Hi Everyone, Nikki Carb. 1980 rx 7 sat in garage for 5 years. Drained gas tank and put in fresh. Fuel pump works. Carb bowl has fuel (through sight glass). Only runs when I manually splash a little gas in the carb, then dies as soon as that burns out. I tried a syringe to force Sea Foam into the inlet gas line, but it comes right back out through the return line. I plugged the return line and tried again with the syringe: it will NOT push it through when return is plugged. This syringe test was done with the key off, never tried it with key on.

When I push on the accelerator pedal, I don't see any gas spray into the carb barrels. Should fuel spray out into the carb even when the motor is not turning? I have not yet seen any fuel enter the barrels. Is there a solenoid that is stopping the flow of fuel between the bowl and the barrels?

My guess is that this is something very simple ! I greatly appreciate any feedback. I would hate to pull it all off and rebuild if it is likely something much easier and simple.
Thanks!
CPenn

 

carb needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

 

Thanks. I figured that was likely inevitable. Any recommendation on a carb kit?

 

Atkins Rotary has one for $90 has everything needed, seemed like a left $50 in parts in the bag though... I just checked at Oreilly's and they have one ($40) but the gasket between the airhorn and main body was the wrong one for my carb, and they only give you one.... other than that I was waiting til the morning to check with NAPA and Autozone

 

I used a Hygrade rebuild kit for my rebuild, I didn't have any problems. Most people recommend not replacing the float needles and seats, because supposedly they are machined improperly.

 

Thanks everyone. Great tip on the needles and seats. O'reily's has Hygrade. I guess i'll start pulling it off......

 

Got the carb off fairly easily. Check this out. Does this bolt disconnect from the banjo bolt? I bent the clip up and turned the entire unit out of the carb after I gave up on removing the bolt. I just won't budge, made me wonder if it is once single piece or not. See photo. Thanks

 

Your image didn't post CPenn... do you know the name of the part you are referring?

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/ma...01979-1985.pdf
look through this manual and let us know what page/what number the part you are talking about

 

Page 47, number 1. It sure looks like that bolt separates from the rest of that bolt based on the diagram. Here is the picture again for a second try:

 

yes it's supposed to separate at the banjo fitting. some dummy tightened it way too much.

 

<br />Okay, I'll keep spraying with penetrating oil and tapping for a few days before I try to remove it again. If that fails, do you see any problem with heating the fitting with a torch? I don't see any rubber or plastic, and I can blow out all the fuel residual first. The piece is already removed from the carb so no risk to the carb. Thanks

 

that crush washer is aluminum and will melt before anything gets red hot. what i would do is put the larger hex portion in a vise. use a couple of spacers on each side to keep the jaws from contacting the threads. then use vise grip pliers to grip the smaller bolt around the bigger diameter just behind the washer. if u still feel the need to use heat, keep it more on the larger hex portion.

 

10-4. I'll give it a shot this weekend. Thanks.

 

You may find debris in the fittings at the top of the float chambers. They have fine strainers that get clogged easily.

 

Jebus, who mangled that boor bolt haha . Take pictures I'm going to rebuild mine too! . My carb is smelly now too, every time it floods it smells like gas..

 

I mangled that poor bolt ! But I did end up getting it off with greater patience and much penetrating oil. It was on super-tight. If I can't find a replacement by the time I put it back together, I might just weld a nut to it so that it will be easier for the next guy......plus I won't tighten it as much as the last guy did.

The rebuild kit comes this week. I'll try and post some pictures as I go through the process. And I'll probably wind up with more questions.

I have another question. Anyone know about this altitude compensator valve on the 1980 model? Here it is: https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/7...61-13-770.html

Can I remove it and plug the holes? I found a great set of instructions for altitude compensation valve removal at fox, but it looked completely different from what I have. This threads into the intake manifold and the tube connects to the carb.



Thanks.

 

I have noticed several discussions on past threads about the number of check ***** and weights. For this 1980 model, there are two of each.

I'll post pictures of the rebuild later. I took countless photos. Every time I took something off, I snapped a photo of where it belonged, along with all the linkages. Saved my tail as I'm putting it back together.

No ideas on the altitude compensation valve? I guess that means I should order a new one just to be careful.

 

Now that I think about it, I remember one of those valves on my SA when I first got it. I was so freaking confused as to what it was, because on the mine the plastic nipple had broken off (unbeknownst to me at the time) and so it just looked like a cap with a hole in it on a valve. Dang, that's crazy, until now I've never known what that thing was, lol. I mean, it's long gone at this point, but hey, I just learned something new.

Getting back to your question, are you asking if you need one? Do you know where it's supposed to go? If not, it threads into the intake near the base of the carb on the engine side. I'm not sure if all SA's had it, and I also don't know where the other end routes to. I'd check your intake manifold to see if something is missing (it would be a fairly large threaded hole if it were). I'd say that if you don't see an empty, decent sized threaded hole, don't worry about it. If you do, maybe pick one up and see how it goes. Pardon the lack of a real answer .

 

RE: th altitude compensator valve. Supposedly it adjusts for changes in altitude, Unless you will be driving in the mountains some of the time and at lower elevations some of the time, it does nothing.

 

Okay everyone, thanks for all of your input and help. I ended up just fixing the old altitude compensation valve by using JB Weld on the broken plastic part. I got the carb put back together, and all I can say to those who do this in future is to take LOTS of pictures. Every time you are taking something off, point to the component of interest in the photo. Other than that, I don't really have anything new to add that is not already on older posts. After stripping it, I soaked the carb in simple green, but still had to use carb cleaner on the jets and orfices to get it really clean. Compressed air helps. Don't mix up the location of the jets, make a drawing and set them on it. Use a toothbrush. Soak carb in a bucket and don't pour it out until you are sure you have the check weights and *****. I did not change the needles or seats.

I put it on and it started right up. However, the low idle needed adjusted. So the next night I went out to do that, made a small adjustment, fired it up, and then while running, all firing stopped, not a stall out of fuel, but no firing. All of a sudden, I lost spark. Anyway, that is a new problem, and a new post. Thanks again.