i was wondering all the free things or less than $10 things that you consider mods, or just things that make it yours. lets get a list going. with my VW we got a list of over 100 things. so lets beat that!! things like cutting the spring in the nikki, to removing carpet and sound deadining, to painting something with nailpolist to give that extra flash!!

 

gutting cats in areas were emission testing is not done. Mechanical secondaries and removal of the air pump and making a homemade ACV block off plate. You should use a high flow air filter with these mods. But you said less then $10, which is unrealistic really. Anything the can remove lb's from your car will help. Just don't be removing heat shielding.. Remove stuff like your broken AC, evaperator, jack, spare tire, if you think you won't get a flat or have a Cell-phone. Remove the rubber/insulation under the hatch which is above the spare.

 

Cut the spring? Heck, just remove it altogether! Never had a problem with doing that (no bogs even if flooring it below 2500!) and you can easily un-do it if you wanted to.

There's my shifter mod I just described, which cost nothing (I got the dowel pin for free from a fellow rotorhead).

Lots people add additional grounds, which may or may not do anything of value on carbed cars.

There's my torque brace mod...

 

i've never heard of dat one?? explane

and hey my a/c works!!... ... ... ... kinda... ...

 

you can get a torque brace from Racing Beat that helps keep the engine from twisting so much on it's mounts, not that that's a big problem unless you're running some high HP.

 

i've seen rb's but he said HIS mod so i was expecting something different

 

or your car is a 79 and the motormounts have seen better days, lol. removing the engine will drop the car weight way down. spring removal from carb. worse gas mileage but extended powerband. spend some on dryer vent hose to route a cold air intake. always invest in zipties.

 

mantis i can twist mine easy i have already streched out the mounting studs. And i can twist the shifter about 6 degrees in gear just by torqueing on it. that top brace really does not help i keeps the car more stable in curves. some where there is a pic of the right kind of brace. i'm building one just like that.

jr

 

port your intake manifold
drill out your secondaries
cut the air filter canister around the sides
slight timing advance
AND ... (insert drumroll here) ... put on a GReddy sticker! (about 25 HP easy)

 

sorry i had to cut off, i had to leave so i ended my post there

my torque brace cost $2 - it's a cable from the front lift eye's bolt to the left side strut tower. for an additional $3.99 you can get a e-brake cable adjuster that will let you set preload a lot easier and also take up the slack after the cable stretches. Makes the 2-3 shift a lot easier because the engine/tranny assembly doesn't rock back when you let off and cause 3rd gear to move in relation to where you think it should be.

PLEASE DON'T GUT A WORKING CAT. They are extremely expensive to get an OE replacement and there are several racing classes that REQUIRE an OE converter. Makes no sense to spend $2500 for a converter for a $1500 car, does it?

There are lots of neat things you can do with GSL-SEs, but I don't have one and probably never will (expensive, rare, plus I'm a 12A freak) so I don't know them too well.

 

ok here are mods that you will feel in your ***-o-meter if you do them all,

clean out cats
remove a/c ,smog pump "with block off plate $6.00"
search direct fire
remove secondary vacume spring
go to archives for sterling's how convert secondarys to mechanicle
ram air mod

these mods you will feel
you need no more "freebies" trust me,
i drove a rx7 "mine" with just these mods done then one without and there was definetly a huge diference all troughout the rpm band

 

You don't need mechanical secondaries if you just remove the diaphragm spring - they will open with throttle position all on their own, no need for zipties or anything else that requires work.

removing A/C? *shudder* Well, maybe if it's broke and you never plan on fixing it... but A/C sure is nice on 90deg+ days, isn't it? The A/C doesn't use any power when it'd not on, it just adds 35lb of weight. If you want to save only 35lb then simply never fill the tank more than halfway.

I'd advise AGAINST removing the smog pump, that's a very expensive mod, since it means you need to either replace your alternator belts frequently, or switch to an electric fan.

 

dont forget about the a/c core though,
you will notice a temp drop when removed,

also i never had to change the alt belt on my 84 once when i removed the smog pump,
and that car lasted a long time,
not to mention to KY and back up to MI

 

he's talking about an engine brace, not a strut tower brace.

peejay- most working cats won't be for much longer. if to be technical wait for those that have sat problems in a smog area and switch cats with them.

 

nice response time for me to get to werk i guess

 

The cheapest way to lose weight in your car is to make your girlfriend go on a diet. Or you go on a diet.

(i stole that one from a guy on the mazspeed.com forums)

 

yea my girl is thin enough like 115 maybe and i'm 230 i guess i could be due to lose a few

 

gotcha beat. i weigh in at a whopping 125 and my gf at 96. oh yeah.

 

Jeremy- are those specs kg or lb?

 

You could always fill your tank half way and take out your A/C...70 pounds!!!!!!

 

If your car is rusted then you can safely remove the spare tire and jack. You wouldn't be able to jack the car up on the side of the road anyway since the rockers would just collapse, so you might as well ditch them That was my logic anyway...

If you have an '81-85 model, switch to a fullsize spare. The compact spare is actually heavier than a factory alloy wheel - the reason they went to compact was so they could make the spare tire well shallower, and the fuel tank a few gallons larger.

It also feels to me that the '79-80 "waffle" wheels are quite a bit lighter than the '81-85 "cross" wheels. Only downside is that waffles have a poor coating from the factory and 9 times out of 10 they are badly corroded. They also require much longer lug bolts.

 

lbs paul.

 

On the subject of weight, has anyone ever noticed the 340lb occupant weight rating on the edge of the driver's door?

Just curious...
BrianHeston

 

340 fu(k dat i'm 235 that means i could only have people who weigh less than 105 shitty i guess no one else gets anymore rides

 

haha... that'd be sweet... meet someone you don't like on the street, asking for a ride

"hey, how much do you weigh?"
"145lbs"
"damn, sorry, can't give you a ride, my car can't handle that much weight"



I wouldn't have much problem though, I only weigh a whopping 135 pounds

Haha, got ya beat Jeremy! Oh, and I don't have a girlfriend, so I don't have to worry about that... all I have to worry about now is picking up the ones on the street, and hoping my car'll run well enough for a long enough time to impress them, and make them think I'm cool Oh, and worry that there's not TOO much smoke going out the tail pipe

Jeff