For everyone out there running an FC coil directfire set up. How do you guys set your timing? I tried setting timing as normal with the timing light lead on the front rotor leading plug and I cant see my timing mark(L). When I move the lead to the Trailing plug(front rotor) I'm able to see it(T). I also noticed that the signal on the Leading is choppy not constant like the stock ignition set up. Do I have to switch back to the stock ignition first and set the timing. Any ideas? By the way this is on a S4 with a 12A front cover.


Thanks, Ed

 

Thats what I said about the FC coils. I prefer the DLIDFS or MSD direct fire with stock/blaster coil set up.

As far as the timing, I always set them at full advance.

 

I set the timing with the stock setup prior to installing the 2nd gen coil.

check all of your connections, cause I've never had an issue with choppyness. also, make sure you've got the same guage positive wire going to the coil. it sucks a lot of juice!!! (don't use a smaller wire to connect from the stock wiring.)


feel free to PM me... I've been asked just about every question on this setup, so...

 

Mel, I normally run 26L 16T at 6000rpm with my marked 13B SE pulley.

Mettalic rock, I have a heavy gauge wire for the + and about the same gauge as stock for the -. What I mean by choppiness is on the trainling lead the timing light flash is constant as oppose to the Leading.
I know my pulley is on right because I have doulble checked it by pulling it off and making sure that the key is at 9 o'clock. Once the pulley is installed the Leading mark on the pulley aligns with the pointer. Now when I start it is a different story. Any ideas?

Thanks, Ed

 

I'll switch back to the stock set up and see if I can set the timing! Anyone know how to check an MSD 6A? I have one but not sure if it works. The last time I tried hooking it up to my 2nd gen directfire I ended up frying my FC coil.



Thanks, Ed

 

Strange, I've never had any problems timing mine. I time it just like it was stock. Now I'm wondering if I screwed something up....

 

your timing should not change at all as direct fire is only to have more spark. If my old memory is right, you have to ground the white wire to see if the MSD 6A/L is workign or not. search their website.

 

13b toy, I had that same problem when i install my 2glidfis. I set my timing to 26L and 16T and i noticed that my Leading mark was moving back an forth. This drove me crazy for days ! Then i notice that my idle was at 900 rpm alot lower than where it was suppose to be set. My dizzy is lock and i usally set my idle to 1200 rpm's. Once i corrected idle adjustment the leading marks were steady ! I hope this may help you out a little.

 

there are other factors with fluctuating timing marks such as condition of ur spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotors, wires, etc etc.

In my initial post, I was referring to the output of the timing light; not the fluctuating timing marks. Using blaster/or stock coil, the light is constant while with the FC, its intermitent (you can actually see it pauses).

 

One reason the leading might look choppy is because it's now firing every 180* not just on the timing mark.

 

^bingo, every other spark will be on the mark.

 

so you can still set the timing with this setup then? i havent set the timing yet.. i am trying to get my car to idle first.. but i have a 79 so i switched out the dizzy and hooked up this setup already.. so i cant switch back .. so should i just time it normally?

 

Setting the timing will not change with direct fire.

 

Youre right Mel! With the stock set up the light is constant almost like a flash light. With the Fc directfire its more like flash, pause, flash flash, pause. My car is running extremely rich at idle right now but I suspect a vacuum leak so timing the car has to wait until I get that straighened out.


Thanks, Ed

 

I always used the ear to set mine. Once you know the sound it isn't that difficult.

 

With piston motors, yes, I do the same. TUrn the dizzy and grab the throttle cable at the same time to listen for ping. Tried that too on a rotary but nope, no worky for me.

 

spray carb cleaner around the intake area if you suspect a vacuum leak. Try using smaller idle jets but again, with rotaries, "If it doesnt hurt your eyes, it aint rich enough."

 

Call it persitance or whatever you like, but I am not the only one who does it by ear. Yes, piston motors are easier, but the rotary has a distinct sound when it is set right. Just takes a bit longer to set it is all. Just do it at idle no need to grab the throttle cable for anything.

 

Okay, I lied! I couldnt leave it alone so my timing is now set to 26L and 16T. I switched back to the stock ignition. Once the timing was set I went back to the FC directfire. Now I need to figure out why I'm running rich at idle. I'm running stock RB jets with a 75 idle jet like always but I'm getting black smoke out of the exhaust at idle with 3 turns in of the idle mixture screw. The only way I can get rid of the black smoke is by leaning the mixture out by alot. Which is not normal. I'll try the carb cleaner around the intake and see what happens.

Thanks, Ed

Thanks, Ed