1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

good exhuast setup for power?

Old 03-21-19, 08:12 PM
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good exhuast setup for power?

ive been looking at the complete exhuast from RB and im wondering what some good alternatives are for power? i plan on eventually rebuilding and streetporting my rx7 12a, but im most concerned with power from the exhuast instead of being overly concerned with the noise level (unless its stupidly loud), by the looks of it racing beats is the only show in town? what are my alternatives for exhuast set ups?
Old 03-21-19, 08:38 PM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Exhau...QAAOxyVLNS53J0


The ONLY exhaust that makes power.
Old 03-21-19, 09:36 PM
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id like to stay NA.
Old 03-21-19, 10:14 PM
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I just put a racing beat on mine. I'm going to be honest, I didn't like it at first but it seems to be better with some miles,maybe it has a break in period. The build quality is there the header is built like a tank. The muffler is very nice. I was pleased with the felt power increase.
Old 03-21-19, 10:24 PM
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power?.... racing beat heads are great but i wouldn't spend money on their new exhaust... doesn't sound good and looks cheap.. if i was putting together a NA exhaust i would get road race header and try to find the old style racing beat muffler two into one... and for the center i would just run straight pipe..... racingbeat sell duel flanges
Old 03-21-19, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rx71king2
power?.... racing beat heads are great but i wouldn't spend money on their new exhaust... doesn't sound good and looks cheap.. if i was putting together a NA exhaust i would get road race header and try to find the old style racing beat muffler two into one... and for the center i would just run straight pipe..... racingbeat sell duel flanges
the road race header from racing beat? i was looking at the dissasembled one. not sure where i would fine that muffler. now for s uper ingorant question, supposing i went that route, would i need a new carb, pump and tune?
or just tune?

ignorant question 2, how much do tunes generally cost?
Old 03-21-19, 11:08 PM
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^^^^That would qualify for "the stupidly loud" op is trying to avoid...
Op,if you're looking for bolt on best power/sound the RB streetport system is best bang for your buck. It'll last the lifetime of your car and then some. All the engine mods you can do will never max out the breathing capability of this long primary system. System is not inexpensive,by the time you cobble together something to make power and realize after the initial sound/noise the car has,after @100 miles you're over it. Even if you like driving with earplugs,you'll find the rotary power pulses and vibes will put an early end to your "system". If you look at repairing,redesigning to make it better,the cost of materials and if you're time is worth something to you...The RB system doesn't look so expensive for a tuned,one and done,never rust out,pleasant sounding system. Maybe you could buy a used system and save yourself some cash,look at classifieds on this site,post a want to buy there.

Look thru threads on this forum and elsewhere to see what the majority of people have tried to build for their cars and how it worked out. For certain members here will chime in on their experiences with and without RB stuff
Old 03-21-19, 11:16 PM
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If you have your original Nikki carb/pump,a tuned system wouldn't require any alterations to make more power out of the box. The Nikki is the best carb for your engine and lots of threads here on how to modify it for serious power upgrades.
Old 03-21-19, 11:36 PM
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so is the nikki good enough to get the most that i can out of the streetported 12a and exhuast? or should i look into something better?

thanks for the info on the RB system, i really dont want earplugs lol, some noise would be nice, but i dont want bleeding ears at cruising speed lol. that being said if i punch it noise can be nice XD
Old 03-21-19, 11:55 PM
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Look into threads on here about modifying the stock Nikki carb. You can try to pursue this yourself or inquire on the forum here for someone to modify it for you. There are several members here that are intimate with these carbs and know how to get the most power out of them while still retaining economy and good manners.
The exhaust,carb upgrades are good for @50% more power out of your engine than what it had when new. That’s a lot,going from stock 100hp to @150hp and up with no internal engine work.
There are ignition upgrades that can be done to enhance carb/exhaust mods further.

You can install the exhaust system and still drive and enjoy the car in stock trim and benefit from the increased power of better breathing,and this system has a mean sound to it when you have your foot in it to satisfy your need for “noise” but has a low mellow tone at idle and cruise speeds.

Last edited by GSLSEforme; 03-21-19 at 11:59 PM.
Old 03-21-19, 11:57 PM
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interesting, with a street port. and exhuast wouldnt i be looking at close to 50% gains? ill do more research but i think i saw the numbers hobering around there. something around 120 Whp
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Old 03-22-19, 12:05 AM
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150hp at engine,@120 whp could be about right.
There are several members here that have done these exact mods and when they read your thread will likely chime in with some of their own info.
Old 03-22-19, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Zenobia K'ael
the road race header from racing beat? i was looking at the dissasembled one. not sure where i would fine that muffler. now for s uper ingorant question, supposing i went that route, would i need a new carb, pump and tune?
or just tune?

ignorant question 2, how much do tunes generally cost?
google road race header..... like i said if you could find a slant cut old style racingbeat muffler sounds the out of all of them.....you might not be able to make it fast but you can make it quick...free flowing exhaust there's no way around it.......... yes these are noisy engines but to get full potential u gonna hav to make some noise

Last edited by JOE68; 03-22-19 at 01:06 AM.
Old 03-22-19, 08:20 AM
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1. Do the exhaust - RB SP setup is t he best for the bucks, even if the new muffler sounds less throaty
2. Upgrade your ignition to a DFIS on the leading. Lots of threads about that on here.
3. Upgrade your carburetor, either modify/strip the nikki or go weber. The modified nikki can keep up with a street port.
4. Electric fan

With these mods you will see approximately 50% more power. At one time my car posted 134 Whp on a stock 12A.
Old 03-22-19, 09:48 AM
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if you're really looking to max out the power of a stock engine, you need to do a lot of stuff.

1. you want the Rb dissassembled header. when RB assembles it, they cut right on the bends, and do some other funky stuff, you can fix it. pipe needs to come straight out of the engine for ~2"
2. the rest of the exhaust needs to be equal length. if one had nothing but time, you'd try a few different ones and see what works. 90" is kind of the standard, although RB recommends a little longer with a stock engine
3. the RB muffler flows fine, and is quiet, plus it fits the car.
4. ignition, you need new cap, rotor and wires.
5. spark plugs, use the Rx8 leadings, they are the racing plug in a street friendly heat range. they are just better. for trailing, either the GSL-SE plugs, or the FC/FD trailing is fine.
6. you need to look at other stuff, like ditching the fan. plus there are a bunch of under-drive pulleys, and there must be some street friendly combo
7. the nikki is very street friendly, many mods to make it flow more air, but if you're after max power, you need something else
Old 03-22-19, 10:02 AM
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Just to reiterate what others have said, Racing Beat sells a bunch of different options. Whether your car is street ported or not, you want the complete kit street port exhaust with the long primaries (doesn't collect until it enters the muffler). The only reason you would want anything else is if you are a) trying to pass emissions and need cats, b) installing a turbo c) want something loud and obnoxious, d) trying to maximize power for something other than a stock or typical street port, e) concerned more about weight than long life.
Old 03-22-19, 02:23 PM
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I wish I had gotten the RB Street Port setup. I got the stock-port single/short primary set and I'm very disappointed in the sound.
Old 03-22-19, 05:34 PM
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I think you’d be disappointed in that system too if it suffered the same fate as the system on your car now. It has no noise dampening ability at this point from being severely overheated.
I’m astonished all that damage occurred in the 15 minute window you state,i’d have imagined it would have more time on it.
I would think more than the header part of system was glowing like in your pic,was that pic taken after you shut it down as it looks like it’s cooling in that shot.
A lot of years ago I deliberately drove a 1st gen that was running poorly to get home to deal with an emergency there. About 20 miles. When I parked the car the exhaust was glowing orange red back to the muffler.
I had to move car into the street as it set the grass and leaves on fire under it. Though I had more pressing matters I had to lay down in street alongside car and hose down the floorpan and exhaust. I was afraid the heat was going to catch the carpeting inside car on fire. You couldn’t hold your hand flat on floor by seats for more than a few seconds.
Turns out the rubber hangers had lit and melted and started the grass fire when they dropped onto the ground.
Most of the system was junk from the heat and me spraying water on it trying to cool it off didn’t help,the cracking and popping sounds I heard finished it off. When I started the car next day to get it out of the street,it fell apart.

Maxwedge,as pissed as you probably are about your new exhaust system,be very glad there wasn’t anything combustible in close proximity to that car,it could have cost you your garage and everything in it at the least and your house if attached to it. Scary shi*.
Old 03-22-19, 06:04 PM
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That's it, 15 minutes. Actually about 45 minutes, but it was more off than running. 15 minutes total run time, and the car has not run a single mile on the street on that Holley carb. Look for it in the classifieds this weekend for $50 shipped. If it doesnt sell (like my beautiful FB rims) it will LITERALLY become an anchor for my fishing canoe. Yes, 15 minutes total run time, on ramps, in my garage, and the Holley-caust ruined my brand new RB exhaust. Put an out of the box Eddy on and it leaps off the stoplight from 1100 rpm idle. **** Holley. Well, **** this Holley anyway.
Old 03-22-19, 06:14 PM
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Maxwedge,curious as to origin of your screen name...as a old Dodge/Chrysler enthusiast I know what it means to me.
Old 03-22-19, 07:02 PM
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GSLSE,

When I was a kid my Grandfather (PopPop) had an ugly, loud, stinky car that he loved and my Grandmother hated. It was faded dark blue, had duct tape on one of the rear quarter windows, the trunk didn't close right, and it was a Plymouth Belvedere, which I thought was funny because of that stupid sitcom "Mr Belvedere" that was on at the time. My Mom-Mom said it drove terribly and the brakes didn't work, and wouldn't ever let him take us kids in it. But my Mom says he used to race people when they went grocery shopping, and he took it to car shows in the 70's (I'm a '72 model, myself).

When my Grandfather passed in '86 or '87 Mom-Mom put a "Best Offer" sign on the windshield and planned on letting it go for a couple hundred. First person that knocked on the door gave her $5K and drove it away. If I had known anything about cars back then (I think I was 14) I would have bought it. Pop Pop's 1963 Belvedere was a 413ci Max Wedge equipped, #'s matching "Super Stock" special that he ordered from Plymouth in '62. The car was rated at 410 hp / 480 lbft from the factory, had the batterty in the trunk, and ran mid 11's in the quarter mile (as delivered).

I've wanted one ever since I found out what Pop Pop's stinky old car really was, and Maxwedge has been my only forum name. These cars in good shape with common 383 and 440 big blocks sell every day for $40k, with the ultra rare 413 and 426 Max Wedge (and later 426 Hemi's) bringing over $100k at auction.

Vroom Vroom.

(pics are not my Grandfather's car, but the same year and motor)

Old 03-22-19, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxwedge
That's it, 15 minutes. Actually about 45 minutes, but it was more off than running. 15 minutes total run time, and the car has not run a single mile on the street on that Holley carb. Look for it in the classifieds this weekend for $50 shipped. If it doesnt sell (like my beautiful FB rims) it will LITERALLY become an anchor for my fishing canoe. Yes, 15 minutes total run time, on ramps, in my garage, and the Holley-caust ruined my brand new RB exhaust. Put an out of the box Eddy on and it leaps off the stoplight from 1100 rpm idle. **** Holley. Well, **** this Holley anyway.
what holley do u hav ? played with jetting ? pics of throttle plate lookin down ... ones that RB sells are garbage..... 390 4150 hp with no choke .. that's all i ever used and will kick the **** out of all others.... make them idle perfect at 8
Old 03-22-19, 07:23 PM
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I'm going to guess that you're Puerto Rican.
Old 03-22-19, 07:24 PM
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no i am not.......
Old 03-22-19, 07:28 PM
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Not meant as any kind of racist remark. My BIL is a Puerto Rican rotary bracket racer. He says that my car won't run is because it h as s a choke, and that I need a 600cfm racing Holley. But, he doesnt have any carbed cars, and doesnt know how carbs Or chokes work. He pays someone to tune his FI turbo motors with a laptop.

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