1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

floppy rear susp. mount.. welding suggestions?

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Old 05-16-06, 10:28 PM
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floppy rear susp. mount.. welding suggestions?

Hey guys,

Noticed the upper suspension mount for the differential on the drivers side is, uh, falling off.. Its kind of just a plate that looks like it is supposed to be spot welded, right where the bins are(but outside the car, obviously). Looks like the last owner thought bondo would be the best route to fix a lot of things..

Anyway, anyone have experience welding these guys back up? I've got an arc welder i'm not bad with, any rod suggestions? If thats a no-go, I could always borrow a MIG. Figured I'd get artsy with some 1/16th or 1/8th plate steel and start hammering and welding.. what do you think?


Jesse

'84 gslse
I'll work on getting a pic, for those of you who can't picture the part i mean.
Old 05-16-06, 10:38 PM
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Check the wheel wells and other bin, there may be more rust than you wish to deal with. If you're still game, mig it. 18ga, to 3/32" plate.
Old 05-16-06, 10:52 PM
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Hehe, memories, I had two floating upper control arms on my old 81, every time i braked I watched them move into the cabin, accelerate and they move out again, she was beyond help though.
Old 05-16-06, 11:24 PM
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The only way to fix that is weld on some 1/16" to 1/8" plate steel using a mig welder. An arc will just burn right through the sheetmetal. The best thing to do is take the bins out from inside the cars and weld a plate in there as well. There is technically two brackets that hold that spot on and they are just connected to the floor in the back under the bins. I just welded a nice big piece of 1/8" plate steel in that area on both sides to strengthen it up.
Old 05-16-06, 11:33 PM
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Yeah, bins are out... bondo everywhere... forgot it was a structural filler

You guys underestimate my arc weldin' skilz.. yo.. Haha, mig would be much easier, probably the right choice.

So a plate on the inside of the car, and one on the outside, then weld the control arm bracket to that? Guess I might as well do that for the other side as well while i'm at it eh?

I love welding, and im really trying hard to save this car.... ahh, memories indeed...
Old 05-25-06, 01:42 AM
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ugh, after attacking my rust holes with an air chisel they are suddenly much larger... d'oh... Two holes big enough to put two hands through each; thats a lot of welding. Anyone do anything to the rusty areas before welding? I've got POR15, but don't think it would hold up to the heat of welding. Looks like i'll be taking some 1/8th steel and perforating it kind of like a kitchen collinder (sp??). That way i can weld it around the edges, as well as through the holes, much like the original spot welds but stronger.

Jesse
Old 05-25-06, 12:46 PM
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Sounds like your car is starting to get to the point that its not feasable to fix. Those mounts have to be mounted back as close to stock as possible otherwise you will screw up the rear end alignment. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of mine so I can't show you what I did.
Old 05-25-06, 11:02 PM
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the brackets for the control arms are still connected... just the sheet metal on the side of the "C" that supports the bracket and faces out is mostly gone. both holes go through to the inside of the bins, making a handy entrance for rodents.. Got some 16 ga steel to play with, we'll see if that does the trick.
Old 05-26-06, 12:02 AM
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Post some pics of the rust.
Old 05-26-06, 11:56 PM
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was bondo and silicone...

note the 275's rub a bit
Old 05-27-06, 02:11 AM
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For the lower hole, I cut an 1/8" plate to fit just inside the rolled lip and cut a hole 3/16-1/4" larger in diameter than the socket for the bolt, then weld it all the way around. Prime with etching or epoxy primer, seal all of the seams, a topcoat of paint, the truckbed liner for protection. The rubberized undercoating in a spray can works too.

For the upper hole, remove the factory 'patch' on the inner wheelwell, cut a sheet of 20-16 ga. plate and do the Jesse James thing on it until it fits. Clean both the wheel well and patch, drill a series of small holes in the patch to mimic spot welds. Coat both the wheel well and patch with zinc chromate primer, install as above.

While you're working in that area, dig out all of the old seam sealer and look for rust, it's there, hiding. Prep, treat, prime, caulk and topcoat. Search for a thread started under my user name tittled 'Unveiling..." I have wheel well pics in there.
Old 09-08-22, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by sbcrx007
hey guys,

noticed the upper suspension mount for the differential on the drivers side is, uh, falling off.. Its kind of just a plate that looks like it is supposed to be spot welded, right where the bins are(but outside the car, obviously). Looks like the last owner thought bondo would be the best route to fix a lot of things..

Anyway, anyone have experience welding these guys back up? I've got an arc welder i'm not bad with, any rod suggestions? If thats a no-go, i could always borrow a mig. Figured i'd get artsy with some 1/16th or 1/8th plate steel and start hammering and welding.. What do you think?


Jesse. I need help with the same problem

'84 gslse
i'll work on getting a pic, for those of you who can't picture the part i mean.
i

Last edited by kipone; 09-08-22 at 11:43 PM. Reason: I need somebody to call me I need help I fill like at any time I going to brake it more can’t some body help
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