My 85 GSL-SE I bought has a couple issues.

1st, is it normal for the car to start up like an old airplane? Like it goes "rrrrr....rrrrrr.....rrrrrr.....rrrrrr....rrrrrr.. .Starts." If I pull the plugs, the sound is a constant whirring of the starter and consistant puffs coming from the holes. However, with plugs in, it seems like it's fighting the compression to spin the motor. I'm pretty sure the compression is good, since it can idle on ONE trailing plug and drive on trailings only. Could it be that the starter is weak/not getting enough power...but the battery is new. On my FD and FC it starts/sounds like a piston engine.

2nd, there seems to be no "Acc" function on the ignition. If the key is back to "lock" the radio, cigar, and clock still function..... this DRAINS the battery (which is why I got a new one). "on" will turn on the windows and warning lights, but it seems to never turn off the accessories. I have to pop the hood and pull off the neg. battery terminal when I park to keep it from draining.

Any ideas?

 

Start with new battery cables. Chances are, the original ones are corroded internally (very common with these cars). Rotaries take a lot of power to the starter to get them going...

 

I'll try that. Where does the positive one go to...

 

Positive runs two places if I remember right:

1) The small wire goes to the fusible links. (The brown box on the drivers side shock tower. You'll see a phillips head screw that it attaches to.)

2) I believe that the main positive cable runs down to the starter. There is a 12 or 14mm brass colored nut on the starter where it bolts on.

Be sure to take out the battery before you replace the cables. If you don't the results could be shocking.

Jamie

 

When I bought my car in 1995 one of the issues was the electrical system freaking out on me...it was that positive cable. The previous owner replaced it but it didn't split at the fusible link box. It was my first RX7 and I didn't know any better. Even when I took it to Mazda they didn't notice it. After giving them half my paycheck I still had the same problem. $3 and 5 minutes after a guy at a parts store asked me where my engine ground was, I fixed it. Now I always keep an extra ground strap on my engine...I felt so stupid...LOL

 

OK I bought some cable to replace the (original?) stock ones. After just peeling the tape off the + cable, I can see corrosion in the cable itself. I think replacing it will make a huge difference.

Any thoughts on my ACC dilema?

 

OK replaced the batt cables and... SUCCESS!!

It actually starts like a normal car now! It takes literally one second to start up. Thanks!

Plus, my volts are now running above 12 (it used to be right on 12).

 

Good to hear it man. Thanks for letting us know the solution to your issue.

 

In the on position it will provide power for everything, that is what it is supposed to do.

As far as the power remaining for the lighter and radio when you turn it to the lock position. It's either a bad electrical portion of the ignition switch or someone has rerouted that wiring for that. Is it a stock stereo?
As far as draining the battery goes. Unless you are leaving the radio on the battery should not be draining. The clock actually has power to it all of the time, that is the way it is supposed to be.

 

I think part of the "draining" was the corroded cables not letting the alternator actually charge the battery correctly.

 

Is it an aftermarket stereo and does it still come on when you shut the engine off?

 

It's an old aftermarket, it has a tape deck and EQ and "Nissan" hand-written on the back of it. It can be turned on when the car is off.

Besides the radio and cigar, what else comes on with "ACC?"

 

Find the main power feed to the radio and reroute it to any circuit that turns off with the ignition...

 

That's all. The radio is probably wired straight to the fuse box.