1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Electrical Problem

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Old 01-06-05, 09:30 AM
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sfc711

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Electrical Problem

I just got a 84 FB GLS-SE and put it on the road yesterday after making it all legal/ins. reg/insp. sticker, Crank it up this morning and tach was not working right, let it warm up until it reach proper op temp, wnt to get some doughnuts. About a 1/4 mile down the road, instrument lights came on, engine kept running with no niuses problems etc. Got back home tunrned engine off, cranked it back up lights still on. Can anyone help? Thanks, GAry
Old 01-06-05, 09:40 AM
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The tach not working could be a loose connection somewhere, but more likely a trailing ignitor issue.

The insturment cluster lights coming on (as they do when you first turn the key on?) while the engine is running says to me that you need to check the plug on the back of the alternator (not the wire, theres a plug). Make sure its making good connection. Also on the drivers side inner fender up by the brake booster/master cylinder theres a little box that is the choke and check relay or something like that. Its part of that circuit also. Check the plugs on that box also.

~T.J.
Old 01-06-05, 12:09 PM
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Electrical Problem

Thanks for the info, I had bought a new alt. belt yesterday because the one on there was kinda sqealing, had a friend who works at O;Reilleys check it out and said that it was stretch out. Well when I popped the hood to check on what you told me too look for , there was the belt shredded to hell. Now I just bought a manual on Ebay last week for the car but it has not arrive yet so how do I put the new belt on? I know that I have to loosen the alt bracket, but do I have to unhook all the other belts to get this one on. Let me know and thanks for the help
Old 01-06-05, 12:47 PM
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Yes, you have to remove all of the belts in front of the alt belt to get it on. So if you have A/C and P/S, you would remove the A/C belt, then the P/S belt, then the air pump belt. Now you can put on the new alternator belt. The air pump, alternator, and A/C compressor have a bolt through a slot that you lossen for belt adjustment/removal. The P/S belt uses a long bolt through the idler pulley that you loosen to remove the belt tension in order to remove. Then reinstall in the opposite order. Sometimes it is easier to take the fan off to change the belts, but it is not absolutly needed. You can just slip the belts around the fan to get them on/off.

Also, check the alt to make sure the pulley spins freely. The noise could have been from a bad alternator bearing. If the alt bearing seized up, this could cause the belt to shread. It could be that the belt is just old and rotten. You should take this opportunity to replace all of the belts since you are going to have to take them all off anyway.
Old 01-06-05, 01:35 PM
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Belts

Thanks, will change all of them. Car has sit up a while before I got it and belts look dry rotted. I did a tune up on it and should've changed them too but Xmas was here and I had my 17yo here who was in Germany last 2yrs. Thanks
Old 01-06-05, 05:05 PM
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I am having trouble with the last belt. Loosened up the long bolt but still can't get the PS belt off. Is there another bolt to loosen or do I ave to take tension off somewhere by prying up something? i used to be a Physician's Assistent in the Army and can work great on human bodies but when it comes to mechs I suck. Thanks, Gary
Old 01-06-05, 05:30 PM
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Try tapping on the idler pulley with a rubber mallet or something, it should slide down and take the tension of the belt. Sometimes that pulley sticks a bit. It is just that one bolt that runs downward behind the idler pulley to remove that belt. You can see it by looking down on the engine just left (when facing the car) of where the A/C compressor is. I usually loosen that bolt with a 12mm socket with a 6" extension. It takes like 10 or so revolutions of the socket wrench to get the bolt loose enough to remove the belt (I also have to tap on the wrench or the pulley sometimes to get it to move down).
Old 01-06-05, 05:40 PM
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Belts

I pulled the bolt all the way out and tried to tap on the belt with a screwdriver and hammer , nothing. I just put some break away on it and let it se for a few, still nothing. Will get a rubber mallet in the morning and try again since it is dark already and I am inan Apt open parking lot with no lights to seeby and we just got some 30degree weather. If no luck tomorrow will talk to you again. Thanks, Gary
Old 01-06-05, 05:49 PM
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Well, I have never had that much trouble with it. Maybe try some PB Blaster. It is suppose to work well for stuck bolts and such. We are talking about the same bolt, right? The bolt that I am talking about is one that is about 6-8" long, that runs downward between the distributor and the A/C compressor. Just want to make sure that you removed the right bolt (I'm sure you did, though). Maybe put the bolt back in part way and hit it with the hammer (so you don't have to worry about damaging the pulley). The bolt does not have to be removed to get the belt off, just loosened a bit. Let us know how it goes. Good luck.

Kent
Old 01-06-05, 06:39 PM
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Yep that is the same bolt. Pulley looked like it has some rust on it. Used this stuff that I we used in the Army on our M1 Abrams/M2 Bradleys on the rusted track pad bolts. Will let it set overnight and try in the am. Thanks, Gary
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