should I add the oil leak stop stuff when doing the oil change?
should I add the coolant stop stuff?
or should I leave well enough alone?
once I added the el cheapo prestone coolant leak stop. 1/2 hour of driving later, my car over heated from a clogged radiator. should of left well enough alone

about +5 years ago, I added bars 2 part coolant leak stop because there was huge billows of white smoke when I started the car. And I added alumina seal to the oil. Fixed the problem. Right now there aren't huge billows of steam.

 

I wouldn't add any thing to the oil. The oil passages in the e-shaft are so small I'd be scared it would fill them up. Same with the coolant. I know some folks like it, but not for me.

 

so then, just leave well enough alone? some say it is the beehive oil cooler that is messing up, and rotay engine gasket failures are un heard of.

12a rebuilt prices are skyrocketting!

 

How much oil are you seeing in the coolant? Theres really no way for oil to mix with the coolant short of a very corroded lower housing section, which is unheard of or a faulty beehive oil cooler. If you are concerned about the amount of oil you are seeing I would replace the oil cooler and drain the cooling system and the engine block, flush it with a cooling system flush additive, flush with water, and then refill with the proper mix of FL22 and bleed the system.

 

I saw a few droplets of 1/8 inch diameter. And don't understand, are you saying that it is unheard of for the beehive to leak oil nto the coolant?

 

anything is possible ..oring fail .. housing corroded.... i personally would not use any of those productss

 

Thanks all,
OK, I won't use those liquid leak fixers until there are buckets of steam on start up. Little kids shouted with joy when they saw all that steam trail the car. It's a 16 year old low mileage Atkins rebuild.

 

II wouldn't worry about a few drops of oil in the coolant unless it correlates it with another problem, like poor performance or excessive oil consumption.

Oil and water don't mix, so even a very small amount of oil in the coolant system will concentrate and collect on a relatively cool surface, like the radiator cap.

Were the oil droplets on the radiator cap?

Now just some thoughts on the stop leak products. Coolant and oil leak stop leaks are very different.

The coolant stop leak is water based and consists of suspended particles that are intended to clog in and sea the leak.

I agree, this is risky business and I wouldn't try it unless the situation was desperate (not happened yet).

However oil stop leaks don't work this way, they are solvent-based with no insoluble particles.

Instead they condition the rubber O ring seals that seal the oil passages, causing them to swell a bit and stop leaking.

I've used Gold Eagle No Leak on old 12A's with the dowel O ring leak (oil on top of engine near "12A" label on housing) with very good results, turning serious dripping leaks into manageable leaks requiring only occasional topping of the oil.

And recently I used it on a fresh rebuild that was consuming more oil than I'd like, showing up as a bit of smoke on start up.

The No Leak fixed that too, after a couple hours oil consumption is normal and the cold start smoking vanished.

At $5-7 a bottle worth a try and a lot less expensive than a rebuild.

And it won't clog oil passages.

 

No, I'm saying it's near unheard of for the lower section of the rotor housing that extends into the oil pan to corrode and have any oil and coolant mix. The beehive is the likely suspect here.

 

oil will make milkshake, those things you're seeing are something else (its bits of the water pump seal, radiator hoses, etc).