Ok, I have to rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and slowly let the clutch out otherwise teh can isn't going anywhere.

The engine idles fine if a bit high (I haven't gotten around to adjusting the accelerator cable since putting the carb back on).

What is causing the engine to die under load? My guess is it is something simple but I don't know where to begin. Will a simple tuning of the carb fix it?

 

Are you guys telling me you've never heard of this?!

 

Check for signs of flooding. It sounds a lot like what mine did when the needle valves were shot.

Hope this helps.

BrianHeston

 

My guess would just be the carb's idle needs tuned better. It's probably running way too rich or lean at idle, and when it gets load put on it at low revs it can't support the load.

 

try tuning it with a fuel pressure guage. that's what i did

 

sounds to me that the secondaries are opening way to soon........thus floodin it like mentioned above

 

It is idling high, about 1.1k rpm, but I think that is because I haven't adjusted the accelerator cable since putting the carb back on. The guy I bought the are from had teh same trouble though and he didn't remove the carb.

The carb kit came with two new needles but I ccouldn't get the old ones out. It's a brass (??) screw and when I tried backing them out they chipped. They are under the floats. I didn't want to totally screw them up so I left the old ones in. Was that a mistake? How do I get the old ones out? I don't want to try and drill them out and retap. I'd probably make it worse than it is now.

 

^

 

does it work fine once its warm?

 

What's warm? I've let it idle for 1/2 hour in the drive way trying to charge the battery but I haven't driven it any distance since I don't have a tag or insurance on it.

 

mine will stall real easy when its cold and wont run below about 3K until then, then it will idle no prob.

 

Nah, temperature gauge and engine are warm. I thought you might have meant the tranny or diff.

 

Mine died under load because it couldn't get enough fuel except to idle. Check the Fuel Filter, too.

 

I have the manual so I can look it up later but where is the fuel filter?

When I need the air and oil, the parts store didn't have any fuel filters in stock. I need to find a better store. They are always out of the oil filter for my Sentra.

So, does anyone know how I can get those needle vavles out?

 

^

 

Remove the needles and soak the seats for at least 15-20 mins in PB Blaster (you can pick it up at oreillys, autozone, etc). Its like wd-40 on steroids.

Take a pair of vice grips and lock them on the seats and rotate counter clockwise until they break loose from the aluminum threads. The brass from the seats tends to gall a bit to the aluminum threads due to the way the metal is.

I hope this answers what you are asking. The needles themselves should just fall out since the float lever is the only thing holding them in.

 

The Fuel Filter on My 85 GSL is on the rear axcel just a screw down clip and two hose clamps. Make sure you are ready for feul to come out then you pull the old filter out.

When mine went bad I was on a major highway on the way to a training class. The car wouldn't run over 60 KM/h. The filter cloged just after I replaced the gas tank. They should be easy to find. They had them on shelf at the local chain car parts store (Canadian Tire, kinda like Home Depot, with out the lumber, and full grage, and auto parts section)

 

I'm not sure if that answers it or not. The needles are threaded and won't move. I'll have to post a picture when I get home if I think about it. I don't want to bust the tops off and have to drill them out although if I drilled it they might come out easier. I really don't want to pull the carb back off.

I'll try the filter first. I just need to get to another store. There's another a couple of blocks down.

 

The needles arent threaded. The needles are the tiny brass square things with the rubber tip at one end and the spring inside them. The seats are what the needle fits into and they are brass with a slot in the top for a screwdriver, but like you said, its easy to break the top of the brass off.

Take the needles out, soak the seats in pb blaster, than use a pair of vise grips and they will come out.

 

Well, then will it do any good to replace them (the seats)? I replaced the needles since they slipped in and attached to the springs.

 

^

 

theres this little vacuum type device on the passenger side of the carb, I will see if I can get you a pic tommorrow,

you will need to unplug it.

 

There are 2 vacuum delay switches or some such. Little green bulb looking things. One is broken so I bypassed it using a straight piece of vacuum hose. The other is still connected to the original hose. They break before they come out.

If that isn't what you are talking about then I'm not sure where or what it is.

 

the thing I am talking about is on the driver side of the engine, follow the second biggest tube down from your airbox and there it is,

it looks like a 6 port actuator turned sideways.

here is what a six port actuator looks like to give you an idea of what your looking for,




kinda like one of those only turned sideways, see if the rod is extended out on yours, or in like the ones in the photo

 

Which side? You just said drivers side. I'll look for it but do I need to replace it or get rid of it altogether?