Engine swap, not some gauges don't work
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
13B swapped in, now some gauges don't work
I swapped the 13B into my car from another and am now just getting back to working on the car. The speedo, tach, and water temp no longer work, though they did before the swap. I imagine that I pulled the speedo cable out of the back, as I remember the cable's always been pretty tight. While doing the swap, I had to disconnect the ECU in the passenger footwell to engage the fuel pump. Would that have anything to do with my tach or water temp? The donor car only had 5 wires in the engine bay, so for now I have a full harness, most of which doesn't go anywhere. I suspect that the water temp gauge wires plug in behind the t'stat, but need to check. Any idea why the tach wouldn't work?
This ported 13B FB is gonna be my daily driver, with the 2 as a backup. I know the carb's too big, but the Dellorto 48 should work better. I just hate driving without proper instrumentation. Any help?
P.S. I'm pretty paranoid about overheating the FB and have a fan that overlaps the oil cooler a bit. Should I also go to a 165 t'stat w/ no cats?
This ported 13B FB is gonna be my daily driver, with the 2 as a backup. I know the carb's too big, but the Dellorto 48 should work better. I just hate driving without proper instrumentation. Any help?
P.S. I'm pretty paranoid about overheating the FB and have a fan that overlaps the oil cooler a bit. Should I also go to a 165 t'stat w/ no cats?
Last edited by Crit; Feb 7, 2004 at 10:08 PM.
The tach isn't working because the wire to the leading or trailing (not sure) came off but that's impossible if you just changed a motor... unless it wasn't working before the swap or you played with anything on the drivers side engine bay electrical wise... cause swapping a motor shouldn't requiring messing with the tach at all unless you re-did the ignition also while swapping the motor... are you following this...?
The speedo can ONLY not be working if the cable from behind it is not HOOKED up to the transmission NO electricial to make that work, unless you want it to be light up at night.
This is a first gen right...?
The speedo can ONLY not be working if the cable from behind it is not HOOKED up to the transmission NO electricial to make that work, unless you want it to be light up at night.
This is a first gen right...?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 6
From: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the speedo came loose from the back side of the gauge while I was plugging the other side in. Mine's always been very unforgiving - no slack. The tach, then, is driven strictly by the trailing coil? You're right in that I never touched it - maybe something's been knocked loose. How 'bout the coolant temp? The sensor for that is the one that's on the back side of the t'stat, right?
The sensor for that is the one that's on the back side of the t'stat, right?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 6
From: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Okay, so I'm behind the dash now trying to get the speedo hooked up. I could swear the cable's shrunk 3 inches... My question is with the t'stat sensor - I remember seeing people say that it's the open/close switch that releases the choke. Are those two mechanisms separate or do they both sense that one part, or what? As for the tach, all the fuses are good and no visible problem in the wiring. I'll get the other two working and see if magic happens.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,438
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From: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
okay, so i'm testing the sender and looking for a resistance between the nipple on the sender and the block. I should see a resistance that changes as the engine warms up, right? Maybe it's all the grime, oil, and tough access to the sender, but I can only get an open circuit on both the 13B in the car and the 12A that just came out of it (so I know the sender should work)
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