Thats interesting. I'm in australia, all the decent conventional oils are around $40 for four litres, the GTX is often half that and sometimes as low as $10-12. I'm not knocking it - i always thought it was a respected brand, just been scratching my head recently about the price.

 

Castrol is a perfectly acceptable brand. In fact, it is my preferred brand if no discounts are present and price is mostly equal. In my Protege I almost always use Castrol Edge 5w30/10w30. I always forget oil is expensive in Australia!

Though an oil I have heard great things about from the very few people who use it here is Penrite! If their 10w50 oil was more widely available here That would probably be almost all I used in rotary applications. I believe their are based out of Australia!

 

Starting today All new diesel oils produced are supposed to be moving to the CK-4 rating which according to Ford does not provide adequate protection for their diesel engines. They now require Ford diesel engines to continue using CJ-4 or their own new standard. That may be worth looking into. Here is from a post in another Forum on the subject.

Ford Motor Company CK-4/FA-4 Ford Position Statement
Starting on December 1, 2016 the American Petroleum Institute (API) will begin licensing
two new diesel motor categories CK-4 and FA-4. API CK-4 is being released to replace
CJ-4. FA-4 is a low viscosity diesel oil released for diesel engines designed for a lower
viscosity oil.
API FA-4
Due to its low viscosity FA-4 should not be used in any Ford diesel vehicles at this time.
API CK-4
Ford will not be recommending the use of CK-4 motor oils in any Ford diesel engines,
new or old. Testing Ford has done on some CK-4 formulations have shown inadequate
wear protection compared to CJ-4 formulations developed and licensed before 2016.
Like many other diesel engine manufacturers, with their own internal OEM specification,
Ford will now be recommending oils that meet an OEM specification, Ford Material
Engineering Specification WSS-M2C171-F1. The customer should use an oil showing
that it meets this specification.
An oil showing CJ-4 in the API donut without showing CK-4 would be acceptable for
service even if not showing WSS-M2C171-F1. This oil would most likely be an older CJ-
4 formulation, developed and licensed prior to 2016. These oils could be around for
about a year after CK-4 licensing begins, December 1, 2016. Field experience and Ford
testing has shown that these older CJ-4 formulations provide acceptable 6.7L engine
protection.
To insure you protect your Ford diesel engine use an oil meeting Ford specification
WSS-M2C171-F1 like Motorcraft Super Duty Motor oil.

 

In an interesting twist..
I was watching a show that pretty well said that now all Factory recommendations are Bullshit and that after break in period the Oil that is recommended by the manufacturer on the engine is useless.
Dealers are just waiting to work on your car as the oil breaks the engine down so fast that they keep in business longer by allowing oil that doesn't do the job adequately to be recommended by them.So This makes the engines Crap out and either you spend money getting it fixed or buy another car.
If you see any car advertised as the "lowest cost to maintain"..then It's a lie.
ALL cars need maintenance and if you avoid it then you will spend money anyways.
Better that you bite the snake off at the head and rely on your own Gut than listen to the bullshit that the Manufacturer or dealer has to offer.

 

Valvoline VR1 20W50 Motor Oil

 

Checked in Walmart and wanted to clear up the application as the Rotella is still diesel/gas.
However, their Super Tech conventional oil CJ/SN 15-40 is only $9.11 for 5 qts or $1.22 per qt,
so picked up 4 containers-20 qts.

I know what some might think about the Super Tech oil, but have used the SuperTech synthetic 5-20 in our Acura TL
for years and the SuperTech conventional 5-20 in our '08 knock around car and no problems.
The TL just turned 100k miles while the '08 has taken a beating and turned 250k miles on our way home from Florida
last month.

Can't beat the price.

 

Do not use supertech two cycle oil. DO NOT USE SUPERTECH TWO STROKE OIL. don't use supertech two stroke oil.

My buddy ran it in his Yamaha 60hp for a few months because "can't beat the price"... now that power head is a great boat anchor. I foolishly then said I'll use the rest of your supertech two stroke oil... Now I don't have that old little Kawasaki dirt bike anymore.

Supertech does NOT do a good job lubricating rings. I can only assume it does a bad job of lubricating apex seals as well. Just Do Not Use Supertech Two Cycle Oil. don't use it.

 

Yes the Penrite is a lovely oil. That's what I use. I dont buy whatever's on special. Right or wrong I try and stick to the same oil for a given engine.

 

Only used their 2 stroke oil in chain saws and trimmer, not certain as to which 2 stroke oil that was used in the motorcycle, but
looking at the various SuperTech 2 cycle oils, most are recommended for use in small engines, lawn mowers, string trimmers, and chain saws.
Seems to be only one that is recommended for motorcycles.

 

^ just don't use it in something you have to push/paddle home.

 

I'm with Mr. Styx, peanut oil works for me. 20-50 in the summer, 10-40 in the winter.

 

Penrite HPR 30 20w-60 for n/a motors over here in Australia.
There's no be all end all for choice of oil everyone uses/trusts in something different.

 

Haha. That conspiracy theory type stuff. If a manufacturer requires a specific type of oil, they have the right to negate your warranty if you use something that does not follow your guidelines. Most of the manufacturer recommended oils just mean they are now getting some money off of that oil. If someone can prove they are recommending an inferior oil, then they have a lawsuit on their hands.

However, yes, there is no "cheapest to maintain" all cars need maintenance and it is the luck of the draw as to what parts may fail outside of basic maintenance.

 

I HAVE USED WALLY'S 2-STROKE OIL IN MY OLD EVINRUDE 70HP 3 CYL forever....never had lubrication problem one!!! it sees the Yw-3 or 2 or whatever....I wouldn't se it i a high dollar 250 hp $25K MOTOR....but we have put like 600-700 are hours the thing with no problems...and we bought it rebuilt....lol....

 

In my 12A I use Castrol 20W-50 or Valvoline 20W-50 and in my 13BT I use Valvoline VR1 20W-50. Whick is most likely the same as regular Valvoline.
My friend that has worked on rotaries since 1975 suggested these. When he did rebuilds he would use Mobile 1 in a new motor.

 

thanks for all the reply's folks...looks like it will be Castrol GTX for me...20/50
oops...didn't meant b all yelling and all in my last reply ...lol..