may need to adjust the idle switch after fast idle adjustment is done. the hanes manual has the proper adjustment procedure. if you don't have one you should get one

bizarro

iTrader: (1)

if your normal idle goes from 550 back up to 800 your tps might be out of allignment...you'll be able to tell if when the car is warmed up and you rev it and watch the rpms come back down...if they go down to 550 then back up to 800 the prob is the tps...i recommend checking your tps with the 2 light tester...you can read more about idle issues here...

http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html

once warm does the rpm's skip between 1500 and 2000? i had this issue along with your current one...it was fixed once i adjusted the tps...

hope this helps!

riofrio

Hey thanks for the responses.
Werd, I'll look into your advice.
Bizarro: I am familiar with the TPS adjustment procedure, and I do have a 2 light tester. However, my TPS case is quite peculiar: If the TPS adjustment screw is far enough in the counterclockwise direction (TPS piston sticking out too much), both my lights will be OFF (as expected); after turning the screw clockwise, one light will go ON and one will remain OFF (also as expected); however, and this is the peculiar part, if I keep turning clockwise (to find my limit and keep it half way in between), I will NEVER see both lights on. Even if I manually push the TPS piston all the way in, still, both lights will never be on. I have tested the resistances on the TPS as per the Haynes manual and it's tip top. I have even replaced it and it's the same thing with the newer one. And yes, I have triple checked that my light tester works... in fact, I've even tried doing this with a multimeter. So, it's either a wiring problem, or an ECU problem. As far as other idle symptoms, I don't think I have any. Once warmed up, the car idles fine and steady, without surging. When cruising, it maintains the correct throttle response. Now, when at low gears, it does jerk if I let go of the gas pedal, but I don't know if this is a TPS related symptom.

Whoa, sorry for the long post. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

rio

jimmdog

My car is doing almost the same stuff with the two light TPS adj. program except when I push the clutch in it idles @ 2K solid and sputters WTF? HELP!

Gregs

i never push the gas pedal down on my -se i just turn the key and she fires...