ivisiondesigns

Ahhh I need help! I bought an 85 GSL from a guy who passed emissions in August. Apparently the certificate expired so I have to re-smog it for ownership. Since he passed not too long ago I didn't think I'd have a problem. I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, oil filter, air filter and drove it like I was suicidal before I got it tested and I still didn't pass. Here are my results:

15 MPH
HC/CO
148/0.89 MAX
302/1.59 Measured

25 MPH
123/0.69 MAX
269/1.83 Measured

And this is on the smog certificate from August:
HC/CO
98/0.00

He told me when I bought the car that he replaced the ACV and the 0.00 CO looks a lot like he did. However, I think my cats (stock as far as I know) are working since I'm not blowing 800+ lol. I was thinking of putting ethanol in the tank and/or bypassing the ACV by connecting a hose from the air pump to the cat. Am I looking at the wrong hoses (bypassing the one with the check valve) or are they drastically different sizes? Would it pass visual?
Haha I'm kinda freaking because my permit expires at the end of the month. So the less work the better
Soon as I get my certificate I'm going to inyo county (where my parents live) and registering it there so I don't have to smog it anymore lol.
Thanks guys!

bliffle

Ethanol didn't help me. I think pumping the air direct to the cat is the answer.


B

ivisiondesigns

Oh yeah, I should point out that I have the idle set lean and this is a CA emissions test (I only need a test only certificate). I also think I miiiiiiight have an oil leak. Which might explain things. In that case, would the ACV bypass dilute enough of the exhaust (hypothetically if my results came from a working ACV)?
If anybody can tell me what kind of hoses I'll need to buy and baby me with some pictures I'd really appreciate it

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if the acv is working theres no need to bypass it. you look really close, you might just want to warm it up better before the test.

cdrad51

For reference on ACV testing, and graphics on the general emissions control system:

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/file...ssions_12A.pdf

Have fun and good luck.

ivisiondesigns

Ok I checked the ACV and I noticed two things:
1. When only the ACV hose was disconnected from the air cleaner it blew air even if the RPMs were under 1500 (even during idle).
2. When I disconnected the split air hose and the switching solenoid valve vacuum line no air was coming out of the split air hose port... which leads me to conclude that the ACV is toast?
Juuuust to make sure I don't have my junk all mixed up, the split air hose is the larger of the two hoses going down to the cats right? As opposed to the smaller one next to the port air switching valve that feeds the precats.
So if I wanted to bypass the ACV I should just route a hose straight from the air pump to where the split air hose goes?

cdrad51

Yes the split air hose is the larger of the two.

And yes that's how you'd bypass the ACV.

Of course make sure you only do it for emission testing and then revert.

nevarmore

**newbie raises hand**

Whats an ACV?

Keep us posted on how the this goes. I have to E-Check here in Ohio and it'd be nice to have a heads up on how to jury rig my car to pass it if I have to.

cdrad51

look in the pdf link above. That will define it for you, along with other abbreviations you'll need to deal with if you have to pass e-checks

ivisiondesigns

Ok I have some good news and some really bad news. The good news is they passed me on the visual and CO. The bad news is I somehow became a gross polluter in HCs. Somehow my hydrocarbons jumped up by 50%.
HC/CO
425/0.17 @ 15 mph
320/0.14 @ 25 mph
At least I kicked *** in CO. So umm yeah that kinda sucks. They made me wait an hour before they smogged my car and it was cold (for CA) and windy outside. Also, when I tried to warm it up before going there the hose from the air pump got disconnected so I had to drive it all the way back to an auto store to buy another clamp. After that I only drove a couple blocks to the smog station so maybe the cat got clogged in that time period? Not to mention the hour wait for it to cool down... I dunno but I'm screwed if I don't get it to pass before March. I'm thinking of getting there early tomorrow and probably pouring some gasline antifreeze in there before driving it like a maniac.
Maybe I should go to another shop? Are there any adverse affects to the car driving like this? (with a bypassed ACV) aaaaaand is it ok to rev it up higher? It makes a really shrill sound if you go above 4k (probably because the 5th and 6th ports aren't open?) I was too scared to rev it high lol.
Thanks, any help is muuuuuch appreciated!

85rotarypower

Has anyone actually thought of disconnecting the OMP for the emissions test? Since you are burning oil under normal operation with the OMP, which contributes to HC's, wouldn't disconnecting it decrease the HC's since you are no longer burning oil (if you don't have an internal leak). This might help, and the short time that the engine is actually running without the OMP shouldn't damage it.

RotaryRevn

all I know is a few years back my gslse would have been a gross polluter had I let them put my info in the computer, it was 2000 hc's at idle! I changed out the acv with another used one and my hc's dropped to 120 and I passed. This was before the rolling dyno system.