Electric dizzy install...
03-29-05, 12:14 PM
#1
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Electric dizzy install...
I am about to install my electric dizzy and take out my old points one.. i just am not sure about the wiring... i have read all the things about it but i need a visual.. so if anyone has any pics on where to run the wires to it would help me out greatly. i will take pics of the install so we can turn it into a how to.
03-29-05, 12:51 PM
#2
DO you have a test light? Find out which wire is hot (on) when the ignition switch is in the ON posistion. Then determine which wire is on when the key is in th eSTART position. Y these two together and feed it to the + terminals of all the coils and B terminals of all the ignitors. Then wire the C terminals of each ignitor to its respective coil - terminal. The trailing coil is more toward the front of the car for easier coil to cap wire routing.
Do you understand the relationship of the reluctor wheel in the electronic dizzy and how it's supposed to be aligned when installing the dizzy in the front cover? How about the flat spot on the shaft?
Do you understand the relationship of the reluctor wheel in the electronic dizzy and how it's supposed to be aligned when installing the dizzy in the front cover? How about the flat spot on the shaft?
03-29-05, 01:52 PM
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oh yeah i get all that.. i have everything set up almost.. i just need to know where the black wire from the new dizzy goes? i have a pic if i can figure out how to put it on here..
03-29-05, 01:57 PM
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and i am following the write up on http://www.mazspeed.com/ignitionswap.htm so that is how i have it wired up so far... then i just combine that with the 2nd gen coil write up and i think i have everything figured out.. i just need to run some new wire for the c terminal to the negative of the coils..
03-29-05, 02:01 PM
#7
2nd gen coil you say? Please do not damage the original ignitor down in the base assembly. Bypass it for now to get your engine running. I'm going to figure out a way to trigger this ignitor with a J-109 after my MegaSquirted 20B and rebuilt 13B are running. The 2nd gen ignitor is much more powerful than a J-109, but it wasn't designed to trigger from a 1st gen dizzy so a J-109 must be used as a middle-man. The J-109 will provide proper dwell control and all that, and the end result is a much, much more powerful spark. It requires an extra transistor and a resistor or two...
Please leave the ignitor intact but you'll need to use the ballast resistor with your J-109 to keep it from burning out. You'll have to get creative I suppose.
Please leave the ignitor intact but you'll need to use the ballast resistor with your J-109 to keep it from burning out. You'll have to get creative I suppose.
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03-29-05, 02:05 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
That's easy. It's a condensor (capacitor) and is hooked to the common ON wire along with the B and + terminals. It's a simple bullet connector affiar. I always hook it up when I do points to electronic dizzy swaps.
03-29-05, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
2nd gen coil you say? Please do not damage the original ignitor down in the base assembly. Bypass it for now to get your engine running. I'm going to figure out a way to trigger this ignitor with a J-109 after my MegaSquirted 20B and rebuilt 13B are running. The 2nd gen ignitor is much more powerful than a J-109, but it wasn't designed to trigger from a 1st gen dizzy so a J-109 must be used as a middle-man. The J-109 will provide proper dwell control and all that, and the end result is a much, much more powerful spark. It requires an extra transistor and a resistor or two...
Please leave the ignitor intact but you'll need to use the ballast resistor with your J-109 to keep it from burning out. You'll have to get creative I suppose.
Please leave the ignitor intact but you'll need to use the ballast resistor with your J-109 to keep it from burning out. You'll have to get creative I suppose.
and btw.. thanks for all your help
03-29-05, 02:12 PM
#10
Yeah, wherever convenient. I usually Y it into the two B terminals on the ignitors up at the dizzy. Actually, I Y the two B terminals together up there as well for only one thick wire run over to the coils. There are also two thinner wires for the C terminals for a grand total of only three wires in the harness which reduces weight in a location subject to flex and vibration. Hmm, 10 guage for the B terminals and I think 18 gauge for the C terminals. The condensor wire is like 14 or 16 guage.
Oh by the way, FBs have an alternator wire (10 or 9 guage white with red tracer) in the harness. I'm sure your car has a different wire arrangement than an FB, so your harness will likely end up lighter and more flexable.
Oh by the way, FBs have an alternator wire (10 or 9 guage white with red tracer) in the harness. I'm sure your car has a different wire arrangement than an FB, so your harness will likely end up lighter and more flexable.
03-29-05, 02:21 PM
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hmm... so you y into one wire and run it to the coils and then y it back out? that would make for some clean lines... but does that affect anything?
03-29-05, 02:44 PM
#12
Not really. It's how the OEM harness is. If you wanted to run dual B wires, that's ok too. Infact certain years had dual wires and others had a single. Either way, the coil + terminals need to be connected to the on and start ignition switch wires, so as long as both coils and ignitors are electrically connected with adequately sized wires (I tend to use 10 gauge), you're ok. I also use a relay so the ignition switch doesn't have to pass as much current. My REPU's ignition switch wires would get hot after only 5 minutes of running. I installed a relay to feed the ignitors and coils battery voltage and the wires cooled way down. I was actually loosing 1 volt just in the resistance of the ancient wiring. I used the starter solenoid because the battery is under the bed (like some diesel trucks, hehe), but your car still has the engine in the bay, making adding a relay a lot easier.
03-29-05, 06:10 PM
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cool well i will take more pics when i get some extra wire.. got to wait until thursday for that.. but anyways.. if you wanna see what i did so far here are the pics..
03-29-05, 06:15 PM
#14
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okay most of the pictures are too big to uplad by like 10kb.....so there you go i attached the wires in the balast resistor clusterfuk and the attached the other end to the ignitors... if that is cool let me know.. if not tell me how i should have done it
03-30-05, 12:25 PM
#15
It looks like you're trying to keep the points harness. If you're very careful and pay attention, it ought to work. I'd build a new harness from scratch if I were you. Either way, you understand which wires are supposed to go to where, so you should be alright.
03-30-05, 04:44 PM
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yeah basically i didnt have any extra wire laying around anymore for some reason.. so i just ran it from the original wiring... does it look alright to you? i wish i could post the other pics.. but they are too big i guess
03-31-05, 03:06 AM
#17
If everything checks out on a continuity tester and there are no hidden shorts or jumped wires anywhere, it should be ok. You're getting close to the leap of faith that everyone's gotta take during a project like this. I can't be there to help you, and I've never done a points to electronic conversion on a 1st gen, so the info I've been giving you is starting to run dry just about now. Good luck.
