borinquen7

iTrader: (1)

So I finally opened up my 12a, after forever.....I have posted some pics so I can get all your opinions, atleast what you can tell from the pictures.... In 1 of the pics you can see like some sort of caoting has come off showed I be conserned with this....
Thanks for all your help
Peace out
Jose

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

First pic of the housing, it's toast, find another one. Second pic is too fuzzy.

steve84GS TII

Cha,Cha,Cha,Cha,Chatter-ific!

Ditto,housing is now a bookend.

mr_ouija

From what I can see of the second pic, the rotor looks okay... If the bearings show any copper coloring, they're toast. Good news is a new set of bearings is just over $60.

I recently opened up a TurboII motor I'm going to be putting in my FB and I found 4 toasted bearings and one badly worn E-Shaft. The bearings I'll be ordering from mazda, and the E-Shaft is already replaced with a like new one by the builder. The good news is the plates and rotor housings look brand new on the motor, so I lucked out there.

Anyhow, post some better pics of the parts and I'm sure others here can give you a very good idea how much you're going to have to replace.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Sorry, but you're wrong. Bearings can still be in spec if there is copper showing. You need to measure them to know if they're toast...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I agree with Hyper. If there are any ridges on the e-shaft, no need to measure the bearings though, they will be toast.

mr_ouija

I should have been more specific, as just any copper is definately wrong, especially concerning the seam. IIRC visible copper aside from at the seam was a standard given in the Bruce Turrentine video, but I haven't watched it in awhile to be 100% positive.

Beings they're as cheap as they are (not counting FD bearings) I'd replace them if you have a means to press them out/in yourself. As far as mine go, I'll be replacing bearings for peace of mind, especially after seeing some decent LOOKING bearings and a very worn E-Shaft. There are ridges plenty large enough to see and feel. Measuring will always tell the tale if done properly, but some items easier to eyeball that they're bad.

mr_ouija

I just went back and re-watched those particular parts in the video.

He doesn't say about copper showing, but states that you're looking for excessive wear, and what LOOKS like excessive wear, can be the seam from the two ends of the bearing being bonded and ground down to prevent high spots. Doesn't just come out and say that, but his description leads me to believe the missing Babbitt (sp?) is a sign of excessive wear.

And for ~$60, I'd like the added piece of mind of new bearings.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The way the bearings are made, there is always a brass strip where the joint is. I threw my early teardown rotors out, not realizing this. The babbet must be smooth and the gap difference between the bearing and shaft must be in tolerance. New bearings take longer to break in on a fresh motor. They add 500-1000 miles on breakin.

mr_ouija

Right, the seam from the 'puzzle joint' in the bearing is normal to have brass/copper coloring. What I was referring to is the rest of the bearing.

New parts take more break in-time, true, but reusing old bearings solely for reduced break-in time isn't smart IMO. If they are good, by all means, reuse them, but if the babbitt is worn through aside from the seam, I'd call that excessive wear, and time to pony up for some new bearings.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

if you are going to do it right and you have any doubt whatsoever, replace the bearings. it doesnt't take a large press. you can take the rotors to a qualified shop and have them pressed out and the new ones pressed in if you don't have a press. as stated above, any excessive scoring, ridging, bluing or any slop means rotor bearing replacement. any of those will cause you a headache later. but please, don't put the engine back together without measuring the tolerances and making sure your parts are within spec.

borinquen7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info guys not what I wanted to hear ,, I have put a few more pics, I tried to get them as clear as I can but I can't fiqure this freaking camera out, so see if you guys can see anything bad and what I should replace.. Thanks alot
PEACE
JOSE L CRUZ

mr_ouija

From what I can see, the bearings pass visually, but measuring will tell the tale even better. That first rotor pic shows the joint in the bearing very well. That's normal.

I can't tell on the housing pics for sure, they look like they have a good bit of carbon or flaking. Carbon isn't a problem, you can clean it off, flaking on the edges is tolerable to a limit, you'd have to measure it to be sure. I'd clean everything up real good, then start measuring and post some more pics, it'll be a lot easier to tell what's good and what's garbage.

On a side note, you can reuse about anything, but the higher quality the parts that go into your motor are, the better off you will be. Crappy parts make for shorter lived motors. You'll get better compression and longer life out of better parts, so long as all other aspects are covered including proper maintenance, cooling, etc.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Have you been over reving a bit too often? Pic one may pass, pic 3 is for display purposes only, pic 4 looks ok, pic 5 has too much flash from the camera.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It might be the angle, but the pic showing the apex tip makes it look somewhat V shaped. How tall are your apex seals and how sloppily do they fit in the slots?

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

its threads like this that you get more of the veterns out!

but like trochoid said about the over reving i was thinking the same thing

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

That or the rotor bearing on that housing is long gone. Which could be from over reving.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

to me the housings are GONE! and the bearings as well... better safe than sorry and get new hosings and rotors and bearings....it is a lot but in the long run you will love it!