Ebay/SSautochrome intercooler write-up
#1
REW'd FB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WA
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ebay/SSautochrome intercooler write-up
SSautochrome intercooler install into a 1984 GSL-SE
Preliminary information:
The intercooler(IC) core that will be fitted is a 24”Lx12”Hx3”W. All other intercooler cores of this size should fit. However endtank location can alter a few of the variables while installing. This write-up will specifically discuss the install of a SSautochrome IC.
I will break the install into three sections; passenger, driver and both. In theses sections I will discuss the modifications that need to be made in order to fit the desired intercooler.
My design is used on a 1984 GSL-SE with the stock radiator, supports and no A/C. Other years, models may have differences. I do not warrant anything that you do to your car. This mod is fairly risk free but please use safety and know that this is done at your own risk.
Passenger:
The passenger side is relatively easy to modify. There is an existing slot that can be altered. The only problem is that the slot is slightly too small for the inlet to be pushed though. Please see figure 3 for a better understanding of the location. When slotting this there are a couple things that need to be taken into consideration.
You want the intercooler to sit flush against the support.
You want to make sure that the hood will still close after the intercooler is installed.
So this means that you want to slot the hole down and back. You can achieve this either by using a hole saw, cutting wheel, dremel, or whatever you feel most comfortable with. I personally used a hole saw to start however it was difficult to get the cut started. I then later resorted to using a cutting wheel which worked great. Please see figure 4 for a representation of the work that needs to be completed.
Driver:
The driver’s side support is a little more complex. However by no means is it difficult. I made the support slip over the intercooler. Since the radiator support jogs toward the center of the car it is a clear obstruction to the IC. Cuts need to be made 1.25" from the front for the support towards the intercooler. And from the back the intercooler a cut need to be made 1.75". Continue this cut vertical until you are 1" from the top(measurement should be taken at the front of the car). The shape should be a rectangle to accommodate the IC. Please see figure 5 for a visual representation.
1" top
1.5" back
1.75" front
*Please note that the front is on direct relation of the car. Meaning that front would be furthest from the cab.*
Both:
There are supports that are near the front frame. These supports are used to hold up the FMOC. If you do not have a FMOC then you do not have to worry about this. Also I believe that there were models where the Oil cooler was attached to the bottom of the radiator. Relocation is easy; however custom supports have to be made. Use a little innovation. For example the rails that sit directly below the existing mounts will work wonderfully. When the holes have been cut these supports do not allow the intercooler drop into the correct place. Take a cutting wheel and slice them off perpendicular to the ground. Make sure that you do not cut into the other support. There is no need to cut off more than is needed. See figure 6
There are also other small mounts and studs that are in the supports. These are not too much of an issue however a 10mm wrench and a couple seconds will make it easier for you not to scratch you nicely polished IC.
Oil cooler mounting:
Since you cut away your oil cooler mounts you will need to fabricate new ones. This is not too difficult. The oil cooler mounts nicely along the frame rails.
Additional supports:
There are 4 points on the intercooler which allow for supports. I hignly reccomend that such precautions are taken. If you fab up custom mounts for the FMOC you can just easily tie them into that design.
You’re done:
Now you’re done. See figure 1 for a finished product. The intercooler in the pictures is not the finished product. Since there was no intercooler wirte up such as this trial and error trimming was done. All measurements in this write-up were taken from the finished product.
I linked the pictures to a website so that people in the future do not have to worry about not having pictures.
Pictures can be seen here:
http://photobucket.com/albums/e330/z-beater/?sc=1
Preliminary information:
The intercooler(IC) core that will be fitted is a 24”Lx12”Hx3”W. All other intercooler cores of this size should fit. However endtank location can alter a few of the variables while installing. This write-up will specifically discuss the install of a SSautochrome IC.
I will break the install into three sections; passenger, driver and both. In theses sections I will discuss the modifications that need to be made in order to fit the desired intercooler.
My design is used on a 1984 GSL-SE with the stock radiator, supports and no A/C. Other years, models may have differences. I do not warrant anything that you do to your car. This mod is fairly risk free but please use safety and know that this is done at your own risk.
Passenger:
The passenger side is relatively easy to modify. There is an existing slot that can be altered. The only problem is that the slot is slightly too small for the inlet to be pushed though. Please see figure 3 for a better understanding of the location. When slotting this there are a couple things that need to be taken into consideration.
You want the intercooler to sit flush against the support.
You want to make sure that the hood will still close after the intercooler is installed.
So this means that you want to slot the hole down and back. You can achieve this either by using a hole saw, cutting wheel, dremel, or whatever you feel most comfortable with. I personally used a hole saw to start however it was difficult to get the cut started. I then later resorted to using a cutting wheel which worked great. Please see figure 4 for a representation of the work that needs to be completed.
Driver:
The driver’s side support is a little more complex. However by no means is it difficult. I made the support slip over the intercooler. Since the radiator support jogs toward the center of the car it is a clear obstruction to the IC. Cuts need to be made 1.25" from the front for the support towards the intercooler. And from the back the intercooler a cut need to be made 1.75". Continue this cut vertical until you are 1" from the top(measurement should be taken at the front of the car). The shape should be a rectangle to accommodate the IC. Please see figure 5 for a visual representation.
1" top
1.5" back
1.75" front
*Please note that the front is on direct relation of the car. Meaning that front would be furthest from the cab.*
Both:
There are supports that are near the front frame. These supports are used to hold up the FMOC. If you do not have a FMOC then you do not have to worry about this. Also I believe that there were models where the Oil cooler was attached to the bottom of the radiator. Relocation is easy; however custom supports have to be made. Use a little innovation. For example the rails that sit directly below the existing mounts will work wonderfully. When the holes have been cut these supports do not allow the intercooler drop into the correct place. Take a cutting wheel and slice them off perpendicular to the ground. Make sure that you do not cut into the other support. There is no need to cut off more than is needed. See figure 6
There are also other small mounts and studs that are in the supports. These are not too much of an issue however a 10mm wrench and a couple seconds will make it easier for you not to scratch you nicely polished IC.
Oil cooler mounting:
Since you cut away your oil cooler mounts you will need to fabricate new ones. This is not too difficult. The oil cooler mounts nicely along the frame rails.
Additional supports:
There are 4 points on the intercooler which allow for supports. I hignly reccomend that such precautions are taken. If you fab up custom mounts for the FMOC you can just easily tie them into that design.
You’re done:
Now you’re done. See figure 1 for a finished product. The intercooler in the pictures is not the finished product. Since there was no intercooler wirte up such as this trial and error trimming was done. All measurements in this write-up were taken from the finished product.
I linked the pictures to a website so that people in the future do not have to worry about not having pictures.
Pictures can be seen here:
http://photobucket.com/albums/e330/z-beater/?sc=1
#5
REW'd FB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WA
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, Let me see if I can get some on here. I still cannot load the most current photos onto my comp but I think I have one from way early in the process. It does not sit level but you will get the point.
#7
Boosted Fb
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lost!
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks man! I was not sure if it sat in front or behind the front bar. I was thinking of installing in front but afterlooking at it. I decided it would be more difficult that way.
Thanks, Ed
Thanks, Ed
Trending Topics
#10
REW'd FB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WA
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well even though this is a proven setup I am just not happy. Construction looks really nice nad clean and if you want to be sleeper all you have to do is install the cover over the IC. Wala...it is hidde.
But I really want to run the FD water pump. I am not sure if there are any performance differences but I cannot do that with my current setup. I think that I am going to run a v-mount with an aftermarket rad. I did a little test fitting this afternoon and everything seems to fit. It is just a really tight fit. When I get this done I will post some pictures.
Anyone in the NW going turbo and running this setup?
Gregs, inlet outlet are plugged. I just took the paper towels out for the photos. It looked horrible with them in there.
Thanks,
Z
Oh btw...the turbo is about the size of my head
But I really want to run the FD water pump. I am not sure if there are any performance differences but I cannot do that with my current setup. I think that I am going to run a v-mount with an aftermarket rad. I did a little test fitting this afternoon and everything seems to fit. It is just a really tight fit. When I get this done I will post some pictures.
Anyone in the NW going turbo and running this setup?
Gregs, inlet outlet are plugged. I just took the paper towels out for the photos. It looked horrible with them in there.
Thanks,
Z
Oh btw...the turbo is about the size of my head
Last edited by z-beater; 01-28-06 at 09:18 PM.
#14
REW'd FB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WA
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
V-mount and you should not have to do either. I have not llooked at it too closely though but should fit in there.
I will post a picture when I am done. It will take a little more time though than the last one because there is quite a bit more work.
I will post a picture when I am done. It will take a little more time though than the last one because there is quite a bit more work.
#16
REW'd FB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WA
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...mount+pictures
Here is what a v-mount looks like. Not a great picture but gives you an idea. Basically the rad sits at an angle and so does the IC. These angles are opposing so that air gets trapped between the two(in a sense). It is a very efficient way to cool the car.
Z
Here is what a v-mount looks like. Not a great picture but gives you an idea. Basically the rad sits at an angle and so does the IC. These angles are opposing so that air gets trapped between the two(in a sense). It is a very efficient way to cool the car.
Z
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ls1swap
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
12
10-01-15 07:58 PM
MILOS7
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
0
09-18-15 03:39 PM