I am pulling my engine to do a rebuild and everthing is prepped. Everthing is disconnected from the engine that needs to be and I have and engine stand set up. My problem is I cant find any bolts to use to attach the engine (12A) to the stand. I took my tranny bolts to Lowe's and Autozone but no luck at all. Anyone have a solution?

 

Not sure how you are trying to mount the stand to your engine , but you should try to connect by the front housing, which has studs from the AC bracket. I used 'Se lug nuts to bolt my Pineapple racing engine stand adapter to the engine.

 

Most hardware stores have just about every nut and bolt you could think of. Do you have an Ace hardware or something like that?

 

i think the only other one around here is a home depot. i guess i will check them out since no one around my immediate area has what i need.

 

Why are you pulling the motor? I thought we were almost there with the overheating issues? wtf? Like was said, its easier to bolt it to the stand from the front plate a/c mount, then you can rotate the engine so its standing straight up to "unstack" it.

 

How to set up the arms on an engine stand to work on a rotary (two rotor). It allows access to the plugs and everything! Highly recommended and cheaper than having to buy anything. It's what I used to rebuild my first 13B.

 

You might need to buy a couple bolts.

 

jeff, thanks for the pics, ill go look for some bolts for that.

rx7carl, I decided to do a basic rebuild - new gaskets, extreme cleaning, etc.; doesnt really have to do with the overheating problem. im still baffled that the coolant at the tsat wouldnt get hot with it installed. im replacing several other parts such as the clutch cylinders,etc. and im rebuilding the carb and making a DLIDFIS too so we will see if it still does it when im done working on it and then we can keep trying to fix it .

edit: hey jeff, i just went out and looked at my engine and in the 2 lower holes, there are studs threaded into them - are these hard to get out? and what are they for?

 

well i just found out that the front housing bolts are the same as the tranny bolts and since i couldnt find any to match those...im stuck again.....

 

i found that the long bolt for the alternator is the same size as the tranny bolts and i can use the one long tranny bolt also, so now i have 2 bolts i can use. i also found that the starter bolt isnt a direct fit but it threads in a little bit and tightens. do you think it would be sturdy enough if i had the tranny and alt bolts tightened up good and the starter bolt partially threaded in?

 

Look carefully at the threads. Tranny and alt bolts are 10mm x 1.25. Some others are 10mm x 1.5 (coarse thread) and won't thread into the engine. If you try it, you'll kill your bolts.

It's not too hard to remove the studs from nitrided engines (like yours).

I used two FB rearend suspension bolts in the bottom holes (12mm x 1.5) and bought two aftermarket bolts for the two upper holes (10mm x 1.25). You're on your own as far as length is concerned since I don't know how long your stand arms are offset.

All you have to do is measure how long they need to be, and go to the store with 10mm x 1.25 and 12mm x 1.5 tatooed somewhere and tell it to the employee. Find the closest lengths without getting too short. It's better to use washers under the bolt head than to only thread a couple threads into the engine. If you'll notice my two lower bolts needed one washer each. My two upper bolts were a tad short for my taste, but they were left over from an older project, so I figured all four bolts ought to hold the engine well enough and sure enough, they did. Much better than my 20B (it's not as solid so I'm really careful around it; a pic is coming soon).

 

whats the easiest way?

Im going back to lowes now to see if they have the right size/length.

The one in your avatar?

 

well i went to lowes again and had no luck again. they didnt have either of the sizes. autozone has the right sizes but not long enough. so i think i am going to use the tranny and alternator bolt for the top 2 holes, but i dont know what to do with the bottom ones. what if i just had the top to bolted on and the studs in the bottom inserted into the stand arms - do u think that would be alright?

 

That would probably work.

The reason why I'm careful with the 20B is because it's only using the two 10mm x 1.25 bolts.

 

I got mine from advanced auto parts

I got all 4 through the bell housing when I did mine, just be sure its tight

 

Well if that can hold your 20B, I'm sure it can hold my 12A . I just have to go rent an engine lift tommorow and im all set.

 

Notice on the 20B how there is a lot of iron around those bolts? Now check out the front of your 12A. The iron isn't as thick there. It looks like it could break if you put too much weight on it. Anyway, good luck finding some decent bolts.

 

Jeff,
That works great, thanks! After looking at this yesterday I went out to the garage and pulled out mt bag of rear end bolts and bolted the engine up. This is great. Thanks again ~