Iv seen people use a rubber type coating and also a stone guard type finish.

Just wondering what's good durable paint the won't crack and start rusting?

Doesnt have to look good as you can't see these areas.

 

Never really seen any rust here. Despite the fact that it's somewhat shaded, you will run into UV degradation issues. make sure there is no rust, properly apply a self etching or better yet epoxy primer, and then topcoat it with something else such as bedliner or any other product with UV inhibitors

 

You can always use POR15. Its great stuff!

 

My SA has a bit of rust in the wiper motor area mainly on the firewall side nothing major but I won't know how bad it is till I start digging it out.
I don't mind the bed liner idea but for whatever reason I wanted to remove it I don't think it will be that easy.
I'll have a look around for paint with UV inhibitors.

 

I've heard good things about POR15. I might have to give it a go, is it only good for bare metal or can it go over existing paint aswell?

 

Not a huge fan of POR 15 personally. It has its place but it's finicky to use, very messy, and expensive. If you don't follow the directions word by word it's not going to give you great results. To top it off, it's not UV resistant and will need to be topcoated

 

Yes it can go over existing paint, but it won't be affective as a rust preventer without attaching itself to prepared bare metal.

I love POR15. No UV protection, but a simple spray from a rattle can (If you are doing an area you're not gonna look at much) will stop any UV degrigation. And when you use POR15 there is the warm fuzzy feeling that you did all you can to give your vehicle the longest life possible.

 

Yea I read around and people are saying the same as you, if not prepared properly and you don't follow instructions it won't work the best.

How much is POR15 going for in america?

So its more like a primer than a top coat? Your right could get expensive if I have to buy basecoat and clear o something else to top coat it for an area you won't really see.

 

In the wiper motor area I'll be taken the rust back to bare metal
but it's a bit hard to get rid of all the paint in there it's not easy to get to
ill have to take the motor out to be comfortable to work in that area.

What's the POR15 like with heat as the wiper motor area might get warm from time to time?

That's exactly what I want something that's going to last as long as possible and be durable.

 

If you want to remove all the paint in that area, try soda blasting. It will remove the paint, not warp the metal, and wash away.

I say POR15 and then topcoat with the same paint as the body when you jam the rest of the car.

 

Yea Iv been messing around with my sandblaster lately on other panels and it beats sanding/grinding any day.
I just need a better compressor so I'm not always waiting for it to keep up and my neighbours don't have to listen to it rev its head off all day long lol

So you saying sandblast the whole area how can I paint the areas that are hard to get to, properly after I'm done?

 

The POR 15 will brush on. The topcoat (color) is another story. I'm not a body guy, but maybe get in a close as you can with a smaller gun. Another choice is bed liner that is tinted.

 

I purchased a quart for $50 at a local store, plus $2.00 for a spare can. If you don't clean the sealing surface of the lid completely due to the fact that POR15 outgasses as it dries it essentially seals the lid to the can permanently... I lost maybe half a quart of material because of this, even after pouring it into the new can . If you do pull the plug on POR lay it on real thin, otherwise you'll get lots of little bubbles in the finish. Otherwise, it looks good once it's done. I'm not saying I wouldn't ever use the product again as I most definitely would but it's not my favorite product.

You could call it a primer. I guess a better analogy would be saying it's similar to using epoxy primer. You can leave it as is and it'll do fine, but you really should use layer other products on top for the best finish. POR will tell you to buy their Tie-Coat (kind of like using high build over epoxy... except you don't need to sand IIRC) before topcoating. In reality, most people don't use tie coat before topcoating.

Hope this helps!

 

I thought It came in a can or you have to use a spray gun.
Would be heaps easier to brush it on, yea might have to use a touch up gun to get in there properly.
What if I Tared the area after painting or will that turn out 10x messier?

 

Might be double the price over here in Aus I'm not to sure...that sucks bro that's why I hate using canned paints if your not going to use it all in the one go, let a can sit for a bit after using it and you may as well throw it away.

The bubbles might be from solvent pop if there is any in POR I'm not sure and probably not letting it flash long enough between coats.
Thanks for the advice I never lay paint on too thick 1st coat will be a "dust" coat to get the pant to stick then the rest of the coats I worry about the coverage.
most people think the thicker you lay paint on the better but forget paint can crack if too thick.

Yea especially in the wiper motor area no ones going to really care how straight it is as long as the rust is gone. Sounds like just another product to get a bit of extra $$$ out of us lol

Thanks for the insight I'll have to read up a bit more on POR15

 

You can get POR15 in a box of 6 small tins. Saves the hassle of the product going hard

 

Thanks for the info.

I will probably use cans there's no point setting up the spray gun for a small area like that then having to clean the gun which is the worst lol

 

You shouldn't need POR15 in Melbourne. The factory deadening in that area is quite effective in our climate. On cars whose paint is well-maintained, the only places I've regularly seen 1st gens rust is the drainage holes in the hatch area, which is fairly easily fixed. The next most common areas are around the sunroof (on sunroof equipped cars) and the a-pillars.

We don't get the problems US cars have with the lower trailing arm mount area, as we have rear seats instead of the problematic metal frame used for the storage bins.

Is yours actually rusting in that area? If not, I will just leave it alone and respray, then make sure your drainage around the windscreen is working well.

 

kypreo your from Melbourne you might even know the car I got it a while ago was a purple series 1 rx7 on club reg from Frankston south area.

How would you spray the area?
Prime then same colour as the car or use something else?
Yea for sure rust in the rear hatch channel seems standard lol Iv seen It on a few rx7s too.

The rust isn't major in the wiper motor area just bad in some sports mainly firewall side
I don't have the car here atm to get a picture up.
Where abouts do I look for windshield drainage?

good to hear info from someone in the same country for once lol
I probably should have asked this question on ausrotary.

 

Hi I do recall seeing that car!

I'll preface this by saying I'm far from a panel & paint expert.

POR15 is very popular on this forum and on European car forums I visit. I think the main reason for that is that cars in these areas are far more prone to aggressive cancerous rust and that POR15 is a very effective rust preventative in hard to reach areas. Part of the reason is also that a lot more guys here are DIYers (which is part of the reason I love visiting this forum) and POR15 is easy to apply and a better solution than the labour and cost involved in mechanical rust removal, particularly when cars in these climates rust so bar that it gets between panel seams etc and the complete floor pans of cars.

In Melbourne, where we get no snow and no one is salting the roads and the climate is pretty dry, we simply don't have these same rust problems. I haven't driven my car properly in around 10 years, 3 of which were spent outside 100% of the time and the undercarriage looks factory new. If there is rust, you remove it, apply some rust converter, epoxy primer or etch primer, then top coat. That's usually enough to cure the problem. If the rust is particularly bad, you might pay someone to weld in some replacement steel.

Now, nothing stopping you from using POR-15, but it is expensive here and I just don't see the need if my 30+ year old car has done perfectly fine without it. Also, it is perfectly a complete bitch to remove if you ever need to. Others have suggested Brunox or zinc primers as a rust converter. You'll get a range of opinions.

Some reading for you:
AusRotary.com ? View topic - I don't like rust
AusRotary.com ? View topic - Opinions on POR 15, zinc powdercoat or epoxy as a primer.
AusRotary.com ? Information
AusRotary.com ? View topic - Underbody rust protection/prevention
AusRotary.com ? View topic - powder Coating or spray paint on Chassis
AusRotary.com ? View topic - Slow the rust....

 

I got the car 2 years ago and just planned on patching up the rust, respraying same colour and getting it on the road, wich slowly but surely turned into me wanting to respray the whole car, now I'm knee deep in body and paint lol.

i remember reading a thread on ausrotary where you posted a pic of a blue gen 1 you painted it come up mint.

POR15 is pretty popular among Americans that's for sure, you read about the stuff everywhere. I'm glad it's dryer in AUS would be a headache welding in new floor pans and whatever else had rusted out.

what's your undercarriage sprayed in? Like a stone guard or something. im dreading doing the under of my car, what's the best way you reckon do it once the outside is painted? Or paint the underside first? Sorry for all the questions.

I don't want something that's too hard to remove, your right my rust probably go real bad coz nobody repaired it when it first popped up, although I doubt most people look in the windshield wiper area often.

Youv steered me away from POR15, there's got to be something in AUS alot cheaper that does the same job. Thanks for the threads too ill have a read and see what people recommend.

 

Anyone ever just use zinc-rich primer on the under body - then just coat over that with some tar or rubber based deadener or something? I havn't, apart from times i want to rust proof a self tapping screw or nut-sert or something, but i do use it on everything that isn't car related (the zinc primer that is). Its good stuff. Says its epoxy based but it thins or cleans with Turps.

 

I think you might be getting confused with someone else - possibly Adsy, who is one of the other admin. He's painted plenty of his own cars before, but not me, although I do have a blue series 3. My series 3 still has the original factory deadener Mazda put on in Hiroshima. 100% perfect still. It still has mostly original paint, but it's getting pretty tired now and has rust in the hatch sill and a little spot at the bottom of one of the rear 1/4 windows.

A number of people on AusRotary have recommended what you said Wankfactor, zinc primer or epoxy followed by spray on rubberised deadener.

 

You both give out useful info on ausrotary that's probably why I got you 2 mixed up.
That's mad, lasted all this time and still doing its job, my cars been sprayed 2-3 times since factory and my inner wheel arches and undercarriage are a black stoneguard/rough finish is that factory or has someone redone it?

Mine had rust in same spots and a few other places. I don't know how the car was stored before I got it the guy reckoned he'd owned it for 17 years but who knows, it would have spent some time in japan as I think it's a savanna and had Tor of been imported at some stage by a previous owner. But from all the rust Iv found on the car so far I'm pretty happy with the condition of the body.

After reading through the threads I'm pretty sure I'm going to use that BRUNOX product if I decide to go down to bare metal I don't know how I'm going to go about it yet, can we get BRUNOX in melbourne?