I've heard of people running premix and occasionally a full premix.

I picked up another FB yesterday and it's consuming oil pretty bad and leaking everywhere. I'm curious if by "full premix" this means run the pan dry and just mix oil in with gasoline? What kind of oil should i be using, two stroke i assume? What part oil to what part fuel?

 

HELL NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Absolutely not!!!! Do not let your oil run low under any conditions or your motor will be toast. Premixing is just something to be done if the OMP is questionable or has been removed.

The crankcase oil is still needed to lube areas that are not accessible to the gas. Also, something like 30 - 40% of the engine cooling is handled by the oil. Keep it filled to the proper level.

Where is the engine leaking oil from?

 

in 2000 post you have not learned basic rotary principals!!!!
run the pan dry!!!! WTF. are you crazy man?

 

Sounded crazy to me too, that's why i asked. I obviously misunderstood, i assume premix everything is kept in tact, with a "full premix", the OMP is removed.

My OMP is definately questionable, when i floor my car, let off the throttle and press it again, it pours a cloud of oil out my exhaust so thick i literally can't see behind me.

A better question is "Where isn't my car leaking oil from?", i'm not sure what's actually sealing, there's oil everywhere.

 

Sounds like you need a re-build. Pre-mix won't fix any of youre problems. Your oil-seals are shot.

Time to crack open the engine.

 

I assume that what you mean is, you take it up to high rpms then let off and see a cloud of smoke behind you. This would be your oil control rings giving up the ghost. I had this same issue, and found a "temporary" fix that might work for you too.

Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer, use two quarts in place of motor oil. Cleared mine up in all but the most extreme cases of abuse. Of course, only a replacement of the rings will truly fix this issue. Good luck.

 

It's not when i let off, it's when i press the throttle again, like the OMP is sticking. It may just be carbon blowing out, the previous owner said the guy before him ran it forever without an air filter, the guy before me said he put seafoam in it, but never started it after sitting for months. It just doesn't seem to be clearing up and i've driven it almost 300 miles.

 

One thing I haven't been able to figure out. When premixing and removing the omp, will the shaft that the drive gear for the omp is on spin up against the block off plate? I have heard of putting dimes in there but it doesnt sound like a good idea to me. You will still have metal on metal contact. I have thought about just leaving the omp on there but removing the guts so it spins freely and doesn't try to pump oil.

can someone shed some light on this subject?

 

i just jabbed two bolts where the OMP lines usually come out of the block and left the other two as normal. the oil pressure wont raise with throttle but there still is a bit coming in, ofcourse im also pre-mixing, but until i can get the damn OMP rod for the holley to fit right this is how its going to go.

basically, i dont see many benefits from removing the OMP entirely unless its dead...

 

is it a bitch to make a OMP rod that works with a holly? i have a Holly 600 (i think) 4bbl on my car, no OMP rod, and i'm mixing AMSOIL Synthetic 2 stroke in my gas, 1 oz/gallon.

 

I bet you $$ its your oil seals on the rear rotor; and not the OMP.

 

I used a 1/8" piece of aluminum sheet. I hope the spinning shaft doesn't wear a hole through it some day.