Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I posted this in the interior/exterior section and got no response...

Perhaps you guys could help.

BlackWorksInc

Hmm... I would guess that if you could get a hold of some good adhesive for putting the molding back on, then just remove it, polish them, paint the whole car and reinstall them...

kgray

I believe that 3M makes a trim adhesive tape similar to that which they are put on with from the factory.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

I'd discuss this with your painter too. Prob with peeling off the side moldings is they tend to get a pretty nasty curve from being peeled off, so they don't lay flat correctly on re-install without some damn good adhesive and, likely, some tape or other to keep it in place till the bond sets. OR; drop the Big Bucks and install new molding after the respray. NOT removing them could be problematic on a color change unless the painter is really careful at the mask points. Don't want to see a sliver of the old paint peeking up next to the molding! Certainly on a color change its nice to have everything off.
Body shop might know a few tricks too as far as re-applying the molding. Presume you intend to pull
window and drop moldings too?

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

ray green

iTrader: (14)

The 3MM tape is the key, that stuff is powerful if your surfaces are clean and well prepared.

A little more work to take all the strips off, clean everything up and tape them back on (and expense, they don't give that 3MM tape away, but much cheaper at WalMart than the auto stores). But the finished product will look much better than the best masking job.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

I have removed the side mouldings before with a very very small guitar string. Put on a pair of good gloves and use the string back and forth like a saw. It is rather difficult, and you have to hold the wire back against the car to keep it from cutting into the the moulding but it can be done. I'm with Ray on the reattaching method. 3M double sided taped works great. Also, for restoring the mouldings I recommend a bottle of Mothers Back To Black. It's great stuff.

Jamie

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I would remove the molding from the car unless you were painting it the same color as the new exterior color. Its the small details like that which separate the good paint jobs from the cheap ones. Make sure to pull all the other moldings, handles, locks, etc. I am a firm believer that the only thing that should be taped off is the glass. Everything else is removable. Make sure to re-paint everything that was removed. I use vaseline to cover the key hole in the locks the shoot them with some paint so they look like new again.

As for the side molding - You have two options for the hard to remove pieces- use the guitar string method, or get a heat gun - set it on low, and slowly heat the surrounding area. The times I've had to pull molding, most came off fairly easy (thats a relative term) and the few stubborn pieces, I used the heat gun and they pulled right off. I did not have a problem with curving as stated above. I only see that happening if you pull from the sides instead of from the top/bottom. For areas like the doors, you can hit the back side with the heatgun on high.

Good luck and remember to post some photos when done!

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Agreed with the above, use a guitar string (or piano wire) and have a friend with a hair dryer
preheat the trim before and during removal. Use some Back to Black to get it... back to black,
and some Goof Off to get the sticky residue off the back. If you do end up bending it, when you
put the tape on make sure that you have heated the trim back up before reapplying.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Anybody here have repainted their car, and removed and reinstalled their molding?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

I did it several years ago. I pulled all the trim off, and painted. Then put back on.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Pulled mine, too. Takes a bit of patience; slow, continual pressure aided by gentle cutting of the old adhesive. Little tougher on the SA style because the molding sits down inside the body line groove.

You'll spend a good bit of time getting all the old adhesive off, but it all needs to come off of you want it to stick right later.

The 3M tape works well; put mine back on 6 years ago, still tight. I put a tiny bead of trim-adhesive glue along the top edge of the tape before installing the molding, on the theory that it would help prevent water from sitting atop the tape and loosening it. Seems I was right.

My molding was very oxidized; soaked it in silicone for 24 hours, then went after it with a fine-grain scrubby pad. Ended up with molding that looked damn-near new.. and forearms like Popeye's.

XLNDRVR

iTrader: (3)

Yes, removing the molding is definitely the way to go...much better finished product, even though it is more work.

I reused mine with no issues and refurbished with silicone, also.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

Yep, as stated above. I have done several FB's that way.

What paint are you planing on using? Acrylic or Poly - Single stage or Clear?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

No Clue. Still in the planning stages.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Pulled mine, glad too as I found a small rust spot underneath. Had them all painted black with a flexible adhesive so they always look great. used 3m 2 sided tape to re-attach.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

It can be done either way. Kind of depends on what kind of results you're after and your budget. Removing the trim yields the best results and if any of the trim needs attention it should be done anyway.

It's like the laws of physics, there are no shortcuts to quality. It will cost more and take longer, but once removed it's easier to both prep/paint the vehicle and the trim. There are several "trim black" products on the market which will restore your trim to like new condition.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

grow some ***** and just do it BUT I highly recommend a run to a local junkyard to practice before hitting your own car

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Junkyards around here haven't had FB's in ages..

At least it's good to know that others have done it with success.

I have been under the impression that once you remove the trim it is
ruined and you would not be able to be reinstalled again.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

the windshield are held by clips and a screw (near the door/fender). so it doesnt have to be a FB. any car will do since you just want the basic knowledge.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Mel, are you saying to remove the windshield before paint too?

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I wouldn't do that! The windshield is glued in with some kind of Titanium Glue and is nearly impossible to get out without damage. Also the windshield trim can be a nuisance, since the plastic clips that hold it down will all break when you take off the metal pieces, so those will need to be replaced.

I'd probably just mask all the windows except the rear hatch, which is easily removed (even the rear hatch glass could easily be masked, however). And as mentioned above, bite the bullet and remove the side trim and anything else that detaches easily for the best job. That's what I'll be doing soon for the Silver One, time to redo that 25 year old paint.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Ray is right, the windows are usually masked. But if your doing the windshield trim, just like the body moldings, removing it is the more thorough method. The plastic A pillar clips do break just thinking about taking them off. I recently bought a couple replacement hardware kits from black dragon. Includes the plastic and metal clips and was actually reasonably priced around $15 or so. Good things to have on the shelf.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

WTF? The windshield stays put, but do pull the trim moulding around it. Just buy the clip kit from Black Dragon - thats what I ended up doing after removing the trim for several paint jobs. Worth the $15 hands down. Just remember to remove the "gap" piece on the roof trim in the center before you paint it. Re-installation always goes on a bit different, so that piece is an adjustable piece. It will make sence AFTER you forget to remove it from the rest of the moulding when you paint it. Trust me on that!

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

So you're telling him to bring a compressor, paint gun, and respirator to a junk yard to re-paint some junk cars?


You can almost FEEL the sarcasm......cant you?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I meant to say windshield moldings.