Engine bay harness from scratch?
Engine bay harness from scratch?
as the title states, I am thinking of building my own harness. It cant be difficult and I am sure someone has done it. I am about to run my own "harness" for my fuel pump, would like to get the rest of the car on its own, new harness as well.
If anyone has done this, has a diagram of some sort or some insight on completing this task, post up.
No reason a engine bay cant look like this...this is a RHD car, but still....
If anyone has done this, has a diagram of some sort or some insight on completing this task, post up.
No reason a engine bay cant look like this...this is a RHD car, but still....
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
that car has the factory harness!
on mine, i started with a used harness, took out the wires i didn't need, and put it in.
with stock ignition, headlights, turn signals, horns, and alternator, um you can loose like 8 wires.
its a TON of work to shave 1/2 a pound, and well i wanted it like this, but mine looks stock.
on mine, i started with a used harness, took out the wires i didn't need, and put it in.
with stock ignition, headlights, turn signals, horns, and alternator, um you can loose like 8 wires.
its a TON of work to shave 1/2 a pound, and well i wanted it like this, but mine looks stock.
Yeah like the post above, just get a used harness and take all the tape off and follow the wires to things you aren't using. Take all the wires not being used out and then get some new wire wrap and viola!
2 things I'd recommend you'll need:
1) Correct factory wiring diagram for your year RX7
2) you'll need (or i recommend you use...) correct OEM-style connectors, which can be bought here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
if you haven't already figured it out there is a separate engine-only SUB-harness, then the MAIN harness that runs from the inside (as in: all dash electrics) thru the firewall and around the perimeter of the engine compartment. Quite easy to figure out what you can chop from the _engine_ harness, but you'll want to know what your chopping on the MAIN as it could have consequences....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
1) Correct factory wiring diagram for your year RX7
2) you'll need (or i recommend you use...) correct OEM-style connectors, which can be bought here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
if you haven't already figured it out there is a separate engine-only SUB-harness, then the MAIN harness that runs from the inside (as in: all dash electrics) thru the firewall and around the perimeter of the engine compartment. Quite easy to figure out what you can chop from the _engine_ harness, but you'll want to know what your chopping on the MAIN as it could have consequences....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
dark side i sense in him
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 0
From: Savannah to Atlanta to Williamsburg
Ahhh the power of the search button!
Was just thinking the same thing.. Let me know how this works. I am tired of fixing 1 wire at a time or a relay here then there. The car is 25 years old, and would like to get the electrical portion out of the way.
Can you take pics or just describe how much of a pain in the *** / time consuming is?
Thanks in advance!
Was just thinking the same thing.. Let me know how this works. I am tired of fixing 1 wire at a time or a relay here then there. The car is 25 years old, and would like to get the electrical portion out of the way.
Can you take pics or just describe how much of a pain in the *** / time consuming is?
Thanks in advance!
I have completely rewired my whole car for simplicity. You are looking at alot of work depending how far you actually want to go with this.
How good of a job is directly related to how well you can read a wiring diagram and your knowledge on electrical systems.
It is a smart idea to swap over all the high amperage circuits to relay circuits (power windows, head lights etc).
I would not advise this for a novice, because you may find yourself way over your head very quickly. I would strongly recommend making your own wiring diagram, or use the same colour of wiring as originally used for making future diagnosing of problems easier.
Now that being said, I would estimate I probally have under 100 hours into rewiring my whole car. Keep in mind I am using alot of aftermarket components, standalone fuel management, rewired all lights, the basics going to the cluster etc.
How good of a job is directly related to how well you can read a wiring diagram and your knowledge on electrical systems.
It is a smart idea to swap over all the high amperage circuits to relay circuits (power windows, head lights etc).
I would not advise this for a novice, because you may find yourself way over your head very quickly. I would strongly recommend making your own wiring diagram, or use the same colour of wiring as originally used for making future diagnosing of problems easier.
Now that being said, I would estimate I probally have under 100 hours into rewiring my whole car. Keep in mind I am using alot of aftermarket components, standalone fuel management, rewired all lights, the basics going to the cluster etc.
that car has the factory harness!
on mine, i started with a used harness, took out the wires i didn't need, and put it in.
with stock ignition, headlights, turn signals, horns, and alternator, um you can loose like 8 wires.
its a TON of work to shave 1/2 a pound, and well i wanted it like this, but mine looks stock.
on mine, i started with a used harness, took out the wires i didn't need, and put it in.
with stock ignition, headlights, turn signals, horns, and alternator, um you can loose like 8 wires.
its a TON of work to shave 1/2 a pound, and well i wanted it like this, but mine looks stock.
Anybody looking to sell a car's full harness?
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If you want to go for a clean look, you can get rid of a TON of engine bay wires.
For example, here is the X-01 harness:

I have actually taken out that whole bulky connector and soldered those wires together.
Here is the driver side harness completely unwrapped:

I would recommend wearing gloves, the tape they used combined with being in a hot engine
bay for decades makes the adhesive turn to thick molasses.
This is about a third of all the wiring removed. Most of the bulk is the wire wrap and loom.

I never took a picture of it when I was "done", but the main harness was visibly thinner and
much cleaner. Currently I am going to run the wiring behind the fender for the ultra clean
look.
Things you can do to make this easier on you:
LABEL! Label everything.
Put nuts/bolts back in their respective places or in a labeled container
Harbor Freight has a rack of assorted wire for $30. I spent $40 and got the rack, a soldering
torch, spool of solder, shrinkwrap, and soldering iron. Look in a magazine for the 20% off
coupon, they are in pretty much every magazine now
While you are in there, add some relays! It helps the whole electrical system when high
power users have their own source. I added relays to: Fuel pump, Headlights (high and low),
Fan, and starter button. If you really want to go crazy do the HD relays for the ignition
cylinder found in the archives.
For example, here is the X-01 harness:

I have actually taken out that whole bulky connector and soldered those wires together.
Here is the driver side harness completely unwrapped:

I would recommend wearing gloves, the tape they used combined with being in a hot engine
bay for decades makes the adhesive turn to thick molasses.
This is about a third of all the wiring removed. Most of the bulk is the wire wrap and loom.

I never took a picture of it when I was "done", but the main harness was visibly thinner and
much cleaner. Currently I am going to run the wiring behind the fender for the ultra clean
look.
Things you can do to make this easier on you:
LABEL! Label everything.
Put nuts/bolts back in their respective places or in a labeled container
Harbor Freight has a rack of assorted wire for $30. I spent $40 and got the rack, a soldering
torch, spool of solder, shrinkwrap, and soldering iron. Look in a magazine for the 20% off
coupon, they are in pretty much every magazine now
While you are in there, add some relays! It helps the whole electrical system when high
power users have their own source. I added relays to: Fuel pump, Headlights (high and low),
Fan, and starter button. If you really want to go crazy do the HD relays for the ignition
cylinder found in the archives.
dark side i sense in him
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 0
From: Savannah to Atlanta to Williamsburg
I have completely rewired my whole car for simplicity. You are looking at alot of work depending how far you actually want to go with this.
How good of a job is directly related to how well you can read a wiring diagram and your knowledge on electrical systems.
It is a smart idea to swap over all the high amperage circuits to relay circuits (power windows, head lights etc).
I would not advise this for a novice, because you may find yourself way over your head very quickly. I would strongly recommend making your own wiring diagram, or use the same colour of wiring as originally used for making future diagnosing of problems easier.
Now that being said, I would estimate I probally have under 100 hours into rewiring my whole car. Keep in mind I am using alot of aftermarket components, standalone fuel management, rewired all lights, the basics going to the cluster etc.
How good of a job is directly related to how well you can read a wiring diagram and your knowledge on electrical systems.
It is a smart idea to swap over all the high amperage circuits to relay circuits (power windows, head lights etc).
I would not advise this for a novice, because you may find yourself way over your head very quickly. I would strongly recommend making your own wiring diagram, or use the same colour of wiring as originally used for making future diagnosing of problems easier.
Now that being said, I would estimate I probally have under 100 hours into rewiring my whole car. Keep in mind I am using alot of aftermarket components, standalone fuel management, rewired all lights, the basics going to the cluster etc.
Thanks again
Best way to do a harness from scratch is gonna be studying that FSM like the bible, string and lots of spools of wire. There was a thread a while ago about purchasing new OEM connectors and pins. Also the string is to lay out where your harness will go so you know how much length to cut and so on. Wish I had the money when I decided to do my wiring, would've done it from scratch rather than the mess I did splicing two harnesses together.
dark side i sense in him
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 0
From: Savannah to Atlanta to Williamsburg
2 things I'd recommend you'll need:
1) Correct factory wiring diagram for your year RX7
2) you'll need (or i recommend you use...) correct OEM-style connectors, which can be bought here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
1) Correct factory wiring diagram for your year RX7
2) you'll need (or i recommend you use...) correct OEM-style connectors, which can be bought here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
i recently did mine: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/disposing-old-wiring-916936/
there are some good links in there as well
there are some good links in there as well
dark side i sense in him
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 0
From: Savannah to Atlanta to Williamsburg
If your going to redo the harness, don't just cut the wires are the connector. De-pin the wire. If one of those shorts and causes an issue, you could have a heck of a time finding the problem.
theres nothing down there for them to short on. i admit its not the cleanest job ever. but its done. i will de-pin them eventually. just havent gotten around to it
I'm going tom be rewiring the whole car using this harness....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EZ-WI...#ht_654wt_1165
These guys are just in Daytona, so if I have any issues they're not too far off. Personally I think it would be easier to re-wire the whole car, rather than use the Mazda schematic. There are many short comings to the way Mazda set theses cars up 20+ years ago. I'll be adding some relays to the power windows and what not, so all in all I don;t think it'll be too bad.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EZ-WI...#ht_654wt_1165
These guys are just in Daytona, so if I have any issues they're not too far off. Personally I think it would be easier to re-wire the whole car, rather than use the Mazda schematic. There are many short comings to the way Mazda set theses cars up 20+ years ago. I'll be adding some relays to the power windows and what not, so all in all I don;t think it'll be too bad.
Last edited by Directfreak; Oct 23, 2010 at 11:41 AM.
With a Painless wiring kit and those OEM Connectors from Beaver Power you could build a nice new harness with the simplicity of a Race Car.
You could then properly hide all the wires like Zap Bits does in all the Australian Rotaries tucked/hidden wire setups.
On top of that, you'd have the luxury of keeping all the stock OEM switches, steering columns, etc. No soldering should really be required.
Here's a good thread on how some people rewired theirs too:
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=79353
You could then properly hide all the wires like Zap Bits does in all the Australian Rotaries tucked/hidden wire setups.
On top of that, you'd have the luxury of keeping all the stock OEM switches, steering columns, etc. No soldering should really be required.
Here's a good thread on how some people rewired theirs too:
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=79353
Last edited by Directfreak; Oct 23, 2010 at 12:51 PM.
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