1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

fusable link inside engine bay.

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Old 04-23-06, 01:55 AM
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fusable link inside engine bay.

I hooked up my stereo not to long ago. great wahoo all the cheers....

and ive been doing good with it. turns on battery grounded out everything.

but im having trouble like something is shorted out. well trying too anywase.

i can run my radio fine. then it has it times it drains the battery dead.

then my fusable link starts smoking. in the engine bay. anybody know what size fuses I should be using also. its 3 fuses inside the engine bay by the coils.

well. It drained the battery dead tonight and I went to turn it over.

dead...

next thing I know the fusable link is smoking. the wires are getting hot.
So I take the key out. rip the wires out, and havent touched it anymore.

So im wondering if that would be it shorting something.

and also what fuses should I be using.



------
- - <---fuse box.. I only have wires on there and its not working for me.
- -
- -
------
Old 04-23-06, 02:03 AM
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If the wires or links are smoking, the battery is not dead. You have something wired wrong.
Old 04-23-06, 02:07 AM
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you can use the modern fusiable links lil plastic box that fits nicely in the fuse box there on any civic etc and come in pink any autostore has them
i used 30amp60amp30amp
and havent had problems
Old 04-23-06, 08:04 AM
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What?

 
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Change and upgrade to a 2nd gen fuse box. Very easy and you can get them for around $20.
Old 04-23-06, 08:58 AM
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I just did this upgrade using modern fusible links. Here's another thread about it that I used for instructions. It was spot on.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/fusible-link-conversion-thread-443820/

Went to Advance Auto parts. The fusble links are $2.77 each. Got 2 30 amp and 1 60 amp. Also got spares. It took about 37 seconds per link to change out (this includes tearing into the packaging)! It was so incredibly easy. Everything works great!
Old 04-23-06, 12:52 PM
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thx. my luck somone posted that in time legkcen.

I was wondering about that,
Old 04-23-06, 09:38 PM
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well I got the 3 fuses from autozone. 30 45 and a 30.

redid all the wiring on the stereo.

ran new speaker wire from the rear of the car on each side.

it works great now. only problem im having is the lights lol.

everytime I turn my stereo up really high. my lights will dim a tiny tiny bit and dim with the stereo beat.

only the inside lights.

thx for the info on the fuses. my windows work 20x faster now and everything else.

I dunno what that has to do with the wire but everything is more powerful.

I guess the wire was limited usage.
Old 04-23-06, 10:02 PM
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The fusible links weren't your problem. Your rewiring job is what fixed your problem.

Be aware that the fusible links are designed with a specific current rating to protect the more expensive parts of the electrical system. Everyone doing the link mod is guessing at what the current rating should be, potentially risking the other parts of the system.

Last edited by purple82; 04-23-06 at 10:11 PM.
Old 04-23-06, 10:30 PM
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There is a thread floating arond some where that states the correct sizes are 30-60-30 amps.
Old 04-23-06, 10:36 PM
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yep iv seen it
they had worked out the formula to find out amps from the gauged fuseable links which is 30.60.30 as in my first posty
Old 04-23-06, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
There is a thread floating arond some where that states the correct sizes are 30-60-30 amps.
Yeah, that's a guess. If someone did a test on the links with instrumented equipment to find their true failure current, that would be believible data. Or if there was a spec on the original links, that would be good information. As it is, there's no way to know what the intended current draw is.
Old 04-23-06, 10:42 PM
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Found this in the other thread.

According to the Manual:

1.25=45 Amps
.30=20 Amps
.50=30 Amps
.85=35 Amps
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