i'm looking for a aftermarket fiberglass hood for my 7. As well as any other fiberglass bodywork. Any ideas?

 

http://www.piner.com/japco

His hoods are perfect. I have one. 12lbs. You will need hoodpins. It is not a bolt on. When I bought mine, it was $130 for the hood and $40 to airmail it in from NC to ATL.

 

does the hood look like it is stock? and how hard was it to get it to fit? you know while im replacing body parts already i think a new hood would be pretty cool.

 

From the outside it looks exactly like stock. You will need a hood pin kit to mount the hood though. Fitment was like stock.

 

Man, those prices aren't bad at all... The Mariah hood is 731$ Geez... now, I need to replace one of my fenders anyway....

 

Regarding the Mariah Hood. Yes, it is pricey, but fitment was almost perfect. Iti is a bolt on system, as long as you make the necessary modifications if you have a stock carb on it...i.e., low profile filter charger for proper fitment of the NACA Hood air intake. IT looks awsome, I will be placing pics in my website soon... you can see them at http://www.rotaryrx7.com

It was worth the price. It is very sturdy and it might weight around the same as the metal may be a little less...but it is a beast.....

82GSL

 

JOSE!

Got a couple of questions for you.. Is that the Mariah Air duct on the RT headlight? How did that fit on there? Real nice? I am seriously comtemplating getting that as soon as I rearrange my intake a bit ('SE, no carb) My stock box is about in the right place for that scoop. SO.. Does much air fow in thru that scoop, from what you can tell? Also, what all goes into getting it to fit on? Thanks in advance...

 

JOSE!

Got a couple of questions for you.. Is that the Mariah Air duct on the RT headlight? How did that fit on there? Real nice? I am seriously comtemplating getting that as soon as I rearrange my intake a bit ('SE, no carb) My stock box is about in the right place for that scoop. SO.. Does much air fow in thru that scoop, from what you can tell? Also, what all goes into getting it to fit on? Thanks in advance...

BTW - damn your car looks good....

 

Thanks. I also looked at yuor website. You have got to tell me where I can find those dual headlight assemblies. My plans are for the engine mods first then bodywork but I think I'll be buying the hood now since the price is right.

 

Yes, is the Mariah Air Duct. When you order the headlight lit cover with the NACA air duct functional, you will be charged also for a core charge, then when you return yours back to them, they send you a refund. The fit was perfect, be advise that the four screws that hold that lid together will almos always thing that they were born there. That was the must difficult taks, even after spraying them with all sorts of lubricants, they were really a pain in the you know what...... advisable to have spare screws. What I did was went to a wrecking yard and got a headlight lid and used it as the core. Also, on the inside of the engine bay right behind the headlight lid below the rubber seal (which by the way you will get a new one with the headlight lead) is a metal piece that prevents most of the air from coming in. What I did was I cut that piece of metal off with a dremel and polished real good and spot painted and you can not tell that it was ever there. There is a good amount of air that comes in from that location, however, when your headlights are up the flow is restricted a bit as the air duct is now behind the headlight, nothing to worry about unless you are planing on only using this entrance for your cold air intake...

Overall, I was pleased with the quaity of their products, so I bought the hood too....They do not do painting, so you will have to painted yourself or send it to a paint shop....

hope this helps....

 

Yes, is the Mariah Air Duct. When you order the headlight lit cover with the NACA air duct functional, you will be charged also for a core charge, then when you return yours back to them, they send you a refund. The fit was perfect, be advise that the four screws that hold that lid together will almos always thing that they were born there. That was the must difficult taks, even after spraying them with all sorts of lubricants, they were really a pain in the you know what...... advisable to have spare screws. What I did was went to a wrecking yard and got a headlight lid and used it as the core. Also, on the inside of the engine bay right behind the headlight lid below the rubber seal (which by the way you will get a new one with the headlight lead) is a metal piece that prevents most of the air from coming in. What I did was I cut that piece of metal off with a dremel and polished real good and spot painted and you can not tell that it was ever there. There is a good amount of air that comes in from that location, however, when your headlights are up the flow is restricted a bit as the air duct is now behind the headlight, nothing to worry about unless you are planing on only using this entrance for your cold air intake...

Overall, I was pleased with the quaity of their products, so I bought the hood too....They do not do painting, so you will have to painted yourself or send it to a paint shop....

hope this helps....

 

Any idea how hard it is to fit the aftermarket bodywork from the first company. Specifically the fenders. I'm thinking of ordering all of it because of the huge weight savings. How much did you save over the stock hood when you switched?

 

wow, and I need new hood to go with the rest of the body work this spring....
hmmm.
any pics of the hood installed?

--matt

 

does anyone make replacement fiberglass fenders that look stock also, just wondering

 

Jap-Co full body kit. I've found out about theHas anyone tried the hood that seems simple enough. How hard is it to install the fenders and front air dam. How hard is it to remove the old body work. Any idea how much of a weight savings the total kit can yield?

 

Lets try that again. Has anyone tried the full body kit from Jap-Co. I've found out about the hood. The hood seems simple enough. How hard is it to install the fenders and front air dam. How hard is it to remove the old body work. Any idea how much of a weight savings the total kit can yield?

 

IIRC, Jap-Co products are full race fiberglass units and as such are laid up pretty light and you should use caution if you intend to use this type of body-work on a street car. Race glass is not intended for street use and can cause problems after prolonged use.

Bern

 

does anyone make replacement fenders that look stock? also what are the stock (steel) weights, as in how much weight will be shave by replacing the hood front and rear fenders.
Denni§

 

What sort of problems can I envision with the aftermarket fiberglass from Japco? Also does this extend to their entire line or just the fender. For example could I get away with the front air dam and hood or should I just go with a aftermarket air dam from MazdaTrix?

 

As I remember the stock hood is extremely light. I wonder how much a stock hood would weigh if all of the bracing were removed except for the edge rails, so that you could use the stock hinges/latch.

It doesn't seem to do anything anyway... it pushes in VERY easily

 

Well, as most of you know I fucked up my car in May, and this spring I plan on getting all the body work done at once. I've collected most of the parts I need to replace, I just need a front passanger fender, and a hood (I'll let the body shop take care of the rear driver's quarter pannel). What would be the reasoning NOT to go w/ a fiberglass hood? (Anyone w/ a Solo II rule book please look up and see if that would push me out of Street Prepared) The car's more or less a daily driver, tho hopefully I'll get something next year to replace it as a daily driver so I can just drive it on the weekends / at races.

Anyone?

Thanks!
--matt