Need to know specifically how/what to mod front SE cover so I can swap in an S5 motor. Don't want to block it off because I need it in order to run S5 ecu (CA smog)

 

The s5 omp is much larger and uses 3 bolts instead of 2, and none of them line up with the holes on the front cover. Basically you need to weld some additional aluminum to build up the area on the front cover around the omp mount, then machine it flat and drill and tap some holes.
It's not super complicated, and any competent machine shop should be able to help you out. I was running this setup with my T2 swap initially, but went to a FC subframe a while back and put the FC front cover back on, Sorry I don't have any pics of it...

 

yeah its just the bolt pattern that's different. ive seen people go the other way too, and you weld a couple of aluminum blocks on the front cover and drill and tap them for the SA/FB engine mount

 

^not a bad idea either

 

Good idea,but I personally I wouldnt trust welded tabs on cast pot metal to hold up my engine. Hell,I dont like the stock 1st gen mounting system period!If the 2nd gen subframe wasnt as big a chore,I would have gone that route.

Heres my front cover/OMP mod......the best and only pic I have

 

Thank you Steve. Threw your posts have have me the confidence on doing te swap myself. I plan on ordering another front cover and modding and fit to the s5 before I swap. My gsl SE is my dd so I want to getting everything ready before I pull the motor because I don't want my car down for that long. Can anyone point me in the direction of a wiring diagram. All the links I have found no longer exist and this is the last peice of the puzzle for me to have 100% confidence in this swap.

 

S5 wiring is not too hard.
The entire right side harness is plug and play.The left side has to be cut at the ECU gangplug and built from scratch,which really is the best way to do it since you can delete all the un-needed dashboard wires and focus on whats required for just the engine (its only 10 or so wires)

The Factory Service Manual just cannot be beat for this.The S5 manual is far,far superior to the older books.It has flow charts and wiring diagrams that are very clear and easy to understand.If you dont buy one,then look online for info.The #1 most important page for wiring is F2-8.......it just doenst get any easier than that.

Heres an old post with some info,theres lots more where that came from......
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=page+f2-8

 

ALL the manuals are @ www.foxed.ca

 

You gentlemen are the poo!! Thank you for all of your guys knowledge all I have to do know is order my motor. Any suggestions on making this swap go as smooth as possible?

 

a friend of mine modded an SE front cover to accept an S5 omp for his S5 swap. his username here on the forum is schreindogg. shoot him a pm and he will tell you exactly what he did to make it work. i know he tig welded something on it and redrilled it.

 

or just plug the OMP in and tuck it somewhere and run the mechanical OMP in it's place.

 

^^^^^^

you dont have over 14,000 posts for nothing

 

S5 throttlebody doesnt have the arm to actuate the OMP. Switching to S4 throttlebody will not work because you need to be able to operate the dual S5 TPS sensors. Anything can be fabricated with enough time and creativity,but it just seemed easier to change one part (the cover) and keep the engine all S5

I originally was going to run the S4 OMP/tucked away S5 OMP setup because it was straight forward and easy,but there was no easy combination of parts that would work with the mechanical S4 OMP and the S5 EFI. I ended up just premixing for a couple months until I got everything sorted out. I ran a smog certified S4 TII engine for a couple years before going S5......Id never go back.

 

Here is a pic of mine. I just built up the area with filler rod with a tig welder then stuck it in the bridgeport and milled it flat.

 

Superb!

 

^That looks great Eric!

 

Run a stand alone and use a mechanical pump. When your s5 pump goes out a new one costs $1400. Not to mention it will fry your ecu.

 

^ You can pick up good used ones for less than $40, but yeah when they do go bad they typically take out the ECU with them... Lots of people run them for years without an issue though.

 

If you do go the e-omp route just make sure you ohm it out and it tests good before you install it.