I have a gasket / seal kit for a 12A and I am wondering if I can use it to re-seal a Series 4 block.

 

I would assume it depends on which seals?

 

Yes:
Coolant o-rings
dowel pin o-rings
oil control o-rings
tension bolt seals
front/rear oil seals
waterpump housing gasket
oil pickup tube
oil pedistal o-rings, if 12A had an fmoc, with beehive need 4 0-rings
oil line banjo bolt crush washers to rear iro
oil line washer to front cover

No:
intake/exhaust
mop
oil pan

Maybe4:
front cover gasket
waterpump

by the time you buy the rneeded S4 gaskets, it's almost cheaper to buy the S4 gasket kit.

 

Thanks trochoid...

The NO part of the answer is all external gaskets, which I have anyways.

The mop = oil metering pump...? I believe that's just a o-ring anyways, and I have a big ol' kit of o-rings that always comes in handy.

I'm going to give this motor a whirl. I have two Series4 13B na's that both have no compression in the rear rotor.

 

I decided against re-doing the 13B's and instead decided to give a 12A I've had laying up for quite sometime a whirl, especially since the gasket kit is for this 12A.

Besides the fact I have not done a sucessful rebuild yet, the 12A ran fine before being pulled and laying her up. She had good compression accompanied by the leak of death / dowel pin leak btwn the housings...

Instead of mixing and matching parts, seals, housings, etc... I'm figuring take apart a known running motor and sealing it back up should be the easier route since I'm certianly the rebuild ROOKIE.

Any tips or advice you guys think might help before I give this a whirl. My buddie will be here later tonite to lend a hand and he's also the rebuild rookie like myself. So, any head ups would definatly be appreciated.

Motor is already stripped and work area is ready to go. Thanks.

 

That was actually pretty easy.

 

Question....

Once the motor is assembled, the way the Haynes manual describes...

Front rotor apex pointing up, rear rotor apex pointing down... How do I properly align the front pulley...?

Haven't gotten to that part yet and maybe it's self explainatory, but according to the book it says align the first mark on the pulley to the pin on the front cover. This is after it had already said to rotate the assembly to make sure everything is free moving...?

And I haven't rotated the assmebly to see if everything is free moving yet for this exact reason.

 

Did you separate the pully from the hub (remove the 4 10mm bolts)? If not, you just slap it back on (there is a key to get it in place).

If you did separate them, turn the flywheel so that the notch is at the inspection plate (the plate on the intake/exhaust side of engine). This will put the engine at TDC. Now put the pully back on and the leading mark should line up (or come close) to the timing pin. There are a couple other ways to do it too (especially with the hub off).

 

Nice... Thanks Addict.

And no I didn't remove the pulley from the hub.

 

Any chance your gonna port the irons & housings before putting it all back together?...

 

That's my question too. Now's the time to at least clean up the port runners, but I'd do a street port, headers and exhaust while it's apart.

 

No porting. If this one runs after putting it back together then maybe I'll port the next one.

60 something on the front and 70 on the rear...?? Do you think she'll start, run and build up a better #...? This was bench testing it, well... floor testing it w/a transmission and a starter hooked up off a jumper pack for just a couple of swooshes per rotor. And yes w/a piston compression tester.

All the hard seals, springs, bearings, etc were NOT replaced, but all went back where they orginally came from.

I wish I would of taken a compression test before I cracked her open.