ATC529R

So, it's a 1980 with a v8 and RB springs and I forget the shocks, but they are the softer of two main options. Also have Supports going from strut towers to the firewall where the hood latch is. Also the car has no power steering and all new componens, from ball joints, rod ends etc, etc.. RB front sway bar too, and 50 profile tires on 16" rims, 5 lug conversion yadda yadda.

Still, this thing rides rough in the front, you feel each reflector you hit on the road, it seems a bit clanky if thats a word, like there should be bushings or rubber between the springs hit the strut tower. I grease the heck out of top and bottom of springs to eliminate squeaks or whatever.

The wheel also seems to have a bit more play than I like even though everything is new. I gotta remember this is a 40 year old car with almost nothing stock.

Any advice would be appreciated to smoothen the suspension out and tighten the steering up.

ATC529R

Also have Wheel spacers as well, which might amplify the problem as the wheels are durther out and have 5 lug conversion with the adapter on the spindle. So I am thinking.....wheels out further, on small spindles, strut tower to firewall probably amplifies the feeling and RB/stiff springs make it harsh and the wheel, with no power steering feels everything. would really like to soften it up, but need the heavy springs for v-8.

harder shocks might soften the impact on the stiff springs, but I don't see it doing much. any bushing supposed to go between springs and top plate they touch?

Freeskier7791

how much shock travel do you have? I bet you are hitting the bump stops and they are stiff

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

Too much weight up front and likely sitting on the bump stops that you slid onto the strut shafts during installation. Many people trim these an inch or so when installing the RB springs, but with your added weight the front is probably sagging even further.

ATC529R

I have not measured travel, but i'd say a few inches. The ride height is perfet, and I am pretty sure it's KYB shocks. I'm not sure what/where the bump stops are on the front. I did not trim anything. I know the bump stops in the rear, but don't remember any on the front. The shock cartridge just slid in and then screw on the cap.The assembly is from an 84 I believe as it was a 5 lug conversion. It's not a bottoming out issue, it's a HARD ride issue. Thinking of changing the shocks, but if someone has links or pictures of these bump stops I would love to see them and/or assembly diagram. I have google, but have not come up with either.

Easily adjustable (you can get to it) shock recommendations are also welcome.

Thank you.

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

When you assembled the front, the bump stop was probably stuck inside the dust boot so you didn't notice. Share a photo of the car so we can see the ride height. If you drop more than 1" to 1.5" you are most definitely going to smack the bump stops on even light bumps, especially with all that weight up front running springs intended for a much lighter front end. Long story short, you don't have a shock issue, you have a spring rate and travel issue.

ATC529R

After searching and searching the only option I see is the Koni's from racing beat, and they're probably on the shelf 10 years. that and the other options require moifications and are questionable to fit.

I know there is no rubber/damper between the spring and the top retaining plate.

I plan to put a thick rubber between the spring and retaining plate. (think the thickness of a tire, small wagon tire or something I will cut to fit. I'll also put a small rubber inside the tube where the insert goes (think like 1/2 the thickness of the sway bar rod bushing since I have many of those from replacing them) in and make sure there is is a rubber on the top of the shock. I cleaned the boots, so anythingin there would be installed, or at least I think so.

So, a little rubber below the strut, rubber between spring and top plate and robber on top to shock mount.......provided there is none there. It may move the ride height up 1/4-1/2 inch tops, probably about a 3rd. This should soften the initial jarring feeling on small bumps.

I'll let you know how it turns out. may take a couple weeks as I have to raid dads garage when I am over there for all his odds and ends. lol

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

In my experience, KYB struts have always been super stiff on all applications.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

I think that Chuyler1 is on to something and I think you are riding on the front bump stops. This will be most noticeable on small bumps and pavement ripples. When you are on the bump stops actual spring rate is determined by the durometer hardness of the bump stop not the spring. In effect you don't have a functioning suspension.

ATC529R

can someone PLEASE, PLEASE show a picture or link to these front bump stops. I'll probably take apart this weekend, so would like to know

Thanks.

ATC529R

test

ATC529R

In the top right of this picture you see the black ring as well as whit ring inside of the spring top retainer. These ar NOT on mine. I assume the bump stop everyone is referencing is on the strut rod in that picture. I can't tell if mine has it, as the boot is installed, but we'll see.

ad idea the name of those 2 rings so I cn order them?

ATC529R

think I figured it out

Moog K6203-2 Coil Spring Insulator.....at 3.70 delivered from amazon ...lol

GSLSEforme

The "black ring" is upper spring insulator. There is no white ring. That image is where the spring insulator has been sitting in spring seat and is clean and the inner marks are where dirt and corrosion have discolored the spring seat.

8871-34-111A is Mazda part# for strut bumper,discontinued. I was able to purchase a pair of these 4 years ago,you may get lucky and find them in stock at a Mazda dealer. Google the # and images of bumper will come up. Google upper strut bumper and images of many different bumpers come up,you could use something similar sized or buy something close and cut to dimension you need. The bumper is a snug fit on strut shaft. If you found something close you could make up the difference with duct tape on strut shaft to hold bumper in place at top of shaft.

FA-01-34-102 is Mazda part # for spring insulator,discontinued. Google upper strut spring insulator,Summit Racing pops up and they have many different types of spring insulators. Measure your spring top and compare your pic of oe insulator to different ones on Summit site that gives dimensions of each one. You will have to improvise,get creative to substitute other parts for what you need,it can be done.
These are Niche cars and replacement parts began to disappear long ago. Look on Ebay,you might be able to find these parts used,or buy complete used struts to get pieces you need,if reasonable.

I too believe collapsed springs are your biggest issue,replacing the missing,worn parts is addressing only part of he problem and likely change nothing and destroy replacement bumper in short order. You need to address spring rating for the weight your car is carrying in front.
You're not going to find springs to fit your oe struts to support weight of your engine. Accept this and look for an alternative,coil overs. Likely can find some used,lb weight springs you need could be fitted and ride height could be adjusted,strut insert would need to be matched to lb weight of springs.There is a V8 forum on the site,i don't frequent it much but i'm sure you can get specific info you need regarding spring/strut selection and insight from others who have been where you are.

A pic of my struts ready for reassembly. The strut bumper is in its bag in front of strut mount,not a clear pic,only one i have.

ATC529R

Thank you for the reply, greatly appreciated. I am 99% sure those bump stops are on there as the front is jacked up now and I could not pull down the boot, plus thats just not something you throw away.

Will update this weekend after putting on the spring insulator (gotta love amazon 1 day delivery :-) and pehaps a rubber bushing under the strut insert.

ATC529R

Update. I installed the spring insulators above where they should be. Between the strut mount bracket and body. I can see the rubber. Took the shocks out. Man they are shot. I can easily push them in one handed and the barely if even come back out. I guess 3 year of a v8 build sitting on them will do that. Combo of the two....parts not here till Monday...

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

You can't put them there. The plate on top of the spring gets a washer between it and the bearing in the mount. This is the pivot for your steering. If you put that Insulator donut in there it will bind badly and hamper your steering, and fail. It goes between the spring and plate (the "white ring" in your picture, which is actually the bottom of the metal spring-top plate). This pic is a rear spring but shows where the insulator goes -


Also you can't put anything in the bottom of the strut tube. The stock strut cartridge just fits, and aftermarket options usually have to be ground shorter to fit in. You are trying to jerry-rig things that aren't broken, instead of fixing what really is the problem. As others have said, and you have seen, your struts are worn out and your springs can't handle the extra 250-300lb of iron you have in the engine. You need firmer shocks and strut cartridges. The easiest way is to get a SA/FB coil over set from someone like TechnoToyTuning or Ground Control, but they are very expensive ($900-ish). The Racing beat springs are firmer than stock, but not nearly strong enough for a V8. Also, Granny's Speedshop made slip-on adapters for their first gen drag car that allow circle track springs to go right onto the OE strut tubes, which can be gotten in any spring rate imaginable. Granny's is a PAIN in the *** to deal with (trust me), but they might be able to give advice. Their business is putting V8's into RX7's.

ATC529R

So, I ended up pulling out some slip on coil overs from my attic. I have RB springs, so they are stiffer. I had to cat a small amount off the bottom of the spring to get the coil over in. (I even tried a pipe spreader, but those things are hard metal!)
From there also put the rubbers above the spirings. The rubber is probably 3/16, the bottom of the slip on coil over sits on the factory spring holder on the strut, so that bumped it up another probably 1/2 and the bottom adjuster on the coild over is probably another 3/16. Ended up it raised the car probably an inch to 1 1/4. A little too much. Took it for a 5 minute drive and it dropped about 1/4 inch....will probably settle another bit once the springs settle in the rubbers, so, all in all, it should turn out about right with some driving.

I'm going to experiment with those KYB's this weekend as I have the 2 I took off, and one from my original SA that has already come apart , so I can see the inside. I'm going to drill and tap it and add thicker fluid to see what effect it has on thos blown struts. might get lucky.

For now it's good and does seem to drive better. I also adjusted the steering box. Props to the guy on here with the thread that shows the inside of the box...mine had no fluid in it at all. much tighter over all. a little squeak though, hoping its just the springs on rubbers and will seat, if not maybe the RB poly sway bar bushings. Didn't have time last night to get under there and have someone make it to isolate the squeak.

Happy all in all.

Might go full coil over, but have paint, exhaust and a few other things before I drop chunks on coil overs, especially since I have RB springs and can put fox body struts on the rear.