does anyone know where to buy fusible links online, new ones..mine are 30 years old so I figure i would buy some new ones, or would it just be easier to put the 2nd gen. fuse block in its place?

 

its really up to you as to if you want to install an FC fuse block. 30 years old or not they're probably still good and will be until you have a surge. the only place i know to get them new would be the dealer or mazdatrix http://www.mazdatrix.com/79-85Electrical-Chassis.htm. other than that i always pick up spares in bone yards.

 

You can put fuses into your block - no need to change anything - the link is in FAQ

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=4125752&page=2

 

well the electrical is completely dead no power anywhere with new battery i checked the fusebox inside the car and all the fuses are fine and i did some research and i found that these are problematic and a good place to start when there is electical gremlins and i cleaned jiggled and that didnt and i found these can rot and fail due to age so i figured i'd replace them or replace with an FD fusebox...but i need the car to run because it's going to be my primary mode of transportation

 

25 years of RX-7s, and I've only blown one fusible link (that was when an oak branch fell on the RF fender and jammed the headlight, and I blew that link).

Fusible links are slow-blow. And they're easy to check without even unplugging: you just use your voltmeter at each end of the thing. I wouldn't change to fuses, it's just another headache to convert and a headache to replace the fuse.

You can get spares at the junkyard. They usually sell the link material in a bubble pack at the autostore. Sometimes they have the assembled link, too.

 

would replaceing the links change anything or are there other electical issues with first gens that would be causeing me to have no power?

 

i would first start by making sure your battery is hooked up properly and that all connections are clean and tight. next, check the fusible links. you'll be able to tell is one has popped. usually when it pops, the cover melts, exposing the frayed wire. you can also check using a multimeter as stated or by removing the link and feeling it with your fingers to make sure its solid. you will also want to check your grounds. check the one at the left strut tower and at the bellhousing. check them for cleanliness. if they are scummy, which they probably are, remove the bolt, clean teh eyelits and grounding point and the bolt and reassemble.

 

wait where does the ground run?
it appears the one thats curently on there runs to over by the radiator..with a clamp and runs down the front of the car which didnt strike me as correct....but not entirely odd and i did look for another wire in the area but i didnt see one anywhere and i know the positive works because there is a direct wire running from the positve terminal and wrapped around fuses 8 & 9 on the fusebox inside the car and that gave power odviously to the ignition and starter then i inspected it further and took that off for odvious reasons and relized the car was now dead electrically

 

one ground is on the driver side strut tower, i believe it also grounds once more along that wire.

 

The second Rx-7 that I bought had a fusible link that was blown but would make contact 99% of the time. It made the car very unreliable as the owner would get stranded. After I got it home, I found the issue and was of course an easy fix. So while they may be reliable, I still like the option of putting a fuse in there...

Scott

 

Go to autozone and you can get replacement fusible links. The y don't look the same but they plug in directly to the SA fuse block.

Heres a picture of my engine and on the lower right theres a light blue/green block of color by the shock tower. Thats the side of a fusible link plugged into the fuse block. I think I used 2 30s and a 60 amp for them.



Heres a link to the autozone part but I think if you look in the eletric aisle there's cheaper ones. I don't remember paying 15 bucks a peice for em.

http://www.autozone.com/N,15700361//...eResultSet.htm

 

Fuses can have exactly the same problems as links, namely, poor contacts because of corrosion. In fact, I've had more problems with fuses than with links. I've cannibalized JY fuseboxes for the copper blade contacts to replace burned and corroded contacts in my 83 fusebox.

A spray can of Contact Cleaner can be very useful.

 

okay..so the groud that was on there is actually for the drivers side front turn signal....so where is the ground thats spost to be there, like where does it orginate from i could find it. and i looked in the hanes repair guide..

 

TG, what belts did you use on your relocation kit? I cant sem to get two belts the same, so one is always loose. Sorry for the highjack.

 

I just bought two belts of the exact same kind, whatever O'Reilly had. I didn't really notice that they were different sizes. Seemed identical to me. I really don't need a dual belt on the relocation, it solves the slipping problem with one belt but I had dual belted RB pulleys on the main and the alternator so I just put a new set back on.

7375 Gates XL 11A0955

Now back to your regular thread content on fusible links.

 

i have offically concluded that it is improperly grounded causeing the circuit to be incomplete, however i do not know where to ground it to...suggestions?

 

"improperly grounded", so is it corroded, loose, what? Can't you just restore the ground to what it should be?

 

The stock ground normally goes from the negative of the battery to a bolt on the left lower shock tower inside the engine compartment and then continues on to the starter. Theres also a ground for each of the lights and one for the dash up under there someplace and one that goes from the last muffler mount to the muffler. I think thats all the grounds I can think of. The FSM is your friend

 

okay the fusible link on the starter selioid...would that cause the car to be totally dead?

 

I don't know. Which link is it? When you pull it out does anything change?

 

well its green and runs from the starter selinoid to a blue wire with a yellow stripe up to the mass of wires inside the black casing then appears to come out in the steering colum

 

Are you sure that the wire isn't blue with a white stripe? According to the wiring diagrams, it is for the hot start assist relay. This has nothing to do with it not starting. The hot start assist just hold the throttle down during hot starts for easier starting.

You need to poke around with a voltmeter and see where you are getting power. There should be a wire that goes: battery (+) --> fusible link block --> to igniton switch and fuse box inside the car. The main link (center) carries this power. The other two links are for the headlights and headlight motors.