mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

lately it seems as though a lot of se's are coming down with winter bugs. well my problem is small, as the car runs like a robber from the cops however, if i hold it at a certain speed, slightly resting my foot on the gas, it feels like i completely let off and get back on it. yet my foot never moves. at any throttle but very light throttle (keeping it at 25 or 35 say) it perfroms great! no more hesitation! what do you guys think could be troubling my poor little car?? i am missing the following parts: intake air temp sender, air hose on lower intake facing the right side, air pump. also, if anyone has these parts and wants to come off of them i will buy them right now! i was thinking the timing could be a little off. i am open for thoughs.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

its not like i have an accelerator pump to worry about. perhaps a small vaccume leak???

MarkPerez

Well you might try your linkage(s) and or 'play' could also be a spring.

Steve Shulz

Try this first if you already havent. http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html
Do a search in the classified for parting out of GSL-SE's quite a few, or check ebay and look for or email this guy EBargainLLC@Yahoo.com
Almost sounds TPS'ish, when was the last time you checked the adjustment?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i know samuel personally. he told me he didn't know if he had the parts and to check with him this week. tps is good. i am really leading to timing. i'll check the link. thank you, dave

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

accelerator cable is brand new and properly adjusted.

bizarro

iTrader: (1)

I know you said your TPS is good but did you make sure its adjusted correctly?

I had the SAME EXACT issue when the rpms reached 1000-1500...what i did was hook up the 2 light tester and adjusted the TPS to where it should be and done...never came up again...

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

nice SE, first off!! looks exactly like mine!!! i have not adjusted the tps. maybe i'll check into that with the tester. i think timing is off a little. newer motor and i am thinking i need to adjust the timing.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

Could be as simple as an adjustment around the re-egi plenum or maybe dirty injectors.... they might just need cleaning which a shop can do.

also remove the plugs and just clean them up a bit.

Should help

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

just gonna bump this thread 'cause i have the same problem...

if i set my foot on the gas to put the tach at 1500 or so rpm, the engine will rev smooth to 1500 and then cut out completely till it hits 1000 then repeat. very rythmic and seemingly deliberate.

my first thought was the tps. i just got the car and it's been kind of rainy, so i haven't been able to dig into it and check on stuff... just making initial assumptions at this point....

also, the coolant should be pretty much up to the top of the radiator when the car is cold, right? it looks a bit low (plus i get some gurgling from behind the dash when i hit the gas which i assume is bubbles going through the heater core), and i was just wanted to ensure that i don't overfill it when i top it off.

LongDuck

Definitely readjust your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) that is the cause of your idle/throttle problem.

On the coolant level, you shouldn't be losing any coolant anywhere when it cools down - this may be caused by a clogged line to the overflow reservoir. When the coolant heats up, it flows out just fine, but when it cools down and attempts to draw overflow coolant back in, it can't pull a vacuum. Could also be your radiator cap - factory Mazda is tops for replacement.

Also, check under the car and see if there are any coolant spots - the easy fix is that you have a leak at the drain plug, or one of the radiator or heater hoses that's causing your coolant loss.

The hard fix is that your waterpump needs to be replaced, and you can determine this by coolant flowing down the front cover - usually you won't lose much at all, it just will seep out through the waterpump wear (weep) hole.

The even harder fix is that you have a coolant O-ring that has given out on the rotor housing, which is letting coolant into the combustion chamber - this is HIGHLY unlikely, however. I have 175k miles, and no signs at all of any internal coolant leaks.

HTH, and let us know what you find. The rest of us with SE's like to know what's failing and under what conditions...

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the input. as you probably know, i just bought this car. and the coolant needs flushed as soon as i have a dry day to do it - it looks really old. in the meantime, i'm going to top if off. what's the appropriate level to top it too?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i bought a used but good tps. i am gonna try that when i get it and report back. i got the ias but i am still missing the hoses. i am going to adjust the timing again and i will report back when i get the new tps installed.