Hey guys first post! about 2 years ago i discovered the wankel. since then I have built two 13b sand rails! well last night a 82 gsl came up for sale that i couldn't pass up! She drove the 2 hours home nicely however she needs a few things. I put a new battery in her this morning and went to start her up. she starts up and would run for a few seconds then die. eventually by feathering the throttle for a few she stayed running. i took her for a little drive and came back to see what she needed under the hood. I noticed all the hoses off the rats-nest are missing, belt for the ac and im pritty sure the choke inset even hooked up! My first question is about the choke. i am not familiar with the niki carb so all i know is that the choke dosent work and seems to have the linkages wrong. am i correct? second is does anyone have the diagram for the rats-nest? or should I just pull it off completely? I have no idea how to add pictures so if anyone has pictures of the linkage or ratsnest that are correct i would be ever grateful!

Thanks guys!

 

That looks like a good one, I'm jealous!

About the choke and rats nest, those are the best parts of a 1st gen.

Time to get down to business Grass Hopper!

 

Here are some images from 2003 when my shudder valve (coasting valve in the diagram) failed and I documented where everything was in place before digging in to replace the valve.

From a 84 GSL stock with functioning rats nest and associated components.

If you follow the link in the second post from the top in this forum, there is a wealth of information, including one on carburetors, just in case you have not done so already.

(The rats nets image was colored by someone else.)

When you say the choke is not working, does the dash **** stay out when the engine is cold and the key in the ON position? If not, then the coolant temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing may not be connected, or the electromagnetic choke switch may be faulty, or something I'm not aware of.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the responses! The choke pull **** thing does stay out but inside the choke plates don't budge one bit. they are free to move and i can open and close them easily by hand.

As for the rats nest do I actually even need it? both my 13bs have no vacuum anything ( both are also running Holley carbs)

Thanks!

 

Tim I was re reading your post and forgot to mention something. the water temp gauge does not work. the sensor in the thermostat housing is in there but im not sure if it is broken or what. I noticed something that i think fixed the choke. some how it slid off the spring that actually puts tension on it (choke spring or something like that) fixed that and it seems to work now(its warm so i will check later)

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Great.

The sensor in the back of the water pump housing does not connect to the dash temp gauge. The sensor for the temp gauge, on my 12a, is located on the rear iron, left side.

A little more followup here: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...gauge-1074146/

 

Would ither one effect the choke atall? Also do I need the rats nest?

 

The one on the back of the water pump housing causes the electromagnet on the choke switch to release.

Based upon the pics you posted I'm not sure you still have the components the rats nest controls. My guess is the components have been disconnected/removed. If so, then the rats nest could come off. If not, then you could reconnect it. Opinions differ as to remove or leave on.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-non-...t-lose-991864/

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...eason-1060338/

Someone posted a link to this guide for removing the rats nests and associated components. (No time to search for the post.) You may find it useful to compare what is removed to what you have left.

http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf

 

So the sensor in the back of the water pump could be my choke problem?


Is there any negatives to taking the rats nest off?

 

If you disconnect the wire connector for the sensor on the back of the water pump housing, the choke **** will not stay out when the engine is cold & the key ON. If you reconnect the connector and the **** stays out, then the sensor is functioning correctly.

When the coolant temp hits the mark the electromagnet in the choke switch releases and the ****.

The two links to threads in my previous post have discussions on the pros and cons of removing the rats nest.

I do not have enough knowledge to have a definitive opinion.

 

Looks like it'll be a good learning experience for a first FB!