I just got my GSL-SE the other day. The car is bone stock. I do however have one question regarding why on earth the fuel line is setup this way. The car is essentially a one owner, I have all the service records, but nothing eluding as to why the send / return fuel lines would have a tube bridging them. The cars idles and runs awesome, no problems at all. Any guesses as to why someone would have done this in the past? Can someone post pics of their fuel lines in the same area?

 

That's bizarre. Maybe it's their way of regulating fuel pressure?

Maybe they just want to make it more difficult to get the oil filter off.

 

I don't know but it seems like a bad idea. You would think that you'd be short circuiting the engine since the fuel would just keep going through the return line??

 

The image is blocked on my computer, but I think you are talking about something that looks like this:



If so, that is a bleed kit that Mazdatrix sells. It is a band-aid for leaking injectors. It has a small hole (pin-hole) that connects the feed with return. When you shut the car off, it allows the fuel pressure to bleed off so your injectors won't leak.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm

 

^ +1 That what i was thinking

 

So.. if that's what it is, is there another way to deal with leaking injectors? I really don't like that system on the car, but will leave it if there is no other solution.

 

Few options:
- leave it the way it is
- take it off, change nothing. Maybe the injectors are okay?
- have the injectors cleaned, rebuilt, tested for leakage
- remove the bleed kit, install a fuel pump cut-off switch. If it floods, you can kill the pump and crank 'till it fires. Really just another band-aid, but comes in handy.
- buy new/rebuilt injectors

 

Thanks for the info.

Looking at the MazdaTrix picture I can see that the H-block from them is not on my car. It looks more like I just have a T-connector between the supply/return line. I'm just going to remove it and see how the car drives.

More thoughts are welcome!

Thanks

 

take off the loop line and look at the T connectors, bet you will find an orific in there to limit flow.




Can you put a switch on the fuel pump and then turn it off to shut down the car?

 

I would take it off, and see how the car runs/starts after that.
If it floods than you'll know you have a injector problem.
Then you can send them out for service or just replace them.

 

Sure.

I have a switch on mine. Usually I don't have problems starting, but a few times when it flooded out, it really came in handy. One time I was turning arond and stalled the car, tried to start and didn't catch right away (on the side of the road, almost in the road) and flooded. Flip the switch off, floor it, crank 'till she fires, and flip the switch back on and you'll be on the road again.

 

I talked to the previous owner, he said the shop installed this to sort out any flooding issues. I guess I'll leave it in place as the car runs great.

 

Ive always had good luck getting my injectors cleaned and clecked out.

If you can find a local diesel repair shop,it will save you the hassel of sending them out to EFI specialty shops like RC Engineering.There are advantages to getting your old injectors fixed besides just the flooding issue.Idle and run quality as well as fuel consumption can suffer when the injectors arent firing right,not to mention simply replacing them can cost hundreds of bucks for EACH injector.Typically,my local diesel shop has them done in 1 day at about 25 bucks per injector.Its more work/time to just get to the injectors on rotaries!

 

Thats one of handy features about the S5-later engines.....they have a deflood feature built into the ECU.Whenever you floor the gas and crank the starter,the ECU cuts the injector pulsewidth down to zero to allow the engine to clear itself......not that my S5 engine has ever flooded.Fresh injectors and good compression make a big difference in ensuring quick startups.

 

Good idea. I want to pull the injectors in the next couple of weeks and get them tested/cleaned. I'll have to track down a diesel repair shop in the area, hopefully they can accommodate. Thanks for the info.

What do you think about running FC plugs in the FB. meaning not the 4-prong but the plug w/o prongs.

 

If you're not in a hurry, here's a good deal.

 

Not too much of a hurry.. this weekend once the drivetrain fluids are changed I'm going to get it out on the road for a couple of hours. The last few years it's just been started up and moved, not much more. I'm debating the Steam/Seafoam cleaning too. I'm going to run some Seafoam through the next couple of tanks of fuel, then change the plugs, cap, and rotor.

 

Running the FC plugs is OK,but Id only do it if your also running the FC coils.The FC coils are an economical alternative to aftermarket units when converting to direct-fire.They are the same for all 86-92 2nd gens and they deliver enough juice to keep 400-500HP cars happy.