craigw1

s5 tii motor (ex turbo)
street port
weber 48 ida
rb header and 'street' system
850 miles since rebuild

first run was a base run, second run got slightly higher results after adjusting the timing. Never touched the jets (no spare ones handy)

so...117kw (157hp) at the wheels is not shooting the lights out. But its no poor result either. It is quite driveable as a daily driver and the power band comes in nice and early...from 3500 onwards. We peaked the test at 7,500 in third. At that point the dyno was reading 138kmh (86mph)

craigw1

assuming a 17% loss of power thru drivetrain, it was reading approx 141kw (190hp) at the flywheel

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

You said it used to be a TII motor, are you still running the low comp rotors, or did you replace them with N/A rotors?

Because if they're still low comp, think of how much hp you could be making if you had N/A rotors in there !

Jon

Jozay721

what is the wheels hp/and hp for a stock first gen, and how much do u think i havein mine if i have a kand n filter, noa/c, no p/s(ofcourse) headers,highflow cat, rb power pulse muffler, blaster 2 coils, ngk spark plugs and mech secondaries?if anyone knows please tell me. my friends ask me how much wheel hp i have and how much stock and idk. so thanks for the info anywys,thanks.

craigw1

Jon

yeah, still tii rotors in there - 9.0 compression.

from the manuals the n/a rotors have 9.7 compression

just as an idea, what sort of hp do you think those rotors would yield ?

do you think like +10% or more significant, at like +20% ?

craigw1

just had a look thru the manuals

stock tii is 200hp at the flywheel. stock s5 na is 160hp at the flywheel

assuming 17% drivetrain loss, the tii comes in at 166rwhp and the s5 na at 133rwhp

i'm at 157rwhp...so significantly better than a stock s5na and less than 10hp shorter than a stock tii, which i think is impressive considering i'm ex the turbo !

rotor vs. piston

what gears do you have to only be doing ~86mph in 3rd at 7500?

Blake

Just as a point of reference, my old S5 NA (GTU-S) dyno'd bone stock at 123 HP at the wheels on a Dynojet. With a cold air intake, it made 124 HP. With a downpipe and presilencer, it made 147.3 HP on a Mustang Dyno. Stock cat-back, stock exhaust manifold, stock 6-ports, stock EFI, etc. Torque was dead flat.



I am not one of those people who subscribe to the tenuous theory of a fixed driveline loss. Lower HP cars lose a higher percentage; high HP cars lose a lower percentage. And every car is unique unto itself. Still, it's not bad to guestimate that way, but don't go putting any faith in the results. Rear wheel power is the only kind you can use, so it's usually better not to work backwards. Far better to find out (from actual tests) what the stock vehicle did at the rear wheels and compare to that, instead of extrapolating a fuzzy guess at how they compare at the FW. Just my $0.02.

BlastinSideways12A

Believe it or not, the high compression rotors won't do THAT much for overall power if the engine is tuned properly in both cases. Likely around 5%. They will, however help out with fuel economy and drivability. The reason for this is that if you have lower compression rotors, you can run more ignition advance at WOT, producing a bit of extra power, making up for the lower compression. At part throttle, your timing will be hardly changed, if at all so you will notice a benefit from higher compression. Again, this is assuming that you are using a full standalone with timing control and exerting a great deal of time and detail to tuning your ignition timing and fuel maps using at minimum a wideband and an EGT sensor for each rotor. For a carb and distributor setup, you may notice a greater benefit with the higher comp rotors.

JKM

Just for a comparison...

My GSLSE is mostly stock, just intake and the cats replaced with a straight pipe. It puts down 125 RWHP. So, you've got me beat by a bit, and my car is a little more powerful than most GSLSEs, and quite a bit more than the 12a stock first gen.

Here is my dyno:

84stock

iTrader: (5)

I think you have a great setup, and with those rotors you're ok. At least you have the option of adding a turbo someday. I run the same rotors and 6 port housing with my camden in my 85SE http://media.putfile.com/compilation2-57 , I have a smilar hp curve but a much better torque curve. Stick with what you've got and build from there year by year, first standalone and efi one year. Then stock turbo the next. Then upgrade the turbo the next. Every winter I do something, my budget is $1000 or so per year. This winter will bring about bridgeporting http://media.putfile.com/short-bridge and a small shot of nitrous. So far I've accumulated 4 different carbs and still want another as well, they all have different characteristics. 3 holleys, 1 demon and an edlebrock. I want to find an old school big spreadbore carter to rebuild and modify.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Attached is codeblues camden dyno running efi and standalone, this is probably about the best I'll be able to achieve unitl I bridgeport mine. My mustang dyno sheet is also attached but this was from last year, many changes since and expect better results if I test it this year.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Last years dyno had conservative timing and boost and less carb than I run now. I am much stronger above 500 than last year where i started to fall off. You see codeblues climbs steadily and that is where the standalone and unlimited fuel makes a difference. I can throw on my holley 850 and she moves great on top end and throttle response but you lose on economy and cruise. Since the throttle is barely open when cruising I have to enrich the idle circuit to keep things smooth. My smaller edelbrock (used on last years dyno) is by far the most streetable and economical carb but everything has some drawbacks.

Jozay721

wow:o what do u have done to ur 79 that its putting out 210hp??

84stock

iTrader: (5)

That's not my 79. It is codeblues who has since gone turbo and pushing out over 300. Its was 4 port 13b with a 7" camden

craigw1

is 86mph in 3rd slow ? anyways, thats what the dyno printout said.

its a tii box with custom driveshaft and original 12A diff

rotor vs. piston

I think so. Granted we don't have the same gears, but close, in third I'd top out around 100mph at 7200rpm with my 4.09 -SE rear. But then too, I have 225-50-16's on the rear which helps.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

size of your venturies, main, air and e-tube??

84stock

iTrader: (5)

tell me which air cleaner of the 2 posted here you think will flow better, you may be surprised.

craigw1

wackyracer, i think you hit it on the head here

you'll see i started a seperate thread about the jettings.

the engine builder, another tuner and myself debated some charts today along with the base run we did yesterday

the jetting is currently as follows :

200 main, 150 air and F11 emulsion tube
also, 36mm choke

our first collective comment was that we should increase the choke to 38mm
then secondly, a reduction in main jet to say 160 and an increase in air jet to say 190

what are your thoughts on this ?

thanks

Jozay721

the one with the big nose filter??

84stock

iTrader: (5)

any more takers??

84stock

iTrader: (5)

the cone has a 4" intake on it

84stock

iTrader: (5)

The big cone and carb hat has the least flow

Jozay721

wow, interesting, so ur saying the racing beat 360 open air clleaner would be better than a cold air intake?