got my gilmer kit.
#51
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about 1.5 wide. the dual pulleys i found for the alt where about the same size. remember the gilmer does not have to be as tight as a normal belt.
bliffle do you have a problem with me or some thing? i dont believe i ever said any thing to ever offend you. if i did in the past iam sorry.
bliffle do you have a problem with me or some thing? i dont believe i ever said any thing to ever offend you. if i did in the past iam sorry.
#52
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#59
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note to all i have no idea why the gilmer drive sounds so loud and high pitch. only thing i can think of is my cam is only picking up highs.
i had a fan mounted in front for the video, my brother had two 12inch fan's he was going to install for a friend, but he let me use them to start the car and take the video. this was taken the day my friend fixed the wiring problem and i just need to hear my motor run . you must know whats it like to have a car not running and on jack stands for months.
so don't worry i am not dumb enough to run it with out a fan. i now have the stock fan mounted.i deiced id rather not worry about a efan breaking.i allso painted it red .this was shot after i sea foamed my motor, so i think thats what the big puff of smoke was. i wasn't revving it that high except when i took the video from in side the car. the car starts up so much easier now,cat must of been clogged or something like that. also before i took my car off the road it would idle at 1k. now its lower, do you think its be cause of the header and the fact i removed the air pump ect ect.
i had a fan mounted in front for the video, my brother had two 12inch fan's he was going to install for a friend, but he let me use them to start the car and take the video. this was taken the day my friend fixed the wiring problem and i just need to hear my motor run . you must know whats it like to have a car not running and on jack stands for months.
so don't worry i am not dumb enough to run it with out a fan. i now have the stock fan mounted.i deiced id rather not worry about a efan breaking.i allso painted it red .this was shot after i sea foamed my motor, so i think thats what the big puff of smoke was. i wasn't revving it that high except when i took the video from in side the car. the car starts up so much easier now,cat must of been clogged or something like that. also before i took my car off the road it would idle at 1k. now its lower, do you think its be cause of the header and the fact i removed the air pump ect ect.
#60
The whine is generated by the teeth on the belt meeting the pulley.
#61
Senior Member
Hey Bliffle, Do you even own a Rotary? You do realize that Rotary engines DON'T have valves don't you??
I am sorry but I just don't know where you are getting off slamming Ben for getting this kit!! This is his car, not yours and if installed correctly should outlast any normal belt as the new belt is wider and thinner therefore it distributes the tension and heat better than your normal "V" belt. It is true that if you tighten the belt too much that it will wreck bearings but do you not realize that this will happen with ANY belt if you over tighten it?? Use your common sense and if you dont like what Ben has done or is going to do them simply don't look at this thread or even better, sign off here and start your own website and call it www.boringass-stockRX7club.com for all we care.
Point of this post to Bliffle: Its neither your car or your money so back off and keep your hate opinions to yourself.
I am the guy that supplied Ben with the Gilmore setup, if any one is interested I may be able to organize a group buy of 10 sets or more for a little less. these cost Ben NZD$420 plus $30 for frieght and I did it as a favor and made no money.
#62
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Badsvn2000,
Your aim is poor.
I was speaking of boinger owners who curse Gilmer valve drive belts that separate. A common occurence. Sometimes prematurely. The one on my then-new 1976 Fiat 2 liter separated after only 50k, despite being rated for 90-100k.
If you bothered to read the sig you'd notice that I have 4 rotarys (all running well, by the way, looking good, too). That's the current stable. I bought my 83 new in 1982. Bet I've owned rotarys longer than you.
I also own a boinger. On that I replaced the gilmer belt and all associated stuff like waterpump, idler, etc., immediately upon adopting it from the auto orphanage.
My experience with Gilmer belts goes back to the 50s when we converted a steel chain drive V8 valve train to Gilmer built for racing purposes (reduces rotating inertia quite a bit). Lots of expensive fabbing involved.
The Gilmer Timing Belt wasn't devised to 'be cool', nor to even provide more positive belt drive. It was devised to maintain critical timing requirements, such as for valve trains. That's why they call it a Gilmer Timing Belt. The short lifetime of a Gilmer belt is OK for some race cars, especially dragsters where the engine is torn down often. But I always figured it was a bad idea for production cars. But manufacturers found they could save a lot of manufacturing costs with the damn things so all boinger owners are now proud owners of Gilmer drives and can anxiously await their failure.
Your aim is poor.
I was speaking of boinger owners who curse Gilmer valve drive belts that separate. A common occurence. Sometimes prematurely. The one on my then-new 1976 Fiat 2 liter separated after only 50k, despite being rated for 90-100k.
If you bothered to read the sig you'd notice that I have 4 rotarys (all running well, by the way, looking good, too). That's the current stable. I bought my 83 new in 1982. Bet I've owned rotarys longer than you.
I also own a boinger. On that I replaced the gilmer belt and all associated stuff like waterpump, idler, etc., immediately upon adopting it from the auto orphanage.
My experience with Gilmer belts goes back to the 50s when we converted a steel chain drive V8 valve train to Gilmer built for racing purposes (reduces rotating inertia quite a bit). Lots of expensive fabbing involved.
The Gilmer Timing Belt wasn't devised to 'be cool', nor to even provide more positive belt drive. It was devised to maintain critical timing requirements, such as for valve trains. That's why they call it a Gilmer Timing Belt. The short lifetime of a Gilmer belt is OK for some race cars, especially dragsters where the engine is torn down often. But I always figured it was a bad idea for production cars. But manufacturers found they could save a lot of manufacturing costs with the damn things so all boinger owners are now proud owners of Gilmer drives and can anxiously await their failure.
#63
Rotary Freak
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Another key reason OEMs use timing belts instead of chains, is for NVH. Belts are quieter.
As for the durability concern, remember that the forces encountered on a valvetrain are far more violent than those seen on an alternator or water pump. Each time the camshaft opens a valve, the force ramps up, then ramps back down on the valve closing. These events are constantly stretching and compressing the belt at high frequency -- all on a belt that is less than half the width of the rotary gilmer drive.
A properly set up and tensioned drive on a rotary should last a loooong time.
#65
Senior Member
As for the durability concern, remember that the forces encountered on a valvetrain are far more violent than those seen on an alternator or water pump. Each time the camshaft opens a valve, the force ramps up, then ramps back down on the valve closing. These events are constantly stretching and compressing the belt at high frequency -- all on a belt that is less than half the width of the rotary gilmer drive.
A properly set up and tensioned drive on a rotary should last a loooong time.
A properly set up and tensioned drive on a rotary should last a loooong time.
Anyway I am off to fit engines into 2 FD's!
P.S. Mine goes VERY well also!
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