Eriks85Rx7

Ok time to let the cat out of the bag! I BOUGHT the turbo draw through setup on ebay. Its in my house right now and it does not look bad. The Seller labeled every hole,valve and nipple on the whole setup. Evrything appears to be in good conditon. It has 26000 miles on it. It is a complete ray jay turbo setup and is not custom. The only thing custom was the downpipe. I KNOW i KNOW ANOTHER turbo 12a question thread. It seems popular lately. anywho I have read the 12a turbo archive threads.

So here is my setup
Rebuilt Street Ported 12A
Turbo:
Ray Jay Turbonetics Draw through kit.
Dellroto Sidedraft Carb
Voodoo III manual boost controller w/ceramic ball.

Fuel
Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
MSD High Pressure Electric fuel Pump.
ttp://store.summitracing.com/partdet...0&autoview=sku

Oil/Cooling
Stock 12a water pump
83-85 Stock Rad ( tall)
1979-1982 FMOC
Electric Fan
Stock OMP
Premix Fuel
Im going to make the return oil line go in just below the OMP as this is supposed to be a good spot.
Will run Castrol full synthetic or Mobil 1

clutch
stage 2 Exedy Racing clutch (im assuming I'll need a new one)


Ignition
Locked dizzy
MSd Coils? <- Necessary?
10.2mm Plug wires.

The stock boost setting is 10psi but this setup has no Intercooler as it is draw through. Will this setup be a safe reliable setup or am I pushing it. I do not plan running 10psi constantly more like 5psi. I asked the seller how he ran it without an intercooler and he said the carb has hook ups for the heater hoses to make the coolant run through it (which it does) and that would be the cooling factor. but how does hot coolant Cool anything>? surely intake temps aren't that hot?
Constructive criticism is welcome.

Eriks85Rx7

eh?

mikewoodkozar

Hmmm, if it were my setup i would run 5-7 psi of boost and call it good.

The question on the coolant passages is a good one; i have no idea what intake temps could be in that setup especially so close to the heat soaking side of the engine...

Again, if it were mine i would look into the setup of the factory 12AT motor and see if it was running coolant through the carb, if so then i would run the coolant through the intake.

Other than that, i am interested to see/hear how this turns out

Good luck!

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Remember that the exhaust on these cars is unbelievably hot, so the turbo itself will be scorching hot and that will transfer into all the parts around it, so coolant will definitly help lower the intake temps. You may want to consider a small rad type cooler to plumb into the system between the engine and turbo system. Just a thought. Or perhaps you could hook up a sprayer system to help lower the temps. Also if 10PSI is the stock setting and you have a strong motor, there's no reason why you can't leave it at that.

tunafish

If you want to lower the fuel air temp for a draw trough use Water / Methanol injection

Eriks85Rx7

thats what i've been wondering really. I cant seem to find a detailed page about the Factory setup. My goal was to create similar performance 12a as the factory GT rx7. Im hoping by running premix it may help lubricate the turbo since it already has to shove the fuel through which is hard on it.

Any guesses on what 5-7psi of boost a street port 12a will put down? 155? 165 << my goal Factory Hp

rx7learner

Congrats man I was the one that posted that setup on our forum while it was active (if its the one I'm thinking about)... 500$ was a good deal for it even though it draw through. Good luck with everything.

Eriks85Rx7

eh?

Qbuilt

What you have posted for a setup looks pretty good. Just make sure you have a fuel system capable of delivering lots of fuel, 3/8 lines for feed and return are a must.
However, I too would recommend a water/meth kit. Snow performance makes a very good kit with a variable controller for a great price. The coolant running through the carb/intake really isnt going to do much for intake temps in my opinion. Yes maybe a little but if you truly want a reliable setup, keep the boost lower then 10psi and spray some alcohol in there.
Good luck, I think this will turn out great!

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

10 psi is safe with this setup, you have to remember that the fuel flows with the air, cooling it as its compressed and going through the intake. Also turbochargers can push up to 350 degrees of heat out of the compressor, and coolant is right around 175-185 degrees, so still much cooler, and a good idea to hook up. Dellorto intake, I am not sure how that is going to work out, as the Ray Jays I worked with used a Holley or Carter style 4 barrel carb on top. Stock NGK plug wires will be good, a MSD 6al, and coil is definitely a good idea on the leading. Lock the timing in at 15-18 degrees, Trailing with a 10-12 degree split. If you can, take off your front cover and oil pan, install the GSL-SE oil pump, and put in a 110psi oil pressure regulator. The 12a's springs will collapse from the lack of oil cooling otherwise with enough time. And 4 trailing plugs would be a good idea as well. Hope that helps!

Eriks85Rx7

So my setup is not good lol if my springs are going to collapse I wouldnt call it a safe setup haha. 110 psi regulator is must? I was told the stock 12a pump was good by itself and that premixing also will provide ample lube but if my springs will still collapse thats no good.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

10psi it wont hurt the springs, I think usually in the 18-19psi range is where we started seeing a problem. I would just be safe however, since the cost is nearly nothing (nice used SE pump, and nice used FD rear regulator, maybe $50 for both?) and you'll be pulling the oil pan to drill the drain anyway. Kill two birds with one stone.

Eriks85Rx7

I was planning on drilling the return line right under the omp as i heard this was a good spot. i keep my eyes open for a SE pump and fd regulator.

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Looks like you've got most of the info you need. Anyway, if you go with the water/methanol injection you might want to think about installing a "low water" light. I've read through threads where other members use Mazda B2200 windshield washer tanks with a sensor wired to an interior light to inform them when their water levels are low. Any type of washer fluid tank with a sensor would work, or you could modify your tank of choice with the sensor a bit above the bottom so you'd still have a little bit left in the tank once the light comes on. That's what I'd do if I were to go that route. Seems to me like having the sensor on the bottom of the tank is really another factory-style idiot light. Once the light illuminates, it's too late. I'd want a bit more notice than that...

Eriks85Rx7

Thats a good idea, very good idea. I just happen to remove the stock windshield washer holder since the pump didnt work. If i happen to get a pump i could just hook it up to spray water into the intake. and reduce temps after a hard run.