1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so Im redoing the suspension in my 7 (1985 GSL) and Ive got the whole front end torn out. Anyway, I bought new struts/springs, balljoints, tie rod ends, idler arm bushings, pitman arm, and controll arm bushings.

Now my question is: Should I be replacing anything up top??
I noticed that the upper mount that allows the strut to pivot is fairly loose on the strut, and I wasnt sure if I should just torque the strut bolt down a bit, or if I need to replace the little washerlike pieces from it, or if it just likes to be a little loose for when the suspension pivots?

I also noticed that there was no "adjustment plate" between the upper mounting plate and the body of the car (it should have come off with the mounting plate right?...or do they tend to stick to the body and I just wasnt looking hard enough).


Anyways, to sum it up I basically just need to know what to do about the loosey goosey strut mounting plate, and If I should get the "adjustment plates". If I should get the adjustment plates, how should I go about placing them in the car.

Also. Just to let all of you know, I decided to replace everything up front because my car had a nasty habbit of munching the inside half of the tire (perhaps due to no adjustment plates?) Anyways, I know one of you guys will get me goin again! so thanks in advance.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Oh yah, I forgot to mention that the car probably hasnt been aligned in a long long time, and the PO did manage to bump one of the tension rod brackets prety good. So, before digging into the project I assumed the tires were getting eaten because it was no longer true in alignment.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Strut top should not be loose, at all. If your tension rod bracket is bent, you may want to replace it and the rod before alignment Check the sway bar too.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

So do I just tighten up the top strut bolt, or do I need to buy the little washers...and what about the adjustment plates...are they necessary????

When I got my car safetied my dads friend told me that it should be fine just to adjust the tension rod since it didnt seem to be bent to badly, or off in any wild direction. The rod itself is perfectly straight, one side is just adjusted a little further forward to bring the wheel back into the center of the wheelwell, nothing major there.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You need the trust washers so the strut housing can rotate when the wheel is turned. If the the plates are missing, find some.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Ive read that the plates can cause problems unless they are installed properly, so when I put them in how should I reference them? They are used for adjusting camber? which may have had contributed to the tire wear I noticed too right?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Check the suspension section of the FSM, it will show how to orient the strut top to adjust cater and camber, if you can find the arrow.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

This may be a good alternative at this time.

www.racersareme.com

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

What would it take to switch over to the adjustable style camber plates shown above with a stock strut setup?

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

They are bolt in, they use spherical bearings to locate the top and mount to the stock bolt holes.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Ok..Im not trying to be post crazy here. Just trying to get this all, lol. I read over the FSM and understand a bit about how the camber and caster adjustments work, but Im just not sure if Ive got this all right... From looking at the FSM, I get the impression that the mounting plate is what adjusts the camber and caster and not the "adjustment plate".
I have my mounting plates marked as they were, but since I had some prety bad tire wear Im not sure if they are oriented as they should be.

If I look at the mounting plate should I be able to see some sort of marking which indicates which position is A,B,C, or D, or are the letters positions on the car?
Also, what is the indicating mark on the opposite part?

Secondly, Is the adjustment plate just for height adjustment on each side or does it also contribute to the camber and caster of the wheel? I guess Im just asking this, because if the car sits level and it doesnt effect the alignment, what does it matter if I have them or not? In my mind the alignment of the mounting plate would be all that mattered.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone help me here?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

A B C D are imaginary. The triangle in the rubber determines the orientation point, which is molded into the mounting plate. As far as the spacer goes, I have no answer on that. Castor will not affect tire wear, camber some, toe in much more so.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Thanks trochoid, youve been much help. I totally feel silly now, I went and cleaned out the little grove where the triangle is, I just really didnt expect it to be there. Definately makes much more sense now that I see the marking.

My problem now is the fact that its not the thrust washer or whatever causing the sloppiness, its actually the bearing in the mounting block thats causing the trouble. Since the bearing looks prety much poured in with urethane and black dragon cat. doesnt have a bearing for it, I need new mounting blocks dont I? Hmmmm. Im so considering the camber plates...anyone care to share opinions on these with stock struts? Worth it?

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Ok. Post whoring at its finest but

Can anyone tell me if the adjust plates listed in the Black Dragon catalog page 65 are a stock part? heres a link
http://blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/rx/0065.html part #40.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I'll be an SOB, the question on the adjusting plates threw me, so I had to dig out the FSM. Per the 85 FSM, Sec. 13, p. 8, it shows the adjusting plates. I don't recall ever seeing them, but they are there. And guess what they are used for? Adjusting of course. LOL.

Once the struts are installed and the car back on the ground, you measure the height of the center of each headlight. If they differ by more than .59", you add an ajusting plate. No more than 2 per side.

If your car didn't have them, put it back together and measure the height. Order them as needed.