Engine Disassembly
#1
Engine Disassembly
Okay, the last time I tore down a rotary, I was using my dads shop facilities. Which has an air compressor.... Now, at this particular moment, I do not have access to an impact wrench.... Any great ideas on how to remove the flywheel nut? I have a 3/4'' breaker bar, and the corresponding socket. I have the flywheel locked up, but I cant seem to be able to loosen the nut without causing the engine to start to roll over....
I cant think of how to keep the block from rolling as I apply pressure to the bar. And I am about fed up, does anyone know is Jiffy Lube or Pep Boys would be able to spin this off, and if they would charge me?? Or do you have a back-yard mechanic solution?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
I cant think of how to keep the block from rolling as I apply pressure to the bar. And I am about fed up, does anyone know is Jiffy Lube or Pep Boys would be able to spin this off, and if they would charge me?? Or do you have a back-yard mechanic solution?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
The flywheel nut on my old junk engine that I took apart was able to be taken off almost by hand- but the front pully thing was the hardest. I just stood on the engine and used a huge pipe on the end of my socket. Very awkward to do but it worked. I guess you could try to make a jig to hold it, then bolt it to the floor or something if you wanted.
~b.k.
~b.k.
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Birmingham AL
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I used my parents truck to pickup my 12a block. I got the truck back to their house still with the block in the back. I was getting ready to drive it over to my house to drop the block off and the truck would not start. They wound up having it towed to the dealer. While it was being repaired I called the dealer to see if they would do me a favor. Good news is they broke the flywheel nut loose, bad news my parents got charged $700 for wiring harness that did not fix the electrical issue. At the same time I had a 13b block that I broke loose myself. I used a piece of bed frame to brake the flywheel. It just so happened that it had holes in it that matched up to the flywheel. Next I just used a 3/4 breaker bar, stood on it and bounced a couple times. I have had lug nuts that required more work. There is no denying I just got lucky. I just hope when I get ready to break the rest of the block down for a rebuild my luck will hold out.
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#8
First, make sure you heat the nut up to kill the loctite and silicone sealant. Also do this to the front pulley bolt. Really hot. Get a long piece of steel (~4 feet) and drill a couple holes to bolt to the flywheel where the pressure plate bolts up. Then put the steel bar against the floor or other solid object and put the socket and breaker bar on, oriented a dozen or so degrees above the steel bar. Whack the breaker bar with a mallet a few times to break the nut loose.
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Rochester, NY
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I just drilled a hole thru the hexnut to break the bond with the E-shaft.
actually several small holes, running from the threads to the edge of the hex, so it actualyl split one side of the hexnut.
it came off by hand.
only minimal material was removed from the E-shaft threads, nothing to worry about.
and this only took me 10 minutes or so.
actually several small holes, running from the threads to the edge of the hex, so it actualyl split one side of the hexnut.
it came off by hand.
only minimal material was removed from the E-shaft threads, nothing to worry about.
and this only took me 10 minutes or so.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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