finding "TDC".... (racing beat flywheel/counterweight)
#1
faster than smurfs...
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finding "TDC".... (racing beat flywheel/counterweight)
i would like to start by saying i have searched the forum for about a day looking for this info with no avail...
that being said,
i have a fresh engine, it came with no pulley(the one that should have the timing marks)
i have a racing beat flywheel/counterweight.
i should be able to find TDC using the flywheel sight on the top of the engine, right?
right now, what i believe to be TDC, looking down the top flywheel sight, i see the counterweight is all the way on the drivers, side. the little(1/2") divet, that is on the counterweight is facing up.
any other good schemes for finding TDC?
i will take a pic looking down the sight when there is a break in the rain :-(
that being said,
i have a fresh engine, it came with no pulley(the one that should have the timing marks)
i have a racing beat flywheel/counterweight.
i should be able to find TDC using the flywheel sight on the top of the engine, right?
right now, what i believe to be TDC, looking down the top flywheel sight, i see the counterweight is all the way on the drivers, side. the little(1/2") divet, that is on the counterweight is facing up.
any other good schemes for finding TDC?
i will take a pic looking down the sight when there is a break in the rain :-(
#2
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
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Hold on a second...I have been talking to RB on the phone for a bit, and stumbled on this thread
I take it you have a 12a?
EDIT: The guy I talked to said you have to buy a RB pulley, as there is no mechanical way you can find TDC.
I feel like throwing the BS flag.
I take it you have a 12a?
EDIT: The guy I talked to said you have to buy a RB pulley, as there is no mechanical way you can find TDC.
I feel like throwing the BS flag.
#3
faster than smurfs...
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mine is a 13b... repu "block"
dizzy and front cover are gsl-SE.(so it fits)
i just talked to someone at racing beat also,
he seemed to think that under the pulley, there is a key for the pulley installation.
i am not seeing any kind of keying.
there are four positions the pulley can be installed(can be clocked in 3 hour increments
dizzy and front cover are gsl-SE.(so it fits)
i just talked to someone at racing beat also,
he seemed to think that under the pulley, there is a key for the pulley installation.
i am not seeing any kind of keying.
there are four positions the pulley can be installed(can be clocked in 3 hour increments
#5
Waffles - hmmm good
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Must not have search too hard, this thread in the archives should get you thru it.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=finding+TDC
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=finding+TDC
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#10
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after reading the link above(great thread, wish i found that first...)
i think i had TDC the whole time...
the thing that is throwing me off is when in this configuration, it is almost impossible to crank over. if i start moving teeth on the dizzy gear it gets easier. it will fire after moving several teeth
thoughts?
i think i had TDC the whole time...
the thing that is throwing me off is when in this configuration, it is almost impossible to crank over. if i start moving teeth on the dizzy gear it gets easier. it will fire after moving several teeth
thoughts?
#11
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so... just to make sure i got this right...
please see attached pic..
i am using the RB flywheel/counterweight.
looking down the top sight(at the flywheel)
the part of the counterweight marked in red should just become visible?
it come into visibility from the passenger side.
thanks for the help, trying nt to damage my new motor...
i am using the RB flywheel/counterweight.
looking down the top sight(at the flywheel)
the part of the counterweight marked in red should just become visible?
it come into visibility from the passenger side.
thanks for the help, trying nt to damage my new motor...
#15
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BTW... just ran to sears...
got a new battery and batt cables...
i really wish it would stop raining...
i am working in short spurts do to weather
before, trying to start it the voltage was dropping down to about 5v with a starter box on it.
got a new battery and batt cables...
i really wish it would stop raining...
i am working in short spurts do to weather
before, trying to start it the voltage was dropping down to about 5v with a starter box on it.
#16
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so... with new battery and cables.. it turns nice and hard now.
but still doesn't catch.
i have tried moving the distributor around by a tooth at a time, moving the rotor clockwise.
no change.
it at least fired over yesterday...
but still doesn't catch.
i have tried moving the distributor around by a tooth at a time, moving the rotor clockwise.
no change.
it at least fired over yesterday...
#17
Out In the Barn
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mine is a 13b... repu "block"
dizzy and front cover are gsl-SE.(so it fits)
i just talked to someone at racing beat also,
he seemed to think that under the pulley, there is a key for the pulley installation.
i am not seeing any kind of keying.
there are four positions the pulley can be installed(can be clocked in 3 hour increments
dizzy and front cover are gsl-SE.(so it fits)
i just talked to someone at racing beat also,
he seemed to think that under the pulley, there is a key for the pulley installation.
i am not seeing any kind of keying.
there are four positions the pulley can be installed(can be clocked in 3 hour increments
#19
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mine does not have this...
looking at the pulley through the site, i think i have TDC...
now i think i am fighting something else.
i replaced battery, and cables. turns very nicely now.
will recheck for spark again in the morning
maybe i knocked something loose when i rewired...
looking at the pulley through the site, i think i have TDC...
now i think i am fighting something else.
i replaced battery, and cables. turns very nicely now.
will recheck for spark again in the morning
maybe i knocked something loose when i rewired...
#21
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ok...
so, in going over my wiring i have found a small wire with no home.
it has a smallring fitting. it seems to be attached to the part of the loom that comes from the fire wall. looks like it should be a ground(maybe ECU ground???)
the ring fitting (like small battery terminal) would fit on the starter solenoid, but i do not see this in any wire diagrams. it is hanging in the vicinity of the starter.
what could this be?
so, in going over my wiring i have found a small wire with no home.
it has a smallring fitting. it seems to be attached to the part of the loom that comes from the fire wall. looks like it should be a ground(maybe ECU ground???)
the ring fitting (like small battery terminal) would fit on the starter solenoid, but i do not see this in any wire diagrams. it is hanging in the vicinity of the starter.
what could this be?
#23
Old [Sch|F]ool
This is good enough if you're just trying to find out how to orient an OE crank pulley on an OE hub. (And starting with the FC, the pulley only goes on one way anyway)
Another way you can try to find where the general vicinity of TDC is involves removing the dust shield on the right (manifolding) side of the engine, and line up the cutout/depression so that it is pointing 90 degrees from vertical. When rotor #1 is at TDC, the light spot on the flywheel/rear counterweight points towards the ports and the heavy spot points to the spark plugs.
But the only way to find exact TDC is with various improvised jigs on a partially assembled engine.
#24
talking head
if you have a standard flywheel on,,
( view from rear )
then the bite missing from the back ring will be pointing at the exhaust at 3 oclock
if you have an auto counterweight ,,
then the bumps will at 9 o'clock ( view from rear ) down the spark side
( look down inspection cover )
=================
take off the clutch inspection cover and take note of the position of the counter weight wings or conversely the missing bite from the OEM flywheel balance
line the engine up to the right position and install the pulley so the timing mark matches
you will find 1974-82 the pulleys have an alum rivet extra to the bolt holes to help align
83-85 will have a pulley that can fit on 4 different ways
and the 1986-91 have an asymmetric bolt hole that allows them to align only one way
all these pulleys bolt to a hub and hub to crankshaft with big bolt and key-way that allow only one position for the hub
align the TDC or 5 ATDC ( pulley depending ) mark with the timing pin and then align the dizzy dot and mark on shaft and drop it in holding the button
- secret trick is actually to stop the pulley 5 degrees short ( clockwise ) [ 5 BTDC]
it allows the dizzy to stab easier without being on the crux of jumping forward or back as you stab
rotate the engine to the proper mark and align the pickup with the reluctor vane
=============
when you are happy with that and the polarity of the pickups to coil wiring
you can try starting
some rebuilds with s/h parts and superglue may need an initial tug/tow/bumpstart start ( if manual )
set idle high and allow engine to half warm before stopping it and allowing cooling system to depressurise to burp and refill it
most budget rebuilds will by now key start,, but some may require one or two more tugs till engine beds in
( view from rear )
then the bite missing from the back ring will be pointing at the exhaust at 3 oclock
if you have an auto counterweight ,,
then the bumps will at 9 o'clock ( view from rear ) down the spark side
( look down inspection cover )
=================
take off the clutch inspection cover and take note of the position of the counter weight wings or conversely the missing bite from the OEM flywheel balance
line the engine up to the right position and install the pulley so the timing mark matches
you will find 1974-82 the pulleys have an alum rivet extra to the bolt holes to help align
83-85 will have a pulley that can fit on 4 different ways
and the 1986-91 have an asymmetric bolt hole that allows them to align only one way
all these pulleys bolt to a hub and hub to crankshaft with big bolt and key-way that allow only one position for the hub
align the TDC or 5 ATDC ( pulley depending ) mark with the timing pin and then align the dizzy dot and mark on shaft and drop it in holding the button
- secret trick is actually to stop the pulley 5 degrees short ( clockwise ) [ 5 BTDC]
it allows the dizzy to stab easier without being on the crux of jumping forward or back as you stab
rotate the engine to the proper mark and align the pickup with the reluctor vane
=============
when you are happy with that and the polarity of the pickups to coil wiring
you can try starting
some rebuilds with s/h parts and superglue may need an initial tug/tow/bumpstart start ( if manual )
set idle high and allow engine to half warm before stopping it and allowing cooling system to depressurise to burp and refill it
most budget rebuilds will by now key start,, but some may require one or two more tugs till engine beds in