82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

So I recently replaced my battery ground and have been having electrical issues ever since. With the new ground I went from the battery directly to the engine.

I think now I need to run a ground from either the engine to the chassis or a run and additional ground from the battery to the chassis.

Which is the better option? I am thinking that if I go from the same location of the current ground on the engine over to the chassis will be ok.

Sound good?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The factory ground cable runs from the battery to a point on the drivers side strut tower then to the long starter bolt.

I ran one from the battery directly to the long starter bolt, another from the battery to the drivers side strut tower, and then another from the long alternator bolt to the same point on the drivers side strut tower.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

The need is to have chassis, engine/starter/alternator, and battery negative terminal all bonded together with minimum-resistance connections to get them all to equal potential. You also have to be sure the connections can handle the current flow.

Highest current-flow path is from starter to battery.
Second highest is from alternator to battery.
Third highest is from chassis to battery (when lights and fan are on).
Forth highest involves ground-side of the ignition system via the engine block.

Goal is to tie all of these together with the thickest and shortest runs of high-quality copper cable practical.

The factory plan of going from battery to starter with a mid-way bond to the chassis, & letting the engine block & alternator connect via the starter cable is more about saving copper than providing the absolutely most-efficient ground. Aluminum and cast iron are not the best of conductors.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

OK. I got some 2/0 welding wire today and will go from battery to long starter bolt (I assume since this bolts through the engine to the starter I will have the ground on the engine side)

How do you connect 2 large gauge wires to the negative battery terminal if want to hook a second wire from the battery to the strut tower? Just crimp them both in a battery post connector?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I used pre-made 1 gauge wire from Tractor Supply. I then replaced the bolt with a longer one and ran the main line to the starter and another shorter piece, I believe 2 foot, to the strut tower. Then a ran another 2 foot piece from that alternator to the strut tower. You can kind of see the alternator one. It then snakes under the distributor and AC.

I don't like crimping wire that big. If I had to make my own I'd solder it with a propane torch.

Traveller® Post Terminal Battery Cable, 1 Gauge, 48 in., Black - Tractor Supply Co.



I did some similar with the positive lead. It runs to the starter and then another wire goes to a second gen fuse block. The alternator positive runs to the fuse block biggest fuse.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

Oh I see how you did it. You have one wire hooked to a battery post, and another one to the bolt on the terminal. I didn't think about that. Yes I will solder them with plumbing torch.

Thank you sir

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

So is there a good reason the ground to the starter has to be attached to the long bolt? I already have the positive and trigger wire attached to a bracket that attached to the long bolt (I believe that is the stock location)

Can I attach the ground to the back of the starter, ie the bottom bolt?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I attached mine to the backside of the starter long bolt because the cable was a bit too long. I like the long bolt because it is in direct contact with the rear iron, trans, and starter. The other bolt will work just fine tough. I believe it's only in contact with the starter and trans though.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

Good grounds cleared up all my issues. Thanks guys!