There are a couple of nagging problems that I'm not really sure where to begin with on my SE.

First and most pressing: After I get out of my car after driving for a while, I can smell gasoline. I can't find any drips, and its most noticeable at the front of the car, could it be a leaky injector?

Second: After driving for a good while (usually after highway trips) when I come to a stop and idle for a while, my temperature gauge starts creeping up. It doesn't sound like the fan is really coming on like it does when I first start the car, which leads me to...

Third: When I first start the car, it wants to die unless i tap the gas pedal even a little bit, then it shoots up to 3-3500rpm, and the fan comes on, and just stays exactly there for a while, then slowly settles down, until the car is warm then idles normally. Is this normal or is something wrong? TPS perhaps?

Fourth: After the car has run for a good while (again highway trips of 50 miles or so) the steering starts making loud squeaking sounds at low speeds, its not related to the power steering I don't think, because it will do it if the engine is on or OFF.

Lastly: The car just seems to fall on its face at around 6,000rpm. I've given it a new filter and new plugs, and I seamfoamed it, and it *seems* to have really good compression. Do SE's just run out of steam at 6k? I would have thought it would rev strong to 7k or so. I wonder if perhaps my aux ports aren't working correctly? To illustrate, the car just doesn't feel as fast as my STOCK LS integra, which it should be faster than going on the numbers.

Feel free to answer questions selectively rather than all of them. I didn't want to make a bunch of different threads.

Thanks for any input!

 

Fuel smell is probably a leaking pulsation damper. Rather dangerous. You want to fix it as soon as possible.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-pulsation.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/fuel-leak-problem-pics-included-724280/

Your fan clutch may be going bad.

Start up behavior sounds normal.

Power steering can make a squealing noise if the fluid is low, but not if the engine is off.

Aux port actuators kick in around 4500 rpm. You should be able to move them by hand (engine off) if they are not stuck. Make sure the hose and pipe are connected to the exhaust and not leaking.

I assume you have already checked the timing, plugs, distributor cap and rotor. These can make a big difference in power.

 

Thanks for the info. Going to test the actuators and look at the cap, rotor, and timing. Plugs and wires are new. Also going to examine that fuel leak.

 

I tried to move the actuator rod/assembly by hand and it would not rotate at all (I'm assuming its the diaphram/pushrod/lever thing on the left side of the intake manifold down by the header?) Is there any way to "unstick" it?

 

You are going to have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds to remove the sleeves and clean them.

 

Thank you for that picture!!!!

 

That IS a great picture.. Who do I give credit to?

Looks like a good way way to make a thread for the newbies (an oldies) to explain the "what is this thing".

 

Do I recognize that floor? LOL

+1 for ANOTHER great picture from 74RX4 !

 

Ok I have another problem. There is a spring loaded rotational thing with a loose spring around it one end by the TPS. Here are pics of said device. Wondering what it is, what it does, and where the hell the spring should attach to.








Any ideas? I couldn't figure out where the spring could go, and I can't find anywhere what the device is. Its near the oil rod...so its got me a bit worried lol

 

That spring is not a stock part. That's probably why you can't find where it goes. Not sure why someone would put it there.

Nobodymv....Yes you have seen that floor and the engine. The TPS from that engine is the one we put on your car.

Directfreak....Hey Alex. Ron from Naples (MRCCFL).

More pictures in the archives......
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-gslse-engine-pictures-706258/

or go direct to my website.
http://intertron.com/ron/

 

As far as number 3 goes my SE has always done the same thing. I usually put it in first and let the clutch out just a bit and the revs will drop to about 1500 until warmed up then normal 7-800rpm idle. I don't want it spinning 3500 when cold with no oil pumping.

 

Yeah I know...wonder why it happens. Sometimes just moving the gearstick over to the right will drop the revs for me.

Question! Is there a thread on how to free the aux port actuators? Is this something I can do in a few hours, or all day, or all weekend?

Also, I ordered two brake rotors (front) from autozone. They came in and I took them to just brakes, but they said they needed the bearings as well. Is there anywhere you can buy the rotors with the bearings already in them? I have no way of putting them in.

 

You need 2 of each. Outer bearing, inner bearing and the grease/oil seal. They can install them easily. So can you for that matter

This is from the rockauto.com online catalog, but any parts store should be able to get them.

BCA/NATIONAL Part # A32
Taper Bearing Assembly; Front Wheel; Inner 16.33

BCA/NATIONAL Part # 32204
Taper Bearing Assembly; Front Wheel; Outer 17.31

BCA/NATIONAL Part # 1213N
Oil seal, Front Wheel; Inner 4.83

Intake manifold removal is a 1/2 hour job if you've done it before. Removing and cleaning the sleeves takes another 30 minutes or so. Reinstalling the manifolds and connecting all the vacuum lines, electrical connections, cables and bolts can take a while if you haven't done it before. The first time it took me three days. 1 to remove and clean. 1 to reinstall and another to find that last damn hose nipple under the BAC. I'd take your time and plan on spending a couple days.

 

Can the upper/lower be taken off as one piece or no?

 

Re the moving-gearshift-to-right-affects-idle... I wonder if it's something to do with the 4th & 5th-gear switches that go to the emissions?

Don't know your year, but the SA trans has two switches that detect 4th gear and 5th gear, which actuate vacuum solenoids that control things like power valve operation.

Perhaps a similar system?

 

Yes. Upper, lower, DIE chamber and throttle body all come off together. Remove the engine to LIM (lower intake manifold) bolts. Remove the two bolts on the drivers side of the DIE chamber. Disconnect all the cables, hoses and wires and it comes right off Sounds simple. Its not, take pictures. Be sure to buy a new LIM/engine gasket before you take it apart. They frequently leak after being disturbed.

 

Sounds good, do auto-parts stores typically carry those manifold gaskets?

 

I would think they could get them, but I'd go with Mazdatrix to be sure you get a reliable one. The engine was only produced for two years, so its likely that most parts stores will not have them in stock.