Got MMO now what
05-04-04, 06:05 PM
#6
Never poured MMO or ATF down a carb. I've succesfully done the 'oil trick' several times though.
The only engine I've ever put MMO in is a 20B with carboned apex seals. I only hope the oil O rings and water seals haven't been destroyed.
ATF will never see the inside of any of my engines.
Man, it's just you and me in this thread so far. Who here has gotten an engine to run after pouring something down the carb?
The only engine I've ever put MMO in is a 20B with carboned apex seals. I only hope the oil O rings and water seals haven't been destroyed.
ATF will never see the inside of any of my engines.
Man, it's just you and me in this thread so far. Who here has gotten an engine to run after pouring something down the carb?
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05-04-04, 07:34 PM
#8
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Poured some gas in one once. Seemed to work pretty well.
I have however had good luck using WD40 like starting fluid. Just a little spray while turnin the motor over.
The mystery oil goes in the tank (8oz. to a full tank), to clean and lube the fuel system.
I have however had good luck using WD40 like starting fluid. Just a little spray while turnin the motor over.
The mystery oil goes in the tank (8oz. to a full tank), to clean and lube the fuel system.
05-04-04, 09:23 PM
#10
It sputters and keeps cranking? Could be bad plugs. That happened to me the other night.
You do have decent spark on all four, right? No misfiring from excess carbon on the porcelain? That's what I had (they came out of the core, but looked good even before cleaning them... whoops!).
You do have decent spark on all four, right? No misfiring from excess carbon on the porcelain? That's what I had (they came out of the core, but looked good even before cleaning them... whoops!).
05-05-04, 12:05 AM
#12
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[QUOTE] car won't start..
When you use MMO *to restore compression* the way I do it is put about 3/4 of a bottle (total) into the combustion chambers, via the spark plug holes. Then put the spark plugs back in, "bump" the starter a few times to spread the MMO all around the chambers, let it sit for a few minutes, and then crank it until it starts. Repeat as necessary. If the battery gets low from cranking, use a jumper battery (jumper cables) before your battery gets too low.
Works for me every time.
When you use MMO *to restore compression* the way I do it is put about 3/4 of a bottle (total) into the combustion chambers, via the spark plug holes. Then put the spark plugs back in, "bump" the starter a few times to spread the MMO all around the chambers, let it sit for a few minutes, and then crank it until it starts. Repeat as necessary. If the battery gets low from cranking, use a jumper battery (jumper cables) before your battery gets too low.
Works for me every time.
Last edited by genrex; 05-05-04 at 12:11 AM.
05-05-04, 08:55 AM
#16
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Get yerself a long flexible tube, squirt a liberal amount into the bottom sparkplug holes. Grab a camera, then start 'er up!
Eldest Brother, Denny
From the abandoned corncrib
Eldest Brother, Denny
From the abandoned corncrib
05-05-04, 10:48 AM
#17
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put the mmo in the spark plug holes? ok. car has no choke on it. the previous owner put like a holley 640 on it. when i had to wait 4 months to change the clutch i had bad gas so i drained it and now it sputters when trying to start. ok will try mmo in spark plug holes. thanks alot
05-05-04, 11:50 AM
#19
Those four prong plugs are BR8EQ-14 and are the correct type for your engine. Clean 'em up and see if you can fire them outside of the engine. Use a wire brush or wire wheel to clean between the electrodes. The easiest way to see if they're firing is to hook them up to the plug wires, ground the outside of the plug to something that's metal in the engine bay with the electrode side pointing toward you. Then turn off the fuel pump and crank the engine. You should see sparks on all four plugs. Blue sparks mean clean plugs. White means carbon. Orange means dirty/old plugs. Purple is usually a combination of conditions.
Try to notice if the area down deep into the plug is lighting up with each spark. Mine were misfiring because the spark was traveling down a carbon path and back up instead of jumping the gap. Bad plugs gave me the same symptoms as you.
Try to notice if the area down deep into the plug is lighting up with each spark. Mine were misfiring because the spark was traveling down a carbon path and back up instead of jumping the gap. Bad plugs gave me the same symptoms as you.
05-05-04, 02:19 PM
#20
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When pouring MMO down the spark plug holes.... say I want to get 1/4 bottle in each chamber, how can I ensure of this? I mean, if I'm turning the engine over by hand, how can I tell when a seal just passed by the hole in which I'm pouring?
My second question is... besides doing this for starting purposes... should I do it just for regular maintenance?
My second question is... besides doing this for starting purposes... should I do it just for regular maintenance?
05-05-04, 02:23 PM
#21
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Well, my only advice (beyond *not* drinking it) is DON'T put it in your oil!
MMO works great for an in-fuel lubricant since it appears to burn very cleanly. Every tank, you can add as you would for pre-mix and it won't cause any problems at all, will help to keep everything cleaned up and well-oiled, and the petroleum additives in MMO do cut down on carbon build up considerably. When you run it in your fuel system, you will see some performance gains, since the carbon-cutting action will tend to clean out float bowls, fuel injectors, lines, pressure regulators, etc. that may have built up a layer of carbon over time.
This is in the FUEL. If you add it to your OIL, it may cause problems on high-mileage engines. Here's how; When the MMO gets into the oil system, it will travel to anywhere that the oil flows (naturally), and this includes the rubber Oil-Control Seals on each side of your rotor that keep the oil where it belongs - in the engine. When the Oil Control Seals get old, and the engine has a lot of miles on it that contribute to carbon buildup everywhere - they will tend to be assisted in their sealing action by this carbon layer in an elliptical pattern at the center of the rotor housings (both sides, and both front and rear rotors).
By adding MMO with it's carbon-cutting additives, your oil system sprays MMO/oil onto the Oil Control Seals and it removes the carbon - WHICH IS HELPING YOUR ENGINE STAY SEALED. As this carbon is worn away, the engine starts to burn more oil, smoke more on startup, and generally cause other problems that can only be fixed through a rebuild.
How do I know this, you ask?
I added MMO to my oil (1 qt of a 4qt oil change) after reading this on the MMO bottle - a little is good in the fuel, right? - must be grand in the oil! The next day, the engine smokes like James Bond's Aston Martin set to SMOKESCREEN mode! Within one day, the MMO did it's trick, and I've been trying to fix the smoking on startup problem. First move was to drain the oil and replace with fresh 20W50 - didn't work. Next step was to drain oil again and replace w/10W30 to get lower oil pressure on cold start - didn't work. Added 'Engine Honey' - molasses constitution to 10W30 oil and dramatically increased viscosity - didn't work.
The only thing that seems to work is taking it very, very easy on cold starts to avoid getting the oil pressure high. Cold oil generates more pressure as it's being pumped than when it's warmed up - hence, the cold start smoking. As long as I keep the oil pressure down, it smokes less.
Rebuild the OMP last weekend in hopes that this may be contributing to the cold-start smoking. Upside - if there is one; better fuel economy (poor oil economy, tho!), seems to have more power, and I'm not concerned about the engine getting enough oil on startup!! HTH,
MMO works great for an in-fuel lubricant since it appears to burn very cleanly. Every tank, you can add as you would for pre-mix and it won't cause any problems at all, will help to keep everything cleaned up and well-oiled, and the petroleum additives in MMO do cut down on carbon build up considerably. When you run it in your fuel system, you will see some performance gains, since the carbon-cutting action will tend to clean out float bowls, fuel injectors, lines, pressure regulators, etc. that may have built up a layer of carbon over time.
This is in the FUEL. If you add it to your OIL, it may cause problems on high-mileage engines. Here's how; When the MMO gets into the oil system, it will travel to anywhere that the oil flows (naturally), and this includes the rubber Oil-Control Seals on each side of your rotor that keep the oil where it belongs - in the engine. When the Oil Control Seals get old, and the engine has a lot of miles on it that contribute to carbon buildup everywhere - they will tend to be assisted in their sealing action by this carbon layer in an elliptical pattern at the center of the rotor housings (both sides, and both front and rear rotors).
By adding MMO with it's carbon-cutting additives, your oil system sprays MMO/oil onto the Oil Control Seals and it removes the carbon - WHICH IS HELPING YOUR ENGINE STAY SEALED. As this carbon is worn away, the engine starts to burn more oil, smoke more on startup, and generally cause other problems that can only be fixed through a rebuild.
How do I know this, you ask?
I added MMO to my oil (1 qt of a 4qt oil change) after reading this on the MMO bottle - a little is good in the fuel, right? - must be grand in the oil! The next day, the engine smokes like James Bond's Aston Martin set to SMOKESCREEN mode! Within one day, the MMO did it's trick, and I've been trying to fix the smoking on startup problem. First move was to drain the oil and replace with fresh 20W50 - didn't work. Next step was to drain oil again and replace w/10W30 to get lower oil pressure on cold start - didn't work. Added 'Engine Honey' - molasses constitution to 10W30 oil and dramatically increased viscosity - didn't work.
The only thing that seems to work is taking it very, very easy on cold starts to avoid getting the oil pressure high. Cold oil generates more pressure as it's being pumped than when it's warmed up - hence, the cold start smoking. As long as I keep the oil pressure down, it smokes less.
Rebuild the OMP last weekend in hopes that this may be contributing to the cold-start smoking. Upside - if there is one; better fuel economy (poor oil economy, tho!), seems to have more power, and I'm not concerned about the engine getting enough oil on startup!! HTH,
05-05-04, 02:53 PM
#22
Long Duck, I put some MMO in my 20B that was full of carbon because the PO had spark plugs one setting too cold than OEM. It had 7 and 9 where it was supposed to have 6 and 8 heat range plugs, respectively (lower number = hotter plug). The MMO allowed the apex seals to move freely in their slots, but may have destroyed the oil O rings' ability to prevent smoking at startup. I won't know until it's running, but I have plenty of reasons to worry.
Also, my recently rebuilt R5 13B has used oil seals, but new Atkins Viton oil O rings. It also has a shimmed rear oil pressure regulator that causes the oil pressure to jump up to 100PSI on cold starts. I haven't noticed a puff of smoke at startup for the last couple months. I installed it in Feb and drive it every other day, or sometimes only once a week for short trips. MMO and ATF will never see the oil system of this engine. I may put it in the fuel system, but it's running quite well since breaking it in, so it's not very likely I'll even do that. So much for the miracle cure, huh?
Also, my recently rebuilt R5 13B has used oil seals, but new Atkins Viton oil O rings. It also has a shimmed rear oil pressure regulator that causes the oil pressure to jump up to 100PSI on cold starts. I haven't noticed a puff of smoke at startup for the last couple months. I installed it in Feb and drive it every other day, or sometimes only once a week for short trips. MMO and ATF will never see the oil system of this engine. I may put it in the fuel system, but it's running quite well since breaking it in, so it's not very likely I'll even do that. So much for the miracle cure, huh?
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