Dyno sheets? 12a
10-07-02, 06:56 AM
#4
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i asked the same question a lil while back
and here is the sheet that was posted to me
(thanks to who ever sent it)
i cant remeber what mod's this one had,
and here is the sheet that was posted to me
(thanks to who ever sent it)
i cant remeber what mod's this one had,
10-07-02, 05:46 PM
#7
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First, its rare to dyno the engine unless you are at the real top end of the market or doing research as on Paul Yaw's site. Most dyno are rear wheel with up to 20% drop in hp. 92 rwhp as above is better than your average 12A where 80-85rwhp would measured.
Second, as I gave on the other thread, the New Mazda guide shows the official power curve for the 12A engine stand alone with top 101hp.
If you are interested in modified performance with the Nikki, then look at Yaw on the performance vendor sticky as he has curves for both stock and street port.
A real problem is the typical tuner's dyno is never accurate, you can get plus 20% or minus 10% difference between them. Perhaps the cheapest way of getting power is to shop around till you find the most optomistic machine!
Second, as I gave on the other thread, the New Mazda guide shows the official power curve for the 12A engine stand alone with top 101hp.
If you are interested in modified performance with the Nikki, then look at Yaw on the performance vendor sticky as he has curves for both stock and street port.
A real problem is the typical tuner's dyno is never accurate, you can get plus 20% or minus 10% difference between them. Perhaps the cheapest way of getting power is to shop around till you find the most optomistic machine!
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10-07-02, 06:17 PM
#8
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Originally posted by Paul Fitzwarryne
A real problem is the typical tuner's dyno is never accurate, you can get plus 20% or minus 10% difference between them. Perhaps the cheapest way of getting power is to shop around till you find the most optomistic machine!
A real problem is the typical tuner's dyno is never accurate, you can get plus 20% or minus 10% difference between them. Perhaps the cheapest way of getting power is to shop around till you find the most optomistic machine!
So true.
10-10-02, 07:32 AM
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
some of the goodies i have, a 12a bridge, with my race seals, a halltech F9 custom intake, innovative turbo, c16 race gas, and 27 psi at the time of the pull..soon to be going back to the dyno! www.rotaryshack/dyno
10-10-02, 07:38 AM
#10
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
sorry bad link... try this one www.rotaryshack.com/dyno
10-10-02, 08:46 AM
#11
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What about the air flow dynamics of the FB or SA? It's been asked by a few members, but it seems no one has on that they could post on the net. I know I and others would be very greatful if someone can get their hands on one and post it up here. *hint* 
Some have suggested looking at the 2nd gen air flow properties...but it just isn't the same.
-Error402
Some have suggested looking at the 2nd gen air flow properties...but it just isn't the same.
-Error402
10-10-02, 03:39 PM
#12
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dyno
No sheet for you, but a fellow racer got 104rwhp with the following:
* K&N filter
* high flo single cat, 2.5" staright pipe afterwards
* stock exhaust manifold, intake manifold
* stock carb, not rejetted
* Carter fuel pump, Carter reg set to 1.7psi (stock is ~3)
* MSD coils, RB wires
He would not divulge what plugs or igntion timing he was using. I suspect neither were stock.
This was a fresh motor, hand built for racing (but still stock).
* K&N filter
* high flo single cat, 2.5" staright pipe afterwards
* stock exhaust manifold, intake manifold
* stock carb, not rejetted
* Carter fuel pump, Carter reg set to 1.7psi (stock is ~3)
* MSD coils, RB wires
He would not divulge what plugs or igntion timing he was using. I suspect neither were stock.
This was a fresh motor, hand built for racing (but still stock).
10-10-02, 06:59 PM
#13
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From May 2002...
Originally posted in "An Interesting Firstgen Adventure" prior to the car's demise
and then, the runs...
The first run at 3.5 lbs. fuel pressure vs. 4.5 lbs. fuel pressure proving, once and for all, how critical even a pound of pressure can be...the rex started popping at 7200 RPM and he backed off...all pulls besides that one were to 7500 RPM with no problems...I was shifting at 7800 RPM, sometimes 8100 RPM, at the track, where, sadly, I was only getting through two gears before the 1/8th was up...definitely need at least 4.33's if I want to be serious about 1/8th mile racing...
This is max pull vs. first pull, both at 3.5 lbs. fuel pressure, no changes whatsoever from the track day...Interestingly, a run in the TCJC parking lot last year with a G-Tech indicated 125 HP, which I assumed meant flywheel...
The 113 HP with a 20 HP loss through the drive-train (is that being too generous?? ) would indicate 133 HP at the flywheel. I personally attribute the jump from last year's G-Tech reading to MMO which I only started using for the past three months. A calculator I used that peejay gave us some time ago told me I was using 96 HP at the track. It also said this was a 17.2 sec car in the quarter. It could've been a 16.85 car with one of my razor launches and the things I know now to do stop the bogging. Next Sunday, I hit that same TCJC parking lot for another G-Tech run to see what it reads now. Then, I'll finally change the oil and plugs which are both long overdue.
The car was totaled the following week...
The sig below has the engine details...
Originally posted in "An Interesting Firstgen Adventure" prior to the car's demise
and then, the runs...
The first run at 3.5 lbs. fuel pressure vs. 4.5 lbs. fuel pressure proving, once and for all, how critical even a pound of pressure can be...the rex started popping at 7200 RPM and he backed off...all pulls besides that one were to 7500 RPM with no problems...I was shifting at 7800 RPM, sometimes 8100 RPM, at the track, where, sadly, I was only getting through two gears before the 1/8th was up...definitely need at least 4.33's if I want to be serious about 1/8th mile racing...
This is max pull vs. first pull, both at 3.5 lbs. fuel pressure, no changes whatsoever from the track day...Interestingly, a run in the TCJC parking lot last year with a G-Tech indicated 125 HP, which I assumed meant flywheel...
The 113 HP with a 20 HP loss through the drive-train (is that being too generous??
) would indicate 133 HP at the flywheel. I personally attribute the jump from last year's G-Tech reading to MMO which I only started using for the past three months. A calculator I used that peejay gave us some time ago told me I was using 96 HP at the track. It also said this was a 17.2 sec car in the quarter. It could've been a 16.85 car with one of my razor launches and the things I know now to do stop the bogging. Next Sunday, I hit that same TCJC parking lot for another G-Tech run to see what it reads now. Then, I'll finally change the oil and plugs which are both long overdue.The car was totaled the following week...
The sig below has the engine details...
Last edited by mar3; 10-10-02 at 07:03 PM.
10-10-02, 07:30 PM
#14
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally posted by 680RWHP12A
sorry bad link... try this one www.rotaryshack.com/dyno
sorry bad link... try this one www.rotaryshack.com/dyno
10-10-02, 07:47 PM
#15
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Originally posted by peejay
Why does that say "ACTUAL" horsepower and you claim it's wheel horsepower?
Why does that say "ACTUAL" horsepower and you claim it's wheel horsepower?
It has to be wheel horsepower, the dynometer used was a dynojet model 248, which is a chasis dyno.
10-10-02, 11:16 PM
#16
Old [Sch|F]ool
Some people automatically convert by adding 15%, 20%, or 25% to the Dynojet readings to calculate brake horsepower (horsepower at flywheel)
I don't trust anything except an engine dyno to provide HP figures. Chassis dynos are too easy to fool, especially inertial dynos.
I don't trust anything except an engine dyno to provide HP figures. Chassis dynos are too easy to fool, especially inertial dynos.
10-11-02, 01:19 AM
#17
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Tired 12A with Spy Hunter smoke-blowing function on startup and deceleration under load, 12A carb of some type, RX-3 Air Cleaner, Holley Blue Fuel Pump & Regulator, SX Fuel Filter, 87 octane.
Red & Blue Runs: Racing Beat "Street Port" exhaust system (long primary collected prior to muffler). 102.6 hp, 96.4 lbs-ft.
Green Run: Racing Beat uncollected header with SPiN Racing long primary exhaust system collected at the muffler. 100.6 hp, 100.6 lbs-ft.
100hp - If you're scared, say you're scared. LOL
Red & Blue Runs: Racing Beat "Street Port" exhaust system (long primary collected prior to muffler). 102.6 hp, 96.4 lbs-ft.
Green Run: Racing Beat uncollected header with SPiN Racing long primary exhaust system collected at the muffler. 100.6 hp, 100.6 lbs-ft.
100hp - If you're scared, say you're scared. LOL
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